[Alvin]

Naturally one should ALWAYS use any/all PY parts and services 1st.

For your specialty needs on this subject, (Wheel Molding Restroration) you may find this information helpfull:

I just received the 12/2006 issue of High Performance Pontiac in the mail (9/2006). Check out page 76 for the "All That Shines" Pontiac Tech article. HPP should have a link to the article soon on their website: www.highperformancepontiac.com.

The tech article is performed by: Metal Polishing and Refinishing Big Sandy TX (903) 734-3802 They charge $15 per ft to refinish and polish.

There are two other sources also mentioned at the end of the article.

I am planning on sending my 73 GA moldings in for restoration. The $15 per ft is cheap compared to my time doing the same and not coming up with the same results. BTW - I need (1) rt side (passenger front) wheel molding. The one I have is 3/4 there, but Grandma cliped the lower front edge and tore it off years ago. Not noticeable from a distance. If you have one that has the usual dings and dents that would be great. Then I can send them all in for restoration at the same time.

Thanks in advance.

[Grand73Am]

Alvin, so do they show how to repair dents in a wheel opening molding? It would be interesting to see how they do it.
I think my subscription ran out, so I may have to look for a copy at the book store. Thanks.

[Alvin]

Grand73Am - Yup, they do show you how to do it.

For some of the items they recommend try this link: http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-1775981-42499

Look for the internet coverage to be covered within the month.

[Grand73Am]

That's great. I've done alot of stainless and aluminum resto before, so I have the equipment and materials. Eastwood is a good source for buffing stuff, and I've bought alot from them. I particularly like their "expander wheel" and Trizact sanding belts for sanding the metal. I get my compounds elsewhere though. Here's a good site for buffing instruction and materials too: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

I just haven't worked on WOM's yet and I've collected some used ones to do. I had been wondering how I would get inside the moldings to push out dents, so this article may shed some light on doing that.
So, thanks alot for mentioning the article or I may not have seen it!

[77 Canamman]

Wouldn't these mouldings as found on a '73-'77 car need to be re-anodized after the necessary ding repairs?

[Alvin]

Grand73Am, yes they show some simple hand tools, picks, punches, sanding tools and technics to get into the tight places just like the WOM's. Once you see the article it will be clear to you. Do you have a right front one? I could use one.

77Can Am - yes, they use Zoop Seal after the final polishing to protect the finish. I have seen this sealer advertised here: http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-1775981-42499

[77 Canamman]

I am curious to see if the repaired mouldings with the Eastwood product looks the same or close to the factory brite-dip anodized mouldings.

As expensive and rare as the NOS parts are, repairing them is sometimes the only option.

[Alvin]

The article talks about the freshly polished look not matching the factory look until the Zoop Treatment which looks closer to the OEM - per HPP.

BTW - I checked their website and as ususal, they are slightly behind on their latest issue posting, but I'm sure I'll follow. Check out your local Barnes & Noble!

[Grand73Am]

Luckily for me, it turns out my magazines are still coming and mine arrived today, so that's good timing. I look forward to the read.

As for anodizing, it's true that buffed aluminum will look somewhat different from the factory "brite dipped" anodized trim. The buffed trim will be shinier, with a higher reflection.

It would be better if they were re-anodized, since the anodizing protects the aluminum, reducing maintenance and they look factory that way. I have used www.anobrite.com to have trim re-anodized. The trim has to be repaired and buffed out perfectly to get a perfect result though. The anodizing will magnify any scratches or pits that you don't remove. I found that out early on when I sent some that I buffed out to them for the anodizing and those flaws I missed really stood out. I did better the next time after realizing what it took to get a good result . You can let them do the complete restoration of the trim to make sure it's done right the first time. It's expensive but it will look like new.

But, the trim looks great with just a buffing job too. And it looks good that way even if you don't get it buffed perfectly, unlike with re-anodizing. And is much cheaper and less trouble to just buff it and seal it. The Zoops Seal is a metal polish that seals the buffed trim to protect it from dulling. There are other similar products. Metal Majic has some that I've used. I've had some bare aluminum trim I buffed on one of my cars for a few years and, surprisingly, it continues to shine nicely. The buffed trim may not look original when compared next to anodized trim, but on something like WOM's, the difference wouldn't be very noticeable.

[77 Canamman]

Thanks for the explanation.