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#41
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Here are a couple pix of donor car. Lately have been spending time
taking parts from donor and cleaning and painting when needed and reinstalling in good car. Planning to use dash out of donor car. I was hoping to re use the engine harness but I would have to repair one of the wires. I am thinking maybe it would be money well spent to just buy a new one. Anyone have any experience with this? |
#42
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Yea you should be able to do that. The GP's with a/c called for heavy duty springs.
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#43
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I was having alot of electrical issues before my resto. I replaced both the dash and the engine harness and that resolved those issues. The harnesses dry out with age. Especially replace dash harness if replacing dash. JMO
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#44
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SJ emblems
I found two Model SJ fender emblems in the trunk of one of my donor cars. I have one original box. They dont look like they have ever been mounted. One is basically perfect condition and the other is near perfect. (scraped a little bit of red paint off when I was polishing, dont know if you can see in pictures ) I would use them but unfortunately my GP is not an SJ so I might as well get rid of them. Planning to post in for sale section. Is $100 including shipping too much to ask? Tried to research a little but not seeing alot of NOS SJ emblems out there to compare.
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#45
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Let me know if you need anything .I have some stuff left over and I too had 3 cars too chose from..Nice Job
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BOB SLUSSER 937-286-4343 |
#46
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Thanks Bob, I used your restoration album as a reference for alot of my own work. It was very helpful during reassembly, picking out tires/rims etc. As of right now I think I am OK on parts, but down the road I may need some black interior parts such as door panels.
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#47
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Carb Question
So I took the Rochester Quadrajet carb to a mechanic last week to have a rebuild. He called yesterday and said that it is not worth rebuilding, there is too much wrong with it. He recommended getting an Edelbrock or Holley and said I could get one for around $400. He doesnt sell them so I dont necessarily think he is pulling a fast one but a $120 rebuild sounded alot better to me than a $400 new carb. He said he doesnt trust the online shops that sell rebuilt Quadrajets. I am not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions? I am not totally concerned about originality so I am open to a different brand. Is there anything out there that fits the the factory manifold without modification and will still provide decent performance? Or is there a reputable place to get a good Quad that would be a better option?
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#48
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Dash installation
Installed dash this weekend. Actually went pretty smooth. Labeled wires when I removed from donor car and everything hooked up nice. The cable that goes to the heater box from the temperature "warm/cold" switch really pushes hard. Any suggestions on how to improve this before I brake something? Also there is a vacuum line that I cant figure out where it hooks up. I have a picture attached. Anybody know what this hooks up to?
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#49
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Looks like the heater-a/c control vacuum check valve that should be on the engine side of the firewall and connects to the rear carb vacuum fitting with another piece of vac line.
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#50
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The vacuum line hooks up to the back if the carb fitting were the power brake line is attacked to ,, i believe,, its for the all of your vacuum operated vents,, Make sure ever thing works before you rap-it up ,,
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnDzvmN8sok |
#51
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Questionable carb.
Did your mechanic state what the problems were that make it not worth rebuilding? Throttle plate worn, corrosion in the main body...? The Q-jet is a pretty easy one to overhaul and haven't seen too many that were too far gone that couldn't be rebuilt. If your mechanic isn't comfortable doing the overhaul you might check around for other parties that could handle it or maybe try your hand at it - they really aren't that difficult and most overhaul kits come with detailed procedures or you can also check the internet for reference on overhauling one. Some common trouble areas that shy people away from rebuilds are stripped fuel filter housings, leaking fuel discharge passageways and worn throttle plates. If the fuel filter housing is stripped you can purchase a replacement fuel filter housing inlet that self taps for worn out or stripped threaded housings. If the soldered areas on the bottom of the main body is leaking for the fuel discharge passageway you can clean them and epoxy them but the best way is to just resolder them - best way is take a metal spoon, some tin solder and flux, heat the spoon to melt the solder, apply some flux to the carb body where the original solder was and dip them into the molten solder. very similar to the way originally done and the solder collects at the bottom as it cools preventing clogging the passageways. Also use the small black sponge in the carb rebuild kit installed into the throttle plate to help seal that problem area, most kits come with them. If you need help or questions PM me and can help walk you through it.
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#52
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The mechanic showed me where the fuel filter housing threads were stripped. He said there is a kit you can use to fix it but it is not very effective. Right now I am looking for a different QJ or replacement core. Definitely dont trust myself to do any carb work.
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#53
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If you don't use the that carb let me know what you want for it.
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#54
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Quote:
Send your carb to Ken at Everyday Performance, he can make it right no matter what condition. He does great work and is honeston price and delivery. Great guy and can do performance mods to make it run stronger. Many Buick guys use him. My carb works amazing. http://www.everyday-performance.com/...arburetors.htm |
#55
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Cliff Ruggles has what you need to fix that Qjet and make it perfect
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BOB SLUSSER 937-286-4343 |
#56
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Is this box for cruise control? I dont want to put it in my car, but the way it is set up now a speed-o cable goes from the trans to this box, then from the box to the dash speedometer. I am thinking if I want to bypass this thing the cable would go directly from the dash to the trans. Is that right??? My problem is the cable from the dash is not nearly long enough to reach the trans. Am I missing something?
I bought an engine harness from PY. I think I know where everything is supposed to hook up except for the horn relay. Could anyone post a pic of the horn relay? Also the PY harness has a plastic tube, I am not sure where this goes either. Anyone with a pic would be great! Thanks again. |
#57
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Yes, that's the actuator for the cruise. You need a cable for a non-cruise car, they are readily available. Yes, it goes directly from the speedo to the trans.
Is the plastic tube that thin spaghetti tubing? If so, it goes to your heater valve (in line to the heater hose that connect to the back of the head) and the other end goes to the heat/ac controls. There should be another one from the firewall to a vacuum source to supply the system. The tubing fits into a small rubber vacuum hose where it connects. My car has both pieces of plastic tube coming from the firewall, the longer to the valve and the other to vacuum. It's indeed strapped to the back engine harness, but I'm surprised it's included with a repro harness. If its not the small spaghetti tubing you're referring to, I don't know what it is. The horn relay is next to the brake booster on the driver's side, I think the connectors only go on one way. There are three connectors on my car. I believe they come from the headlight harness, though, not the engine harness. That's the harness that runs down the fenderwell towards the core support and is attached with straps. It comes through the firewall under that relay almost behind the fuse panel. Hope this helps..
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Last edited by 69GP1; 12-08-2012 at 08:07 AM. |
#58
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The plastic tube actually holds several wires. I think it is supposed to fasten to the firewall or something. Not sure.
So if I run the speed-o cable directly from the dash to the tranny what route does it take? Does it go from dash, through firewall to trans? or is there another more direct route? |
#59
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and can the cable be removed and reinstalled without removing the dash.
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#60
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Does anyone know what size bolt to use on the rear fuel strap holes? Is it 1/4 and 1 3/4 long?
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