[carcrazy]

wytnyt said,
ive never seen any that can't be wet sanded,,and ive used the the cheapest to the best.the paint needs to be cured underneath and layed evenly.

I verified my previous statement about PPG DCC. Page 3 specifically states metallics can be compounded but not sanded! I'm pretty certain they have done a lot of research.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...9-eb8aefd601f1

[n20ta2]

exactly what im saying!! Paint guy is right and some distortion will occur,maybe im just very particular?

[GT182]

Well, today's paints are different than paint from back in the early 80s. So with that, a few questions. How do you get rid of orange peel, even with a metallic paint? There's got to be some even with paints today. I can't see there not being any, even with a factory paint job. And what about buffing after getting rid of the orange peel? Plus, if you use a metallic paint today, do you clear over it without any sanding? I'd think any orange peel that's there would show thru clear if you didn't sand it out. And arre semi metallics done without sanding and buffing today?

Bear in mind I've been away from it for 20 some odd years, so to get up to speed for today's paint I'd like to know. You guys are more up to speed on the paint they make today.

I don't know when my GTO was painted but it's not a metalic paint. It has a few coats of clear and there's still some orange peel in the clear in spots they missed or overlooked. That I will sand out with 1000 and/or 1500 and then buff it out.

BTW... I had a 94 Lincoln Towncar that was Tucson Bronze. It was a semi metallic paint that was touched up and blended in in large areas back in '98. Plus the hood was completely redone. They were sanded and buffed and looked just as good as the original paint.

[wytnyt]

Originally Posted by carcrazy

I verified my previous statement about PPG DCC. Page 3 specifically states metallics can be compounded but not sanded! I'm pretty certain they have done a lot of research.

ppg is one of the 3 products we use the most of,,i didnt take the time to read it,,but ive done it times over and ill bet they say ''not recommended'' to absolutely cannot wet sand.
its common for paint suppliers to restrict many areas in their paint simply to cover their own products and keep you dedicated to using their brands and other compounds that can be cross used,,i stand by what ive done and while it may not be comfortable for you to do due to what ppg says i woulnt recommed the thread author try to wet sand simply because im sure he doesnt know how the paint was applied or how much was.
many times when a run is created the painter restricts his spraying in that area and if the run was started early in the overall,,then there may not be enough coverage to allow wet sanding
of course having pics would be very helpful to decide what to do

[wytnyt]

Originally Posted by n20ta2

exactly what im saying!! Paint guy is right and some distortion will occur,maybe im just very particular?

how can there be distortion if every coat was applied equally?
plz explain ,,

[beemergary]

That enamel in a solid color and the right professional laying it down is alright. I tryed doing some door jams and painting a golf cart in metalic. NEVER again. For my it just too hard when you have vertical and horizontal panels.

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by wytnyt

how can there be distortion if every coat was applied equally?
plz explain ,,

It would take a magician to lay every single coat flat with the same mil thickness AND THEN sand it to the same depth AND buff it without deviating from the same depth. If you can do it, you are far better than anyone I have ever seen. The paint doesn't even lay the same from a vertical panel to a horizontal panel. Enamel metallic can be sanded and buffed, expect a different color where you have sanded, or hire a magician.

[paint guy]

when paint is manufactured,solid color pigments are dispersed to a very fine particle size(and I mean small,measured in microns in high gloss paints)whereas metallic paints use aluminum(silver color)or copper/brass flakes(as in some of the copper/bronze color metallics that are popular on today's vehicles).You can wet sand and buff solid color single stage paints and you won't damage the pigments,likewise for any metallic BC/CC as long as you don't sand thru the clear,the color is "insulated" from the damaging effects of the sandpaper or compound.Aproblem could easily arise when attempting to wet sand a single stage metallic as the abrasives will possibly "burnish' or damage the aluminum flakes.I know that years ago there was lacquer metallic paint jobs that were sanded and buffed,but one trick the old lacquer guys used to use was to put clear(or only about 10% color mixed with clear)lacquer for the last coats.Also,if you wet sanded an entire lacquer/metallic paint job(not just in spots)it might not have been as noticable because the burnishing was thru-out the entire job.In addition,the method in which the aluminum flakes themselves were manufactured could have been different way back when,if the manufacturers knew that most lacquers were going to get polished.One more thing to keep in mind,when compared to todays production paint jobs,most consumers would find a factory lacquer paint job from the sixties unacceptable,as they would a single stage metallic acrylic enamel.Base-clear systems were developed for many reasons,including greatly increased durability,higher gloss(especially in metallics)and easier application(sprayability)characteristics for the car mfgr.Hope this helps.

[n20ta2]

exactly what paulatfast said,if I was going to try it it would have to be done to the entire car and just from my experience it comes out silvery.It may be worth trying by a proffesional if he just couldnt live with the current results,the worse that could happen is it just may need a respray.

[65Mark]

I'll add my 2 cents here.

Metallic paint is a mixture of color and metal (or synthetic) particles, along with binders etc.. The metallic like Paul says is usually aluminum (silver) or other "flakes" that give the sparkle. The semi-transparent color covers those "flakes" but don't hide them. Much like a "tint" on your windows. When you sand or buff you remove some of the "tint" and the flakes show more, and if you sand the "tint" off the flake will be sitting at the top, untinted. I don't care how evenly the paint is put on you will not be able to cut and rub SS metallic and have it look right, it will be blotchy.

I wasn't painting in the 60's, but I was in the 70's and I have done a lot of acrylic enamel as well as synthetic (alkyd) enamel single stage metallics, you either get it right the first time or you cut and respray. Period.

The good part is, if he used a hardener in the paint, you can cut it and spray right over it. If you want a perfectly flat paint job put a clear over the second paint job.

A lot of the OEM lacquers were a re flow lacquer, once sprayed it went in to an oven and the heat would "re flow" the paint to make it laydown and gloss up. By adding a retarder in laquer and putting it on wet you "can" get a shine straight from the gun.

Hope this helps! Good luck.

Relic from the 70's..