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#1
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Rusty Intake Manifolds
I want to clean some old cast iron intakes I have on the shelf...
They are as removed....with grease,old paint and rust......and some have some rust in the plenum under the carb mounting flange.... Just exploring my options....speed vs cost.....vs quality of job.... Electrolysis.......muriatic acid...media blasting.....Evaporust soak? Done the wire wheel \ wire brush route before..... Looking for some input.....Thanks |
#2
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wife.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to i82much For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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I did this about 5 years ago, but I cleaned up a 72 intake with a wire wheel then soaked in plain ole white vinegar for a few days maybe a week then knocked off the loose stuff with a wire wheel after soaking, intake came out alright but my stuff idmsnt high dollar builds, included some before and after pics
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78 T/A 4SPEED, Original paint, match #’s, mine since ‘99. 77 t/a sold 85 Monte Carlo SS sold 83 Mustang GT sold |
The Following User Says Thank You to phil400 For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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I also have a 78 Ta that I've owned for a long time... |
#5
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Apparently....Muriatic acid....will potentially damage intake if left too long in the soak...
Phosphoric acid would be a better choice.. |
#6
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More pics, afterI was done I used brake clean the coated it with WD till I was ready to paint
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78 T/A 4SPEED, Original paint, match #’s, mine since ‘99. 77 t/a sold 85 Monte Carlo SS sold 83 Mustang GT sold |
#7
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Another pic
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78 T/A 4SPEED, Original paint, match #’s, mine since ‘99. 77 t/a sold 85 Monte Carlo SS sold 83 Mustang GT sold |
#8
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Here it is painted, sorry for all the posts, was years ago had to go searching through my phone for the pics,I also painted the exhaust crossover with several andI mean several coats of high header paint to slow the engine paint burning off and rusting, several years some discoloration but no rust
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78 T/A 4SPEED, Original paint, match #’s, mine since ‘99. 77 t/a sold 85 Monte Carlo SS sold 83 Mustang GT sold |
#9
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When I was in AACA years ago, one of the guys used electrolysis, putting the part in a large tub with leads from a battery. One lead went to a clamp on the part and another to the metal tub (if I remember correctly). His technique worker great on some really funky parts. I really like Phil400's method as it does not involve electrical stuff and possible shocks to curious kids and others. Thanks, Phil.
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"No replacement for displacement!" GTOAA--https://www.gtoaa.org/ |
The Following User Says Thank You to 1968GTO421 For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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#11
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Electrolysis removes rust. Any de-greasing is entirely incidental, it'd be like dunking the part in mildly-soapy water for a day or two. Ideally, the part is completely degreased/cleaned before being de-rusted by electrolysis. He'd put a lead on a sacrificial piece of steel, with the sacrificial metal close to the piece to be de-rusted as possible but NOT TOUCHING. Ideally, a piece of sacrificial sheet-metal, hammered/pounded/formed to sorta-conform to the shape of the piece to be de-rusted. The cleaning works best when the sacrificial metal is close. So the back-side of the part won't be de-rusted. The farther away the sacrificial steel, the less-well the cleaning action. I played around with electrolysis for awhile, even bought a 24-volt battery charger to speed things up compared to a 12-volt charger. The suggested electrolyte was water plus WASHING Soda. (Not "baking soda".) Washing soda was harder to find--had to go to several stores before I found some next to all the laundry detergent. I don't remember which way the battery charger leads are connected. Get it wrong, and you'll have a de-rusted sacrificial metal, and the part you wanted to clean is even worse. I'm thinking this works on iron/steel but NOT aluminum. When it works, it works really well. But getting the sacrificial metal close enough to the area of the part to be de-rusted is tricky. A DC welding power supply at higher voltage still would be better than a battery charger. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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The exhaust crossover junk is something to be sure is all gone and not just loosened up to be blown into the ports on the other side regardless of what you use.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#13
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If you have a machine shop in your area with a thermal cleaning process, that is simple and easy. They will look like new manifolds when they come out, inside and out. A shop around here would probably charge $50.00-75.00 to run a load. Our drum would hold maybe 6 intakes. So per manifold, pretty reasonable.
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#14
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Does that process remove rust...or just paint/grease? |
#15
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Parts come out like new castings from the foundry. No rust, paint or anything else, inside and out. We bake iron in a slow rotating drum at about 650 degrees F for an hour. Then it goes directly into a stainless steel shot machine with .030" tiny steel wire shot for 45 minutes. Where are you located? |
#16
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Figured if that what the price was....I would find an alternate method... I'm north of Seattle...about 150 miles... |
#17
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honestly, if you put a little bit of effort into it before worrying about the rust, your time invested will be well worth it.
Take them to a pressure washer to get the grease and oil off; Then a soak in evaporust(ect) will prove astonishing results.
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#18
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An electrolysis, lemon juice, oxalic acid, snd such may be woryh it for 3 or more manifolds.
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#19
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1967 intake manifold media blasted with #7 glass bead and an early hub/balancer assembly.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. Last edited by lust4speed; 01-26-2024 at 04:38 AM. |
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