[64speed]

First off is the drip rail molding even reproduced for a 64 Tempest? If it is how do you get it off. If it’s not is it best to have it reanodized or chromed and how do you reattach it?

[Jerry H.]

1. Should be the same as for the 64-5 GTO. To take the old one off, obtain an old style bottle opener, the one that has a 'sharp' opener on one end to punch holes into cans and a 'flat' opener on the other end to open bottles. Wrap the flat end with black electrical tape to the point it firms up when attaching against the molding. Then 'open' up the molding and it will come off. Do about 6" sections at a time until you get to the end.

I know this sounds confusing, maybe someone else can describe it better for you. Forget trying to reanodize this piece, it's too fragile. Be very careful when reinstalling. Do NOT bang it on with your palm or you will end up with big dents in the molding.

[Greg Reid]

The only thing I would add to Jerry's description is that you are 'opening' the bottom side, not the top.
Also, his tip about doing just a few inches at a time is important. Loosen the entire bottom before you start actually pulling it off the top where it's hooked over the gutter.
If you start pulling it completely free before you get to the end, it will curl up.
Also, don't forget to remove that little corner piece at the top of the windshield first.

[dhutton]

You will dent it with a bottle opener imho. If you get under the lower edge with a putty knife it can be removed without damage. Patience is the key...

Don

[Greg Reid]

What Jerry is describing with the bottle opener is the same thing as you're describing dhutton. You just catch the bottom edge and ease it outward a little at a time. I use a brake adjusting tool myself. Same as the bottle opener, ie. using the angle to your advantage.

[dhutton]

I don’t think so. A bottle opener will dent it due to the contact and pressure on the outside surface. I am saying getting under the bottom edge with a putty knife. No exposure to the outside surface and hence no damage.

Sorry if I misunderstood.

Don

[Greg Reid]

D'ffrnt strokes I guess.

[64speed]

So if I dont reanodize it do I have it chromed or what? If its that fragile I would be afraid to ship it.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Should be stainless that can be polished,

[Jerry H.]

In my reply I was assuming you were going to simply take off your old molding and install new reproduction molding for a GTO. Since the molding are so fragile it is very, very hard to take one off without making it unusable.

If I were planning on using the current molding that is already on the car, I would strip the anodizing off with some oven cleaner or the like (google is your friend) then sand and polish on the car. Then I would spray them with some clear lacquer or the like and repeat the process every year or so to keep them shiny.

[400 4spd.]

Ames, Year One, NPD, OPGI ship them every day. If you want to keep it simple, order new ones and tear the old ones off. I put a reproduction set on a '64 and they fit well and look like originals.

Requires no brain science or rocket surgery.....................

[64speed]

I called Ames and they sell the moldings but they are out of stock and don’t know when they will be back in. When it gets closer to final assembly I will hopefully be able to get them from Ames then I can just pull mine off without worrying about damaging them. I’ll let the body man worry about reinstalling them after paint

[dhutton]

I always try to remove moldings intact without damage. I am not always successful but it is great practice and a good skill to possess.

Don

[NeighborsComplaint]

If Ames is out when you need them, check eBay. Many sources have them.

[cabhop]

Use a block of wood (2x4) and a mallet and tap outward from below. There is a small lip on the bottom that the block will catch on. slowly work the pieces off. I ruined a set on a chevelle 20 years ago with a bottle opener...