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#1
08-21-2009, 07:36 AM
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OIL PUMP ROD
Any body seen this before. Check the pics. Number 1 and 2 toast.
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#2
08-21-2009, 07:40 AM
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We've seen this before. Probably wasn't a hardened shaft. You can buy hardened shafts from Butler, etc.
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#3
08-21-2009, 09:00 AM
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Oil drive rod/ Pontiac Gregg
I offer the heat treated ones. Made in the U.S.A. !! 1 Hamilton will get you one.
1-303-776-0877 Pontiac Gregg
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Greg Merrick |
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#4
08-21-2009, 07:16 PM
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Check out this one.I use them in my race engine
http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/...Oil/Detail.bok |
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#5
08-21-2009, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
In other guys engines,sure. Honestly I'm surprised I (or should I say,we) dont see it more often,I guess guys are learning how important a good pump blueprinting can be,and how to keep debris from being sucked into the pump and locking it up. I get my shafts from POP (precision oil pumps). precisionoilpumps.com HTH Bret P. |
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#6
08-21-2009, 10:13 PM
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OIL PUMP SHAFT
Has anybody tried the one nitemare performance has? It has a sleeve on it.
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#7
08-22-2009, 07:38 AM
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Check out this oil shaft of Scott Sims about half way down the page
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...390936&page=12
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 1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's
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#8
08-27-2009, 09:26 AM
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I'm thinking on doing a 400 block with a 4.75 crank?
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#9
08-27-2009, 02:42 PM
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This same thing happened to me a few weeks ago, the ears sheared off. I bought mine from Tin Indian performance, and it was supposed to be heavy duty. Ace installed it when he built my motor. I was running the 80 lb melling pump and Rotella 15W-40. This time around I've selected a Precision pumps blueprinted 10540 (60 lbs) and a Precision billet intermediate shaft and will be running 10W-30.
Not sure what caused it to fail early? Only had 4K miles on it. Haven't looked at my mains or rods yet. How did your cam bearings look? The story behind mine was that I was on a backroad turning about 2200 RPM in third and heard a ping, thought I hit something in the street so drove on and a few hundred feet later I hear the valvetrain get real noisy. I immediately looked down at the oil pressure gauged and saw it sitting at zero. Shut the motor off, put the car in neutral and coasted to the side of the road and waited on a tow. Motor is out now with the oil pan off ready to be inspected. How did your story unfold? Looks like it might have been at highway speed or ran for a bit after the fact?
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1967 GTO Tyrol Blue/Blk Cordova 400, TKO-600, 8.2 Posi w/3.55 400 + .020, decked to .005 SD Performance 240+CFM 670 heads RARE HO/RA manifolds RARE 2.5" Exhaust (18" Magnaflows) SD "Stump Puller" HR cam (230/236, 112LSA, 107.5 ICL) PRW stainless 1.52 roller rockers Forged TRW slugs SCAT H-Beam forged rods Last edited by GTOGreg; 08-27-2009 at 02:59 PM. |
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#10
08-27-2009, 03:52 PM
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Well gtogreg mine was just about DITTOOOO of yours. I was doing 3000 rpm heard all the rockers looked at the gauge it was 0, turned it off and coasted to the side of the road called my buddy he brought his trailer. I took pics of it, crank got hot spun the crank bearings, no. 1 & 2 rods bearings flattened out and the rods got hot. Cam bearings look good and the other rod bearings look ok with some ware. I know I don't have 5000 miles on it. It will be some time before I get another motor together. I'm going to look at doing a 400 with a 4.75 crank ! ! maybe.
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#11
08-28-2009, 12:19 AM
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Sorry man, that sucks (as it does for me). But since you got it down that far why not just turn the crank and replace the bearings. Does the whole rotating assy have to be rebalanced? Just thinking to keep it simple. It is enticing while the motor out to do things that I regretted not doing the first time, but then again it still takes as much money as it did the first time around
 . I just want my car back on the road.BTW, if I do have to replace bearings I think I'm going coated this time to maybe give a little defense against this sorta thing in the future. I'm also going to put an oil pressure shut-off switch tied into the ignition. Live and learn.
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1967 GTO Tyrol Blue/Blk Cordova 400, TKO-600, 8.2 Posi w/3.55 400 + .020, decked to .005 SD Performance 240+CFM 670 heads RARE HO/RA manifolds RARE 2.5" Exhaust (18" Magnaflows) SD "Stump Puller" HR cam (230/236, 112LSA, 107.5 ICL) PRW stainless 1.52 roller rockers Forged TRW slugs SCAT H-Beam forged rods |
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