[78_TA_Freak]

I want to replace everything in my front end: springs, balljoints, idler & pitman arm, tie-rods, uca, lca ext..... Can someone make me a list of what I all need to get the car feeling like new up front. This is for a 1978 t/a.

[dssco]

OK, here we go:
steering- 2 outer tie rod ends, 2 inner tie rods, 2 adjusting sleeves, centerlink and idler arm, maybe even steering column coupler
suspension- 2 upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings(2 bushings per arm, front and rear), front coil springs, and
new gas shocks
2 sway bar to frame bracket bushings and bar to control arm bushings (usually sold in a kit).
If you're doing the work we can talk you through it. Just really pay attention to how the coils springs are located before you take it apart (tapered end of the springs should line up with the drain-hole on the lower control arm). Please ask for advice before disassembly because there is enough compressed energy in those springs to crush/remove needed body parts that you're probably used to using every day. Also a good manual is helpful. Pressing in and out bushings and lower ball joints can really be a challenge. Good luck and keep us posted!

[SGTGTO]

I learned everything from the guys here on the board. Thats probably why my springs were not set right the first time!

Easiest way for doing the springs, that I found, is go to Autozone, rent their spring compressor that has the fork and hook end. Use a jack to hold the control arm up to make the spring compression easier. Then slowly lower the jack until the spring falls out.

[sts]

I'm not a real big fan of harbor freight, but for some of the shad tree projects where we won't be using the tool 40/5/52, it's not a bad option. They have their coil spring compressor on sale for $8.99. They also have a ball joint tool for about $30. I think it's overkill to replace parts just to replace parts, and it's going to be a major horse pill to swallow when you see the price tag. If you're going to spend all that money on complete components, what's another $39 to own the proper tools to do the repair. That way, I don't have to dance to someone else's drum as to when I'll do the repair and when I'll get the rented tools back.

[sts]

Oh yes, another thing, control arm bushings. Most people end up taking the arms to a machiene shop because they are a tough diy job. When you fool around with a machiene shop, maybe they'll get around to it today, maybe not. Tomorrow comes around and the same thing. They aren't making anything, so why stop cranking out the real money to dink with bushings on a carry in bench job?

That means that you'll have to rent the tools to break down the front end, take them back because you have to wait however long for the control arm bushings, then get the tools to put it back together.

[Razorhorn]

I am doing this now on my kids 78 TA. Unless you're changing your steering gear, there is no need to replace the Pitman Arm. Just polish it up.

When I removed the spring, I chained it to the lower control arm, removed the control arm, and then used a spring compressor tool mentioned in this thread to remove the chain and safely remove it from the control arm. I know it can be done with a jack and no chain, but for me it is way to risky - read that as I had never done it before!

Your lower ball joints are pressed in. Your upper ball joints are riveted in from the factory. If the uppers have been replaced, you're lucky because they'll be bolted in and you won't have to grind off the rivets. You're going to need a ball joint press to remove and replace the lower ball joints. You can rent one or better yet, borrow one from O'Reilly's or Autozone or whatever you have in your area. I borrowed one from O'Reilly's. Don't hammer the lower ball joints in. Press them in.

There are a 1001 ways to remove and replace the control arm bushings. I did it myself and if I can do it anybody can. All you need is a large vice and properly sized sockets for pressing the old ones out and the new ones in. Soak them for a couple days in advance with PB Blaster or equivalent. Some people swear by soapy water. On the lowers, I pressed out the inner core and then hammered out the rubber bushing. This left the outer metal bushing core. Then I pressed out the outer metal core. Took a lot of time and effort. Be very careful to put some kind of support between the inner and outer lips of the control arm so they're not compressed or distorted while you're working. On the upper control arm bushings, you're going to have to deal with the control arm shaft. I used a hacksaw and a dremel to cut through entire circumference of the outer bushing jacket and then used a heavy screwdriver to press out the jacket where it was pressed into the control arm. The upper removal went pretty easily after having fought with the lowers.

[bobzdar]

In terms of parts...I just went to www.p-s-t.com and ordered a polygraphite super front end kit. It comes with everything you need to replace except for the center link and front springs if they're worn. I wound up just cutting a set of factory a/c springs a full coil on the passenger side and 3/4 of a coil on the driver's side and reinstalling. My old center link was in good shape (as was most of the suspension, but I figured if I was going to pull it apart to replace the bushings I might as well do everything), and is easy to replace at any time.

The hardest part was removing the old control arm bushings, I just used an air chisel to get them out. Pressing them in wasn't too bad, just make sure you don't compress the whole arm, use a socket or something to keep them from getting crushed.