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#1
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Headers vs manifold -- need advice
The garage just called to let me know they pulled the engine the other day. The only issue he found was my headers are "soft" and need to be replaced.
He said I should go with manifolds as that is his own personal preference. Said headers leak, manifolds won't. Less maintenance. Remember, price doesn't matter. So, which would you go with, and why? Pros and cons? I need to order something tomorrow or the next day
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#2
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Good headers don't leak. Cheap gaskets and crappy installations of headers do cause leaks.
Pros for headers: - More HP (better breathing engine) - Better looks (come in a variety of finishes) - Will actually last longer (if you get coated headers) Cons: - Clearance can be an issue (I highly recommend Doug's) - both ground clearance, spark plug clearance (harder to change them), and steering box clearance - Not sure what you currently have for exhaust, but you may need to change out some (or all) of you existing system Personally, I wouldn't go with stock exhaust manifolds unless I was doing a restoration where all the original parts and pieces were important. This is just my opinion, I am sure other people's feedback will differ. Phil |
#3
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Headers are a bit more of a pain as some can have clearance problems on speed bumps, can be anoying on longer drives (some may not mind this) and be difficult to install. I have a 400HO motor which uses the Longbranch manifolds (better flowing factory maniflod) The manifolds can be ordered from Ramair Restorations
http://www.ramairrestoration.com/cat...b2213dbe4fc28f Also remember if you go from a header to the factory performance manifolds you will may have to replace atleast the exhaust down tubes to mate up to the rest of the exhaust system. You need to check if your motor already has the oil filter adapter to clear the new manifolds (also sold there) I replaced my stock longbranch manifolds with the above mentioned ones and had them ceramic coated. This helps under hood heat and keeps the manifolds looking good. |
#4
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They make header bolts that keep from backing off. I believe Summit carries them. Also important to tighten them after a few miles (heat cycling expansion). If you go with a quality set that are ceramic coated (like Dougs) and follow the above, you should be ok.
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
#5
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#6
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If you go back with headers ,be sure to use copper gaskets....not the crappy cardboard some use...I had that on a Chevy I had, cardboard gasket would go out, copper lasts...just need to re-tighten after a 'run in' period
my preferance is manifolds...you could mabe get the long branch ones, pretty good stuff...I have stock manifolds and dont have the clearance problems some of my friends do...most seem to hang down quite a bit under neath...looking in my rear view mirror at my buddys car..i always comment he`s got "big balls"...lol there is another disadvantage (in most cases, not all) , headers tend to run hotter so the hot starting issue could make itself known...
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FireBjorn http://FirstGenFirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=221 breathe and enjoy it , life is temporary 69 Firebird convertible 71 Triumph TR6 |
#7
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If you're doing a stock rebuild you won't notice any appreciable difference in performance going with headers over Ram Air manifolds.
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John "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" |
#8
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He did explain to me that my headers were horribly wedged into the floorpans and I probably heard noises now and then. And, they were cheap .. big surprise.
We talked about the pipe being replaced if I went with manifold, and the best classic car exhaust guy would do the work on that. And he said if I went with manifold, don't get the cheapie ones (I wouldn't, anyway). Before I got the new exhaust system, the headers would occasionally get tweaked on a bump. I started being more careful one the system was replaced but the car does have low headers and I have pics posted somewhere on this site. So y'all have me torn. Looks don't matter as the car isn't stock like my 'Stang. It's not a restoration, more of replacing stuff the moron previous owner didn't or replaced cheaply (like the plastic twist tie to hold things up).
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#9
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For what it's worth, my advise is to go with the long branch RAIII manifolds. Cleaner install, factory look, better performance, and quieter.
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1969 TA RAIII M40 Auto Cameo White/ Std Blue Int 1970 TA RAIII M21 4-spd Lucy Blue/Std Black Int 1971 TA 455 HO M22 4-Spd Lucy Blue/Deluxe White Int |
#10
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Ceramic coated headers. Not the race, long tube kind or the shorty, block hugger type either. You'll save the extra weight and the motor will breath better. Ceramics drastically decrease underhood temps. Upgrade to different gaskets from what they come with, there are a variety of opinions regarding them among members. Who really wants to blast over speed bumps anyway?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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"Trust me friend, a hundred years goes faster than you think." -Kenny Chesney "Go fast, turn left, hang on, go straight, go faster...who wouldn't wanna piss off 900 angry horses?" 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 110 Convertible 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass 350 HO Coupe, soon to have Olds 403 1970 Chevrolet Nova 383 Coupe, NEW! 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Z71 Ext. 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 SLT |
#11
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Thanks -- I went with Ram Air III longbranch manifolds. Was a tough decision but I weighed all the pros and cons of what y'all said and felt it was in my best interest to changeover.
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#12
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Don't forget the oil filter adapter to angle the oil filter backwards to avoid contact w/lb manifolds
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70 GTO Conv 455/A 69 Firebird Hdtp Drag Car 69 T/A Conv (All Steel)Clone a69ta@woh.rr.com |
#13
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68 Firebird 400HO / 4-Speed Coupe - Future Pure Stock Drag Racer 89 Firebird Formula - 305 TPI / 5-Speed Hardtop |
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