[bradkline]

I have a '66 Bonneville and about three remote mirrors I purchased over the years. I mounted the best one on my car but it still has a tired appearance from a chrome plating standpoint.

Has anyone taken one apart had the mount and the shell part re-chromed and successfully got the directional cables re-installed in the pot metal holder?

I saw there is another post here for earlier 60's cars and that seemed to be the tough part. I experimented on the worse one and tried to punch the pot metal to hold the cables but couldn't get them tight.

I just know one of you guys has figured out how to do it and is willing to share it with the rest.

Thanks, Brad Kline

[66Post]

I fiddled with one in my collection with similar results. I also called a number of chrome restoration shops and no one would mess with the disassembly.
I'll be watching to see what info might show up. I'll pay for the dissassembly, rechome and reassembly.
Rich

[67droptop]

I called Paul's Chrome and for and additional $50 they are doing mind for a 67 GTO. When I get it back I will post the results!

[Txbobcat]

I tried and failed I disassembled the cable from the control and reasembled but it wouldnt control the mirror as before. Perhaps 1arm of the cable goes on a specific arm of the lever. If so fingernail polish each post and that cable a different color so they can go back exactly as they were and let us know if that works

[Deadhead]

You have to match up the correct cable with the correct controller locataion. If you misplace them, you can look on the back of the mirror where they attach some years have the corresponding letter to the correct color on the Alum. backing & you can trace the cable back & if there is still some coding color left on your controller you can match them up again.

The only way to remove from the controller is to carefully open the pot metal to where the cable (not the jacket) can be pulled out (by pushing the mirror in) and slip the cable itself through the slot. Much easier with 2 people. The pot metal usually does not tolerate this, so you have to repair with JB & get creative. I did do this successfully years ago, but it was really only luck that made it so I did not have to JB it back in. Worked for 10 years after the repair. If you could use the guts from a '63 or similar year it would be a huge improvement since the works on those controllers are really nice quality. I have not looked carefully, but I don't see how it could be adapted.