[Discoquik]

I just purchased a S/E Gold on Gold T/A with Fischer T-tops. It is a 400 Auto with 91,000 miles. It was originally a NC car and has rust in usual places in the quarters and quarter sized holes in the fenders various "primer repair' (read rattle can body shop). They needless applied primer in areas below the belt line and quarter panels The right rear frame rail has a 1/2 hole as well. The rest of the car is amazingly clean and plating can still be seen on the components underneath. The floor boards look nice as well as the trunk being mint. It has the quasi-dual Y-pipe and someone had put a single exhaust on it.

It has a unknown rebuilt 400 that was never installed completely in the car now. The original 400 came with the car. The dash is mint suprisingly. The rest of the interior would need some work. Overall the car is suprisingly original as are the snowflakes.
It also came with three 15" Honeycombs as well as numerous Pontiac engine parts.

This guy bought it with the original engine smoking badly. Rather than investigate, he just yanked the motor with a come-a-long (breaking the A/C box in the process) and started to put the rebuilt 400 in....that was Summer of 2000. The peoject never got any further than one bolt in the trans and two bolts slid in the motor mounts. This is how I purchased it. It has had one repaint but has all the S/E striping and Bird.

I have located the last owner and he is filing for a lost title for me, the seller never transferred the title and lost it. So I should be getting a title in the near future as the last owner is a car guy and is willing to help me out as quickly as possible.

I have a 70 Firebird I am knee deep in at the moment and bought this to avoid it from going to waste on Craigslist and wind up in a junkyard. Also the Honeycombs were supposed to be complete and all four present. They would have went well on my 70. The other 400 would have been a nice upgrade to my 350 as well. Anyway, what is this car worth in it's current state (not running, minimal rust issues, but definitely looks to be driveable)? The former owner confirmed it was a NC car and the plumbing underneath would confirm that has it is in excellent shape. I would love to keep it as my Dad had a 77 and 79 before his 73 SD, but I really need to stick to finishing the 70. I may have to sell this as I don't want to be the guy with the "I'm gonna fix it one day" car in his yard.
I will get some pics ASAP. Just would like some input on what it is worth (with title of course) generally speaking.

[bobzdar]

2k as it sits, maybe 4k if you get it running/driving nicely? You'll end up into it more than it's worth if you do a full resto, so your best bet is to get it running with minimal investment and try to turn a quick profit unless it's a car you really want. That'd be about my ideal cruiser so if it were me I'd keep it and address the major issues and maybe do paint/interior and then just drive it and enjoy.

[Alvin]

IMHO Value would be driven up or down by and depend on:

Is it a real Y-88 SE via documentation Build Sheet / PHS etc?

W72 400 220 hp or L78 400 185 hp

Is the original block and heads #'s matching still with the car?

T-top or not? If so, still retain the special Y-88 only gold tinted t-tops?

Is it a WS6 (8" wide snowflakes) or the standard 7"?

Just a few items that come to mind that usually will dictate what the car will bring and how you can market it.

[Discoquik]

I appreciate the input. I realize without seeing the car firsthand it is a tough call. I actually don't enjoy these types of threads, especially without pics, because it really is hard to accurately give any good advice via the net. Too many things can not be seen in pics that you will see in person. But again thanks for the input.

It is hard to put it up for sale, it is my second favorite "style" of 2nd Gen, the 70-73 being my first pick. I am well on my way to completion on the 70 and I hate to let this 78 sit any longer than it has. I REALLY would keep it if it was a Martinque blue/Black cloth combo, but I am trying to be sensible about it and not be selfish as there is someone out there that would restore it properly and sooner than I can. It could easily be a "fun" driver but with the rarity of these cars nowadays it deserves a full resto.

To answer a few questions...

It is a real Y-88 S/E with T-tops

15x8 snowflakes WS-6

original motor is out of the car but present. Trans is original as well. Rearend looks to be untouched original as well.

W72 220HP motor

With that being said, I would love to keep it and so would my Dad. LOL He had 4 2nd gens through the years. We are now heavy on the Mopars but have a soft spot for any Pontiac. We still go to the Pontiac show at Norwalk every year. My Dragster has always had a Firebird on the nose and SD565 decals on the hood scoop. Most people don't get it.....

But I really think it needs a good home and to be out of the elements. I have it covered on a trailer outside at the present time and don't want it to be out any longer than it has to. Suprisingly, the T-tops and windows didn't leak when I washed it...

[Ben M.]

In my opinion the real deal killer for many people is the frame rail rot. Quarters and fenders rusting are ugly and unsightly, but frame rail rot is very difficult to repair cheaply and effectively, not to mention that if it has rust issues on one frame rail the rest need some serious inspection even if they look fine right now. No trunk or floor pan rot is nice, but like I said that frame rail would still be a major red flag in my book. Having no title means I would not buy it as anything more than parts, $500-1000 tops if I got both engines and all of the other little parts as well.

Being a true SE is a bonus, having the #'s matching block, heads, and the original gold tinted t-tops makes it a bonus. Running, with title, I'd be inclined to think maybe $1500 with rotten frame rail and rusty body. These cars in good shape are worth money, but in this economy people aren't going to take a gamble on a potential structurally rusty car.

[Discoquik]

Thanks for your thoughts. The underside of this car is truly clean, that is what is so odd about the one spot having rust because there isn't any scaly rust on the frame or components of this thing. It reminds of a southern car in a GA junkyard that a clump of mud rotted a small spot in the frame. It looks like that one spot rusted from the inside out about a half dollar in diameter before it is solid. I will post pics tonight or tomorrow to help paint a proper picture. Thanks again for the input.

[Discoquik]

Here are some pics

[Discoquik]

Here are some more

[bobzdar]

If that truly is the only bad spot on the frame rail, it's an easy to get to spot that should be easily repairable. The body doesn't look bad, you should be able to make it a nice driver for a couple grand in interior parts and a some labor on the body if it's mechanically sound.

[transamfan1981]

I like the disco ball on the rear view mirror.
Your lucky finding a true Y-88 gold edition T/A
Good luck with the car.
Steve

[Discoquik]

Finally received the title for her today. Gonna try to get it running and it will be for sale.

[ZR 900]

How do you fix a spot on the frame like that? I have a 78 black SE that has a similar problem.

[druidrv]

Frame rails rot from the inside out. The best way to fix it is to replace it. It is a pain and labor intensive, but doable to the average restorer. I have done many of these as it is a common problem.