[justincampbell]

So I've already posted a few threads trying to get a more precise direction for restoring the '73 Ram Air Formula that I just purchased. As I was sorting through some parts a couple days ago, I found my self in a new debate.
The question I am wrestling with is this: Is it a waste of money to buy NOS parts that will inevitably become dull/dinged/scuffed on a car that actually gets driven? I am thinking of things like wheel opening moldings, rocker moldings, center caps, park light lenses, and so on.

Initially I was of the mindset that this car absolutely deserved any NOS parts that I could get my hands on. But then I began thinking about the inevitability of things like sand on the roadway dulling the finish of my moldings, gravel on the roadway at country intersections or near work areas, debris off the tires of a passing trucks, etc.

[Chief of the 60's]

Is this going to be a daily driver? If not, how many miles do you figure you're going to put on a year? Most people I know that "drive" their car usually put on no more than 1500-2000 miles per year. I personally put on under 1000 miles. That is not much and will not be much concern on NOS/GM parts. It generally takes 30,000 to 50,000 to sandblast lower parts. At 2000 miles per year it will take 15 years to reach the 30,000 mile mark.

[77 Canamman]

Use the nOS parts. This car certainly deserves it.

[Bentwheelbob]

I think it depends on a part by part basis, and on the size of your bank account. I used a lot of NOS parts on my Formula, but more than a few repro parts are also present.

On the specific parts you listed I would go repro on the lenses. The moldings are a tougher call. NOS is certainly better, but you will likely need to pay to have the NOS polished which will drive an expensive choice even higher. Most molding that has been around for 20 to 40 years is going to have plenty of "shelf" wear. on the center caps I'd do NOS on Rally II's and repro on honeycombs.

[justincampbell]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Is this going to be a daily driver? If not, how many miles do you figure you're going to put on a year? Most people I know that "drive" their car usually put on no more than 1500-2000 miles per year. I personally put on under 1000 miles. That is not much and will not be much concern on NOS/GM parts. It generally takes 30,000 to 50,000 to sandblast lower parts. At 2000 miles per year it will take 15 years to reach the 30,000 mile mark.

Definitely not a daily driver. However, I do hope to drive it 5k or 6k a year.

[justincampbell]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

On the specific parts you listed I would go repro on the lenses. The moldings are a tougher call. NOS is certainly better, but you will likely need to pay to have the NOS polished which will drive an expensive choice even higher. Most molding that has been around for 20 to 40 years is going to have plenty of "shelf" wear. on the center caps I'd do NOS on Rally II's and repro on honeycombs.

That brings me to another question. How many of the repro parts are worth a darn?

When I redid my '56 Chevy the repro parts were nearly all junk(with regard to fit). When we restored a '72 Cutlass 15 years ago, the few repro pieces I got for it were mediocre at best.

[Chief of the 60's]

It also depends on the quality of the restoration. I am not saying you will, but I have seen guys do halfass washboard restorations and waste NOS parts on them. I will not even sell a NOS part to people like that. I am not saying that NOS parts should only be for the top high end restored cars, but they certainly deserve better than a Dulpi-Color paint job. If it were me, I would go NOS all the way.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

If it were me, I would go NOS all the way.

What about glass, upholstery, hoses, kick panels, gauge lens, wiring harnesses, brake, fuel and vapor lines, tires, correct style front valance, tie rods, cowl seal, et cetera?

Just trying to point out that you can’t go all the “way”. You can go a a large percentage of the way, but in my opinion you need to be smart about where that really pays off., and where it is reasonably possible. In the day and age of the internet, you can easily figure out what repro parts are good and which ones suck.

Whichever way you go you will be upside down financially, but have a car you love. My recommendation is to be judicious and end up less upside down. Whichever way you go, best of luck and I hope you have a lot of fun during the journey.

[dataway]

I was going in the NOS direction, then I realized that with my very common optioned 68 GTO it was a waste to spring for the BIG dollar NOS stuff. It would do absolutely nothing to enhance the value of the car, except to me.
My go-to now is just nice used stuff. With patience you can find some really nice used parts for a small fraction of NOS. Reproduction is usually my last option.

I'd rather have a good used part that is a "7" on the scale than a repro part that appears to be a "10" at a glance. It's more about keeping it Detroit to me, than about the perfection of the appearance.

When it comes to things like a $4,000 carb ... yeah, I'll find something as close as I can for $400. I save my NOS purchases for things like radio knobs, window cranks, hose clamps, mechanical parts ... you know, that stuff that doesn't cost a fortune but is so cool to have a brand new original part.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

What about glass, upholstery, hoses, kick panels, gauge lens, wiring harnesses, brake, fuel and vapor lines, tires, correct style front valance, tie rods, cowl seal, et cetera?

Actually, there is a fair amount of those items out there. Some of it, like wire harness, instrument cluster lens and both kick panels, I sold at Norwalk in back in August.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by dataway

I'd rather have a good used part that is a "7" on the scale than a repro part.

Smart move

[PurelyGTO68]

I am working on a fairly rare car and am using some NOS parts but also purchased a ton of stuff from Ames.....maybe $24k worth?

If I tried to use all NOS parts, the car would never get driven again. It would just sit in a corner with a pile of parts and every once in a while a new box would get added to the collection.

My project will run and drive someday, with reproduction parts if necessary. I may consider changing out some parts later if/when good NOS parts come available.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[justincampbell]

The parts I am pretty certain I will need so far are wheel opening moldings, tail light bezels or possibly assemblies, rear bumper, plastic tail panel, headlight bezels.
Anybody with experience want to chime in regarding quality or lack thereof with these repro parts?

[MUSLCAH]

Put all the NOS stuff on a shelf ......and just admire it. Or save it for the next one that will just be on display in your garage..... lots of fun there .....I like the drivers over the ones that you have to lose sleep ovah ...

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by justincampbell

The parts I am pretty certain I will need so far are wheel opening moldings, tail light bezels or possibly assemblies, rear bumper, plastic tail panel, headlight bezels.
Anybody with experience want to chime in regarding quality or lack thereof with these repro parts?

Repop wheel opening mouldings generally do not fit.

Repop tail lamp bezels are shinier but do not have chrisp edges like NOS. NOS is production chrome not show chrome as GM did not build show cars.

NOS headlamp bezels generally are full of flaws but fit well. Again, GM was not in the show car business.

Bumpers I can only speak about repops for GTO's and those should only be used on daily drivers. It is best to get yours rechromed as NOS are difficult to come across.

Plastic rear panel - It is plastic. Should be some nice used GM pieces out there.

[justincampbell]

That actually spurs another question. Is there someplace that does re-chroming that is NOT show chrome? I have an old Chevelle shifter that I have been tinkering with and the handle needs replated. I called several places and they all went on about show chrome. When I said I did not want show chrome because I was trying to accurately replicate the factory chrome, they didn't have any idea what to say. I know I can't be the only person who has ever wanted it done this way.

[Bentwheelbob]

This is a Firebird, not a GTO.

Buy NOS wheel opening moldings if you can find them, but have them shipped to your polishing guy because they will need it.

Buy repop tail and headlamp bezels.

The repro bumpers are great for early 2nd gen Fbody cars. I wouldn’t hesitate a minute, but if you have a good core and three times the money I would get an original rechromed.

Rear filler panel - buy NOS or the best original you can find. The repro’s suck and wil cost you more in fitment labor.

You should be posting this in the ‘70 - ‘73 Fbody section. You need model specific knowledge, not general knowledge.

Good luck.

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

This is a Firebird, not a GTO.

Whatever Sherlock. I have and have had NOS parts for that car. Do you?

[68 461 Bird]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

This is a Firebird, not a GTO.

What does that have to do with his questions?

[64speed]

I think the quality of the aftermarket piece comes from the vendor. I have never had a problem with Ames. NOD OPG ALL THOSE ARE PRETTY GOOD. The Parts Place etc. not so much. If you want just good GM chrome I have heard that Keystone is hard to beat. I called them just this week and got a quote of 620 a piece for the front and rear of my Tempest with no shipping charge. Just drop them off at your nearest LKQ. Can’t beat that.