[scott-462]

As the title implies, this is for a 70 lemans sport, stock weight. It has global west 1.5 inch drop springs, unknown tubular control arms, and soon to be new shocks and sway bars. Right now, i need to get an alignment after the new suspension install and i know increased negative camber in the front will increase cornering grip at the cost of increased inner tire wear. Any thoughts or suggestions on suspension setup to make this thing corner better? Excluding tires and top shelf shocks, just mainly a question on camber, toe, caster..

[Blued and Painted]

The key is in the sway bars. 1 1/4" front with urethane link and mounting bushings and minimum of a 7/8" rear bar.
There is not a huge amount of adjustment with stocks control arms.
I would shoot for 1/2 degree negative camber. Don't go over 3/4 negative.
2 to 2 1/2 degrees positive Caster If you can get it, for quick returnability.
Toe-in depends on the negative camber. 1/8" total toe-in for negative 1/2 degree camber. As much as 1/4" total toe-in for negative 3/4 camber.

Let it be written, let it be done.

[scott-462]

There tubular control arms, not sure about adjust-ability. I was assuming more like atleast -1.5 degrees negative camber in the front..? If not between 2-3 degrees... I know this isnt exactly a race car, but their negative camber is very apparent just by looking at them.

[Blued and Painted]

Two degrees in at the top is visually noticeable.
Lookat ho428's road race car. Dont think he is running anywhere near -2.
The opposite wheel would be pushing the wrong direction.
Check Post one, pic one.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=wheels

[ho428]

I do run about 1.5-2 degrees negative Camber, still isn't enough at some tracks but I can't fit anymore shims in on the drivers side.
Generally the tires still wear more on the outside due to cornering weight bias. When I check temps the inner is hotter, but the wear pattern is outside. I'll run the tires a few races and do an inside out flip on the rims and switch L-R sides.

I run the toe neutral to 1/16 in but I'm still searching for the optimal setting on that. Since I went to 275-35's on the front she tends to wander more.
I can't recall the Caster setting, but I did the guldstrand mod on mine using modified stock A-arms.

This is strickly a track car though, I wouldn't run those camber settings on the street.

I have a better pic somewhere that shows how far they lean in. From the front it's very noticable. From the back angle it doesn't look like near as much.

[scott-462]

Awesome car ho428. Drag racing is cool, but only last 10-12 seconds. I would love to autoX my car sometime after its ready. As long as theres sandpits on the corners, no way i'm risking hitting a wall and totaling my car. So only -1.5 to -2 degrees in the front.. I figured much more. I thought -1.5 was pretty much stock.

[ho428]

I'd go more Camber at CMP if I could, Road Atlanta and VIR seem to be ok with what I have, some guys run 3+. You might check over at the Pro Tour site, they do a lot more set ups for Auto-X.
Big difference between 40 minute races hitting 130+ on long straights and high speed turns down to slow turns, compared to 2nd gear runs running auto-X. Not saying one is better, just takes a different set up.
At $300+ a tire I need them to last awhile. To aggressive a set up and I'd chew them up in one race.

[scott-462]

Actually, full track racing is more of what i was intending to say. The "autox" with cones set up in a parking lot isnt of a lot of interest to me. If a few of my buddies had some performance cars and we made a bet or competition of it, i could see the appeal in that.

[TCSGTO]

Tall ball joints will alter front geometry and give a better camber curve keeping the tires flatter in a corner instead of rolling over like stock a bodies do. This book has a wealth of info
http://scandc.com/new/node/4