[pontiac_banshee]

I am looking for a picture of the dash mounted Mallory RevPol switch. It was a bracket, blue light and switch. I want to reproduce one for my car so I need a detailed pic if someone has one.

[pontiac_banshee]

One more re-visit to see if anyone has one of these. Blue light and switch.

[pontiac_banshee]

Need pic if anyone has seen one of these

[pontiac_banshee]

FOUND IT:


Anyone know a company that might be able to reproduce this?

[pontiacstogo]

Originally Posted by pontiac_banshee

FOUND IT:


Anyone know a company that might be able to reproduce this?

I would think a good engraver (you know, trophies, name tags etc.) could reproduce the face plate.

[69geeto]

To reverse polarity, you need a 2P2T switch. A total of 6 contacts. Two common, and the outside two are crossed to the other outside two.
If you need more info, email. It's pretty easy.
Stu

[pontiac_banshee]

From the pic of the back of the bracket it looks as though it is just a single pole single throw switch. All it does is bypass the resistor that came with the setup. Once you threw the switch it would send straight 12 volt to the distributor. The light was connected to the switch and the ground and it was just that simple.

[Jack Gifford]

banshee- you should probably enlighten the uninformed about how the Mallory Rev-Pol works, so they'd see how it got that name.

[pontiac_banshee]

Not 100% sure. I thought all it did was bypass the ballast resistor and give the dual points 12 volts instead of what the ballast resistor stepped it down to. I am not aware why the Rev_Pol name. I would assume it meant Reverse Polarity but not sure how/why.



Never even thought about it until you mentioned it. I am just looking for a fake one for that nostalgic look now not functionally so I really did not think about it.

[Jack Gifford]

I'll need to look for old sales blurbs about the RevPol. But I remember the basic principle- every other cylinder firing reversed the direction of current flow in the primary of the coil. This was to overcome the high-RPM limitation of normal ignition systems, where the magnetic field doesn't have time to fully collapse in the coil before the next ignition cycle begins. I don't know how well they worked- can't recall any independent testing of them. I also can't remember how they implemented the scheme. If I find any info, I'll post it.
That under-dash switch was not really tied in with their patented RevPol ignition- it could be used with any points/coil ignition, merely switching the ballast resistor out of the coil primary circuit for 'race' (but fry the coil if left idling or slow-running too long in 'race').

[pontiac_banshee]

I found a company to reproduce these. $10 to $15 each plus the cost that would divided up for the setup charge. These would be on blue aluminum just like the pics.

Great conversation piece for your 60 70 car

[Jack Gifford]

I hope I provided enough background for you to be able to converse about RevPol stuff!
(Still looking for old articles/ads)

[pontiac_banshee]

Anyone interested in a repro of this? Have engraver that will do it. Around $60

[pontiac_banshee]

Rev-Pol for that 70's look

[pontiac_banshee]

Anyone see one of these for sale anywhere?

My understanding from my old flathead days (a 48 merc engine with mallory magspark ign). To increase the output of the standard coil they reversed the polarity thru the primary near the end of each firing. If you understand magnetic fields and transformers, that caused a VERY hi -collapse rate- for the field in the primary coil and thus a V E R Y high voltage spark at the secondary side. As I recall from the early 50's it was maybe twice as much voltage to the the spark plug.
The switching done in those days was inside the distributor itself tho - special points and breaker plate.

It made quite a difference in the performance of my PADAR built 47 Ford. Back then before my ET school days I took Dick Padars word for a lot of this (??)

If this switch bypasses the ballast resistor (and that makes a lot of sense) it should only be used as the tag says for race not for street. Continual use (full 12V) will burn out the coil primary. The potting material can melt and then the wires short out.

Try it for a few seconds (maybe 10-20) and then feel the coil housing it will be hotter than normal.. A strip run would be less than 10/15sec and then you switch back for the return trip, let it cool down ready for the next run.

[pontiac_banshee]

The kit I bought back then had the distributor switch and hi performance coil. Still looking for a switch if anyone has one for sale.