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#1
03-16-2004, 12:13 PM
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Is it possible that this is not a crack even though it looks like one? I found this while pulling the motor and I'm afraid it's a freeze crack. I can see that the middle freeze plug has been replaced. There is a visable line ahead of the replaced middle plug and between the middle and rear plug on the driver's side. The rear/third plug is very crusty and rusted.
I just filled the car up with water to see if it seeps. I haven't built pressure since it's ready for removal, though. What's next? The car hasn't been driven in a couple yrs and was okay prior to that. There was a leak in the radiator so I replaced it. The whole timeit's been sitting, the heater hoses have been removed. |
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#2
03-16-2004, 12:13 PM
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Is it possible that this is not a crack even though it looks like one? I found this while pulling the motor and I'm afraid it's a freeze crack. I can see that the middle freeze plug has been replaced. There is a visable line ahead of the replaced middle plug and between the middle and rear plug on the driver's side. The rear/third plug is very crusty and rusted.
I just filled the car up with water to see if it seeps. I haven't built pressure since it's ready for removal, though. What's next? The car hasn't been driven in a couple yrs and was okay prior to that. There was a leak in the radiator so I replaced it. The whole timeit's been sitting, the heater hoses have been removed. |
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#3
03-16-2004, 12:18 PM
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Bigger. Tell me good things.
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#4
03-16-2004, 01:15 PM
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That doesn't look good. I have heard that is the first place they crack when they freeze. See if you can take a Dremel and a wire wheel and clean it up. They make a kit that you put a dye in your water and shine a black light on it. It might be worth investing in it.
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#5
03-16-2004, 01:39 PM
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Ouch looks like it has been leaking by the way the metal has turned colors.
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Cuz68 
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#6
03-16-2004, 04:19 PM
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It's full of water now for several hrs and it's not even damp. I can't start it though until I patch everything back together. I was gonna sell it, but I can't with it being questionable. I'll try that dye test.
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#7
03-16-2004, 04:31 PM
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Doug, sometimes corrosion can "seal" up a leak. See if you can pressurize the system somehow with compressed air if it still doesn't leak tap on it lightly then see if corroded area starts leaking. Can you get in there with wire brush to clean it up some?
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1966 GTO 1969 Lemans Convertible- F.A.S.T. legal family cruiser. 12.59 on G70-14 Polyglas tires. 1.78 60' 1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. . 1979 Trans Am 400, 4-speed, 4 wheel disc. View from the drivers seat racing down Atco Raceway- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhYDMdOEC7A Ride along in the other lane-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIzgpLtF_uw |
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#8
03-16-2004, 04:37 PM
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Very good. I can eat plenty of rust and grease from under there. I'm looking forward to that.
 That's a flashlight shinging on the center plug too, btw.I can't pressurize it now, because the garage power is disconnected during reconstruction. |
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#9
03-16-2004, 04:40 PM
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Doug ,
Check with Eastwood they have a magnifluxing kit that you can spray on to see if it is cracked. |
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#10
03-16-2004, 04:53 PM
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I dremel, wire brush, glasses and dye kit is in order.
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#11
03-16-2004, 06:35 PM
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If you have an AutoZone nearby they'll loan you a pressure tester that goes on where the radiator cap goes and you pump it up there.I know that where it is cracked if its cracked it is repairable did one a few yrs ago.
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#12
03-16-2004, 07:07 PM
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Autozone is a mile away. Good info.
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#13
03-16-2004, 07:19 PM
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Even if it is cracked there that is not fatal. I don't know what your plans are for this motor, but that type of a freeze crack is easly repaired by your local machine shop. as long as it did not go into the lifter vally or any of the importaint structures.
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#14
03-16-2004, 07:30 PM
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yeah, dont dump this raIII block with out trying first, if it is #s matching
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#15
03-16-2004, 07:35 PM
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I'm gonna pressure test it, scrape it, tap on it. The heater hoses were loose the whole time so I think it's probably okay. I'm thinking that this was there already when I put it in.
If it checks good, I'm gonna start it on a stand to be sure. I can't sell it until it checks good though. It's a 71 YS GTO motor, so if it is cracked, I'll try to have it repaired if it's cheap enough. Thanks all, |
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#16
03-16-2004, 07:38 PM
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It's not the RA III block. It's just one I have in another car.
Get this. I posted another response that had a "trigger" word in it that has to be approved before it can be posted. Wonder which word it was? |
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#17
03-17-2004, 10:35 PM
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PonchoV8-- I had a 70 Judge that I bought with the identical crack in the block. Pervious owners had let it freeze with only water in it. Took it to an old time machinist. He ground a v between the plugs and welded it with what he called "cast iron welding rod". I put 2 rubber edged freeze plugs in it, filled it with water, brought it up to normal temp, then put in a quart of silicone silicate. Ran it for an hour, then drained water. Re-filled with antifreeze and drove it for 2 years, even pulling a trailer 600 miles once. Never leaked a drop.
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Age and treachery will win over youth and skill |
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#18
03-21-2004, 11:37 AM
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Good news so far. I've got a pressure tester on it at 15 psi and even took a hammer to the area (to tap on it). NO seeping in that area. I found several other locations that were leaking---all were cured with a screw driver to the loose clamp. Takes more tightening than I thought to keep them from leaking.
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