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#1
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M-20 Muncie
Wondering if any of you guys changed shift rods / pit pack bushings while trans still in the car. Mine started shifting a little harder the other day, usually from 3-2, shifts perfect if just testing while motor is off.........thought i would add a little gear lube just in case its low.
Thought maybe i could change out all the bushings on the rods, man thats tight in there, hate to pull the transmission just to change these out. Maybe i need to get the car on a lift to see if this is possible while in the car............the car is a 66 gto, let me know if you guys have done it this way. Rich |
#2
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Shouldn't be a issue but if you find it too tight drop the shifter, rods an all.
Frank
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Poncho Huggen, Gear Snatchen, Posi Piro. |
#3
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Ok, not getting much action here, lets try a different approach, put more GL4 lube in, wasnt much..........for whatever reason car isnt shifting like before........trans was rebuilt about 6 years ago, always shifted ok...........so im wondering if i have a shifter problem or a clutch problem. With car off, and no clutch shifting is pretty much great, every now and then it hangs up in a gear............with the motor running and using the clutch 1-2 is good, 2-3 is tough, which is odd because for the last 5 or so years i never missed a 2-3 shift.
When i start the car and try to put in reverse i sometimes get a clunk/grind noise, this is starting the car in netural then going to reverse. So as of right now, seems like im having issues going from 3rd to 2nd, other than that not too bad. Any suggestions on what to try next. Rich Rich |
#4
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If your clutch tends to be grabbing near the top of the pedal travel, you can try adjusting the clutch rod...(to the fork), or it's your clutch.
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#5
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It sounds like your clutch is not fully disengaging. Where does it release? Near the top or at the floor? If it's real close to the floor it may not be fully disengaging and that might cause the problem you are describing.
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#6
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Hey thanks George..........im gonna give that a try, the clutch is a CF, not that many miles on it..........checking on how to do the clutch adjustment, oh boy, talk about being in no mans land. lol
To tell the truth , im thinking maybe its time for this old boy to just switch over to a auto, shifting the car at my age is just getting old. Rich |
#7
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But bascially the car shifts without issues if i press the clutch in a couple inches or all the way to the floor............well that is what it use to do. So im not sure what my problem / issue is Rich |
#8
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If its hard to get into gear its most likely worn syncro rings, if its hard to get out of gear then most likely its worn shift forks. If you drive the car regularly then six years
sounds about right for syncro and shift fork replacement. |
#9
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GTO Rich...to determine exactly where the clutch is catching just put the car in gear with the clutch all the way down...then very slowly(no gas pedal)let the clutch pedal up...you'll be able to tell when and where it starts grabbing. let us know what you find.
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#10
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Thanks for the help boys Rich |
#11
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#12
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Will look into sweet talking my wife into this job..........wont be the first time she"s worked on the car............im sure she will jump right on it. lol......her hands are smaller, should be easy. Rich |
#13
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Another test i did today, from Jodys Transmissions, get car warm, stop and let the car idle for 10 seconds then put in reverse, shouldnt be any noise...........did this a few times, sometimes in grinded a little other times not...........if i pushed the clutch all the way to the floor really hard it only did it once or twice in about 7-8 tries...........But if i put in 1st first, then tried reverse it when in most all the time. When checking the clutch pedal in car it sits about 6 inches from floor, i push the pedal untill i feel a slight resistance its about 4 1/2 from the floor. So now i have to figure what way to turn what to get the clutch pedal to grab up much higher, dont want to wear out my old knees pushing that thing to the floor all the time. lol So where im at now, if trying to put the shifter from 3-2 if it doesnt go in right away, i just push the clutch in again and it seems to work that way. Sorry for the long post, just hard to explain in a few sentences. Rich Rich |
#14
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Gtorich...that sounds like what I expected you would find. The adjustment you need to make is to "lengthen" the adjustment rod. This will bring the engagement of the clutch further from the floor. You may need to try a couple of times to get it right. Good luck, I think this will solve your problem.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gtospieg For This Useful Post: | ||
#15
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Also plan to take out the nylon bushing in the shifter rods........might as well do everything and see what happens. Thanks again guys for the help Rich |
#16
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Gtorich...no problem, glad to help. Let us know how it works out.
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#17
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I'm in the habit of quickly going 1st to reverse with 4 speeds to avoid gear clash. I also find myself going from 4th to 2nd and straight up to first if I'm sitting at a light. It slows the rotation and makes a smoother transition. Good that your using GL4 oil. Synthetics can be too slick and cause grinding.
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#18
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#19
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Worn shift rod bushings not only affect the feel of the shifter, they can reduce the actual rotation of the shift levers on the trans as the shifter has to "takeup the slack" before actually moving the shift levers. Deoending on where the "overshift" stop is set, you may not get full mesh of the gears.
Reverse has no synchro so a slight "snick" is typical when going directly to reverse. "Double clutching" (shift to 1st or 2nd, back to neutral, release the clutch, then depress the clutch again and shift into reverse. allows the non-synchro gears to equalize their rotational speed prior to engaging.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#20
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Ok guys, got it up on the jack stands.........as usual new problem.....Noticed when pushing in the clutch the clutch rod doesnt move straight back and forth, cleaned up some by the Z bar and noticed the nut on the end was loose..........motor was too hot to do anything more, but if you look at the pics it seems that nut is kind of bent, wondering if i broke anything in there....i take it this nut goes on the Frame Ball Stud...R-167F in the ames book. Do i crank this puppy pretty tight...........im gonna clean it up good tomorrow and see whats is going on there.
Any suggestions as in just buy a new ball stud. Rich |
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