#141  
Old 05-03-2024, 11:34 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Drivetrain back in car need one more suggestion

Hopefully Mr Barron sees this this ! My engine is back in and the mechanical work is complete
Except replacing the exhaust system I obviously want to keep it factory style .. so just a few questions
1, the current pipe ends are not chrome tipped and are curved down and not straight back is this
Correct?
2, any suggestions on a correct style muffler brand ?
3, should it have a cross or x pipe? Here’s some pics minus the air cleaner the current exhaust system runs straight back separately..PS … notice the tag registration date!!!

Thank you
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  #142  
Old 05-04-2024, 09:34 AM
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Simple answer for all your exhaust questions.

Gardner Exhaust.

Plus they furnish the closest resonator that is used on all 1966 GTO’s.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A).
2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option.
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  #143  
Old 05-04-2024, 02:04 PM
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428ho4spd 428ho4spd is offline
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Default Gardner

Best in the business.
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  #144  
Old 05-04-2024, 04:05 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Ok do you have a link or company info
Thank you for the reply..

  #145  
Old 05-04-2024, 04:25 PM
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428ho4spd 428ho4spd is offline
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Here ya go... https://www.gardnerexhaust.com/

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  #146  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:33 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Looking good under the hood Tedd !

There was an optional chrome tip exhaust for 66GTO that came out past the back bumper.
Yours didn't come with it but I don't think anyone would object to it on the car.
Will just be a matter of your preference .
Its rarely on PHS documents - but i see them very often on cars that didn't come with them.

The original mufflers were unequal lengths like shown by 428ho4spd's photo of the Gardner system.
Definitely agree Gardner is the top choice for your particular car.
Not all cars are as worthy.

Don't remember if we mentioned before but your radiator also looks to be the original 4core Harrison.

  #147  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:37 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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The wheel weights on the outside is probably & actually period correct for 1966.
I would prefer them only on the inside - or touched up neatly with black paint so they don't grab attention.

Its a personal judgment call overall

  #148  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:45 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Hose clamps look new but the wrong type.
Original Repops on all the coolant hoses would be a small investment that pays off in appearance.

The new clamps are an adverse effect to all your other detail work.

And congrats on the new wheels and redlines . ! .

  #149  
Old Yesterday, 02:32 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Finally On the road!! Need help with last items.

Hello,,
Finally car is on the road and running excellent
Still a few items to discuss but this one is IMPORTANT.. I have the original radiator installed and it was cleaned and cored however I notice the car isn’t over heating to where It’s boiling over BUT it runs hot when just running g around the neighborhood without lots of airflow. The engine is new so I want to keep it running cool. I am having the fan clutch changed but I want to install a new more efficient radiator.. of course I will keep my orginal radiator CAN someone please recommend a replacement radiator.. need advise asap it’s summer in south Fla and the temp is always on the 90s 😡💥.. I have a few other issues to discuss later .. thank you ..

  #150  
Old Yesterday, 02:44 PM
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GPG38AS is what I have in my 1964 convertible Le Mans with factory air conditioning. I’m using a 1966 style radiator with the drivers side upper inlet hose.

This is the Cold Case Super Duty aluminum radiator with twin 1-1/4” tubes, their other radiators have twin 1” tubes.

Best to call and speak with one of their sales people and be sure you get the proper one, the part number I listed above is for an automatic transmission car. Be sure to ask about the Super Duty radiator with the 1-1/4” tubes.

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/pr...8aAtjaEALw_wcB
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  #151  
Old Yesterday, 09:58 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Verify if the builder used 160* or 180* or 195* thermostat.
I always use a 160* in all my old cars , and drill a 1/8" hole in the outer rim of the tstat as a "burp" relief to prevent any trapped air when refilling the cooling system.

And be sure to run 93 octane , preferably with some lead additive.

  #152  
Old Yesterday, 11:04 PM
RedDirtRoad RedDirtRoad is offline
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The 1/8th inch hole is key
I do that as well.
Pontiacs run hot so like Baron says always use a 160

  #153  
Old Today, 10:15 AM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Understood…

Ok … I will definitely pass this on to the builder
About the radiator and also I find the 160 t stat
With the hole will also help.. the new fan clutch he ordered is one that will stay engaged at all times instead of heat activated.. for a 70,000 mile
Car with no ps or pb it surprisingly drives well!
As soon as I get over this hump as I mentioned there’s a few other issues… factory radio inop,
Wiper motors sluggish, and the biggy is the top.
Will get into detail later.. happy Father’s Day and thank you guys for all the advice .. it’s been a long
Expensive journey but I do see all the excitement with this old goat!! It’s pretty cool driving around. 👍

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