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70 lucerne lemans · 09:18 AM

It looks like my tranny is toast,reverse doesnt work and is slipping in 2nd.I'm going to put a transbrake in while it's being rebuilt.I'm running a turbo 400 with a fairly loose 8" continnental conv. that flashes to about 4500 ,seems like it flashes higher on the shifts.

Do I need a tighter conv. for a trans brake?What else do I need besides a button?Solenoid?It 60's in the high 1.3s to low 1.4s now.I would like to run the 6.50 class that runs a .400 pro tree and still be able to bracket race a sportsman .500 tree. See sig for the combo.

bad69bird · 10:03 AM

Mark,

Whatever you do put a pro-brake in it! Especially if you are going to compete on a .400 pro-tree. Your R/T's will be ALOT faster! I couldn't tell you the brand of valve body to get (bought mine used with one in it already). Any decent performance trans shop should be able to steer you in the right direction for the valve body, button, and solenoid. Dynamic transmission here in Delaware does alot of the faster guys stuff here and I think he's in "fastest Street Car" magazine and maybe "National Dragster". I can get you his number if you like?

As far as your converter, I don't think that there is any "special" requirement...just don't run a cheap one! LOL

And whatever you do don't get your trans done where P-dude gets his done at!

LOL J/K Kenny!

Jack Ferris · 01-27-2008, 03:36 PM

What type of cars run the 6.50 class? I could never compete with the .400 cars (Super Gas) because most were tube chassis and they react a whole lot faster than my back half car.

BruceWilkie · 01-27-2008, 04:43 PM

For sure on the chassis flex and RT. My old car chassis got so floppy I started to have to leave between 1st and 2nd yellow or have someone stage me deeper into the beam. It would have never worked on a Pro tree. (without a crossover and my competitor getting first leave)
Do not try to use a typical convertor. Go with a company YOU trust and have it built to your application.

cgeise · 01-28-2008, 02:34 PM

When running a t/brake - I would recomend a convertor with a steel stator - I tried a 400 dollar -- aluminum stator unit - and turned it to mush - the convertor company said that any time you have big power and a heavy car - with t/brake - steel is the way to go -- And Hipster makes a good t/brake for your application.

70 lucerne lemans · 01-28-2008, 07:01 PM

My Continental conv. has been working great,but I dont know if its up for a tbrake.I'm tempted to just order a new tranny and conv. from ATI and be done with it.Looks like about $2K-ouch!I need to do something quick,the next points race is in 2 weeks.

Jack Ferris · 01-28-2008, 07:26 PM

Call Kris @ Continental and ask him. They stamp the converters so if you know what the markings are he can tell you yes or no. I have used an 8" Continental with a brake for 16 years now. They did some updates about 4 years ago and I'm still using it.

greggutknecht · 01-28-2008, 08:19 PM

Most of the guys around here with high 7 low 8 sec cars run Hipster brakes,good stuff.Greg

Probird · 01-28-2008, 10:56 PM

My Hipster brake works great. I did have a problem with the aluminum Hipster brake though. I would stay away from that one. They did take care of me and sent me the steel one at no charge. Good customer service. Here is their website: http://www.autotransdesign.com/

Half-Inch Stud · 01-29-2008, 08:29 AM

..My Switch-PItch Converter even got the Steel Stator.
Something to consider since you may STILL be Street Legal huh.

PONTIAC DUDE · 01-29-2008, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bad69bird

Mark,

Whatever you do put a pro-brake in it! Especially if you are going to compete on a .400 pro-tree. Your R/T's will be ALOT faster!

And whatever you do don't get your trans done where P-dude gets his done at!

LOL J/K Kenny!

LOL. He finally made it right. Was the load of that Montrous "1250 hp Nitrous feed Dude Pontiac engine."

Yes big difference. When I showed at VMP for the Heads up shootout I had a std brake. Lucky if i could get a .650 light.

Since I had the Pro brake installed EVERY light is in the .450's. Now to work on that adjustable dedenbear button. Hardest deal is backing up holding the button in while turning the wheel.

Converter construction internally is different to take that shock.

PONTIAC DUDE · 01-29-2008, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack Ferris

What type of cars run the 6.50 class? I could never compete with the .400 cars (Super Gas) because most were tube chassis and they react a whole lot faster than my back half car.

Just depends on the track classes and rules.
Here are our rules. Pulls between 25 and 40 cars.
6.50 INDEX
General Class Rules
1. Street door cars and trucks.
2. Any power adder.
3. No race car lettering.
4. No throttle stop.
5. No wheelie bars.
6. No electronic control devices other than ignition box permitted on vehicle.
7. No delay box.
8. No counters.
9. No nitrous timers.
10. Trans brake allowed.
11. Mufflers and working lights required.
12. Stock suspension aftermarket direct bolt on parts only (coil overs ok).
13. Electric shifter & air shifter OK.
14. Radial tire must be 28 x 10.5 slick (no 'w' tires) or 315 radial max.
15. Nitrous button or micro switch OK.
16. 6.50 brake-out rule
17. .400 tree
18. NHRA safety rules apply

They started a 6.50 1/8th mile stock suspension deal down here because to be competitive ya better be in the 4 second range to run the DR stock suspension heads up class. That's 7's in the quarter.
Look at Bradenton last weekend. 8 cars qualified 4.99 or quicker. 16 cars ran 5.30 or quicker. Look where they are from. Scroll down to the Stock Suspension class.

http://danneumannracecars.com/forum/....php?p=220#220

Bad a$$ part of the country. At least for Stock suspension D.R. cars.

Dave Polichena · 01-29-2008, 01:58 PM

Hey Mark, try giving Joe a call. He is a racer and has helped me in the past. He does alot of glides but see if he can help you with the 400. I am a happy customer.

http://competitionspeedequipment.com...n_alive_glides

I've had good luck with ATI and BTE converters, IMHO, stay away from John Winters.

Ken MacNicol · 01-30-2008, 12:41 PM

Dave,

Don't let Kev hear you say that. My JW was in the car more than 17 years before I got a looser ATI.

Dave Polichena · 01-30-2008, 01:24 PM

Hey Ken, your brother knows how I feel about them. JW was never able to build me a converter after 4 trips. They probably do ok for other makes just not Pontiac.

How much did you pick up after you got the new converter

70 lucerne lemans · 01-30-2008, 05:41 PM

Ken M.,Kevin said you picked up pretty good with your new conv.Mind posting your combo and times?

I'm confused now,I just went out to check the tranny one more time before I pulled it and reverse is working fine.This has happened before when its cold out and the car has been tilted up on the trailer for a few days,reverse goes out.It's 80* today and the car has been level a few days and it works fine.

Any ideas?

Indian Uprising · 01-31-2008, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70 lucerne lemans

Ken M.,Kevin said you picked up pretty good with your new conv.Mind posting your combo and times?

I'm confused now,I just went out to check the tranny one more time before I pulled it and reverse is working fine.This has happened before when its cold out and the car has been tilted up on the trailer for a few days,reverse goes out.It's 80* today and the car has been level a few days and it works fine.

Any ideas?

put some more fluid in it...

70 lucerne lemans · 01-31-2008, 09:17 AM

Mike,I put a quart of Lucus tranny fix (thick stuff) in last fri and it seemed better,then Sat am it wouldnt reverse.I'm going to drop the pan and change the filter and see what happens.

Ken MacNicol · 02-03-2008, 08:56 PM

I picked up about a tenth and 2 mph in the 1/8 with the looser converter. The rest was when the car shut off on me and I change the distributer before first round and broke .08 and killed 12 mph. Altogether I pick up about .25 and 5 mph in the 1/8. I have not run it in the 1/4 yet.

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