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#1
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Is it posible to replace this fuel line?
I am trying to replace my fuel line from tank to fuel pump with a one-piece line from In Line Tube. The problem I have encountered is routing it through the frame brace and top spring seat so it can get the line to the tank. I have loosened up the driver side body mounts and raised body about 3/4" but still can't maneuver it through...
Has anyone done this with the body on the car? Is this even possible? I've seen where some have used stainless braided fuel line hose to run from just in front of lower control arm and snake it back in front of gas tank. Is this a good option? |
#2
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On a bodies I have to get the body up and out of the way as it's one piece and not very maneuverable.
On the f-bodies it's a 2 piece design and easy to replace with the body in place. Which are you working on? |
#3
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Quote:
I'm working on an A Body--71 GT-37. Unfortunately, I have already replaced the body mounts and did the rears by cutting holes in the trunk and using regular nuts (cage nuts were shot) ...then re-sealed up the trunk. When I had all the body mounts out would have been the best time to do this but I didn't realize this would be an issue. Now that they are all back in, I would have to cut open the trunk again which I would rather not do. I've been thinking of cutting it into a two-piece line to make it more maneuverable. Then either re-connect both metal lines at an accessible spot or maybe use stainless braided rubber gas line hose to get through the frame brace and around upper spring brace and back to the tank. |
#4
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I did it on my '64 by jacking the left rear of the body up. Ran the lines in through the rear wheel well. I installed two lines. One 1/2" and one 3/8". They are both stainless steel. The 3/8" line went in pretty well. It was easy to bend. The 1/2" was bad! B-Man has a good thread about this.
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#5
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Quote:
I wonder if I cut trunk open again I could lift body enough to get this done? At this point with the rear body mount still tight (the rest loose) I can get body up about 3/4" which is not enough. |
#6
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I've done it on a '63 Catalina and did not undo the body. The gas tank may have been out of the car I don't remember. The drive shaft and rear springs may have been out and the rear end hanging down on the control arms but don't remember that either. You have to thread it in.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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With the body on my '71 GTO, I had to chisel the mounting tab screw off to remove the old line and was able to push the new line back in close to where it was. Of course had to skip the clip and fastener on top of the frame and install one on the side of the frame.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#11
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WOW, excellent pictures and info! Not sure I can get the body up that high... We'll see. Fortunately the front end is off my car too so I only need to concern myself with firewall back. I'll mull all these suggestions over. Thanks so much! |
#12
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if you have to open it up again is it an option to weld the nuts in? rather than opening up that area again?
__________________
72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#13
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Unfortunately I don't have a welder... But maybe leave it open until I get the car on the road... Not sure what I will do but good thought. Thanks
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#14
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Measured the rise of the fuel line where it kicks up in the frame area/ starting of the rearend crossmember on one of my projects, a '71. The rise is near 10 inches. In order to get the front of the fuel line through the frame, the body is going to have to come up at least a foot. That's with the gas tank out, & you will have fun twisting/wrangling the back of the new fuel line without kinking it. With the fenders off, no engine or transmission installed, I have used the same process many times, which takes about 3 hours to get the body up that high.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#15
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Alternative...
If cutting the fuel line into two sections, it would be best if a bubble flair was put on the end of each section of steel line so the line seals better with the rubber hose connection. By marking the original fuel line where it exits the frame front crossmember,mas well as the area of the transmission crossmember, you can better discern an area to make the rubber hose connection. FWIW, Firebirds used such a rubber hose connection on their main fuel line towards the rear of the subframe.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#16
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I'm thinking an easily accessible place to do the cut would be as indicated in this picture I got from another thread... --Kim |
#17
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I have done aluminum 1/2” line with a fuel filter splice along the inner frame rail several times with the body attached to the frame. If your combo is other than stock your butt meter will thank you with the extra fuel supply on banzai bursts.
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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 Tempest ET clone street/strip 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1969 GTO limelight Conv. 4speed go and show (sold) 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1972 GTO 455 HO, 4 speed, (build) 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds |
The Following User Says Thank You to J.C.you For This Useful Post: | ||
#18
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I'll say you'll be fighting yourself and get nowhere with one piece. Even with the frame separated, the line is tricky twisting and turning to route it as the factory did.
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#19
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Unless this is a concourse resto get a roll of aluminum fuel line, hook a coat hanger to it with duct tape to pull it thru the front frame horn and line up with the fuel pump inlet. Unroll the rest of the fuel line and bend and shape as needed to fit in the factory clips. Bubble flare each end, hooked up whatever attaching hose you’re gonna use front and rear and take off. I did this in my car in less than an hour
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 64speed For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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Well, I cut my one-piece line back in front of lower control arm. The shorter rear piece was still tough to wrestle through but I got it in w/o kinking it. I did need to temporarily remove 2 of the floating body bushings but had just enough room to get them out and back in.
I still need to bubble out the line where the rubber splice will go. Also need to install front of the line, install splice and then clamp the fuel and new brake lines in. Thanks to everyone who helped me work through this. Much appreciated! I will post pictures here when done in case it helps anyone else. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 79 Phoenix For This Useful Post: | ||
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