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#1
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1966 Bonneville top leaks into trunk ?
I had my top replaced years ago. Everytime the car gets wet the trunk fills with water. Granted I live in Tucson but it has finally gotten OLD.
Is there a factory manual on how to replace/install a big car top that explains 'sealing' on the lower edge? Comments? Trunk hot tub jokes? Gladly accepted. Ed S |
#2
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There should be a drain channel that runs along the rim where the top goes into the trunk. This in turn should drain into the wheel wells ( I am pretty sure the 66 drains there ). Make sure the tube is not plugged up or you will just be turning that trunk into a portable rain barrel.
-Harry
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Sold - 1967 Grand Prix Convertible ( http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=639110 ) 2003 Bonneville coupe (hers) 2007 Avalanche LTZ 4x4 |
#3
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What Harry said.
It should be covered somewhere in the factory shop manual (or manuals - I'm not sure if there was just one manual or several for 1966.) If you can locate the drain hoses, root them out with something to make sure they're not clogged. A piece of nylon line from a weed wacker/string trimmer will work, it's stiff enough to push down the hose but not so stiff that it will damage things. |
#4
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A speedometer cable also works well too. It is nice and flexible but still rigid enough to push any clogs through.
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#5
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The channel going across the rear of the trunk area could be leaking, because of seam cracks and rust holes.
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#6
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The chassis manual does not cover this. So...........I guess you'll find me in the trunk this weekend. Should I bring a pillow?
Ed |
#7
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It's probably covered in the body manual, then. I just checked and there were separate manuals in 1966.
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#8
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Convertible top drain channel
My top has been on the car for many years however I had the same problem. I finally crawed in the trunk and pushed the top well bag up (top in up position ) so I could see or more correctly stated feel the inside of the drain channel. Turns out it was full to the top with dirt and debris that had accumulated over the years so the only place for the water draining from the top to go was in the trunk. I don't think there are any drain hoses per se but rather the channels simply ends far enough down that it drains water into the area just below the rear quarter windows and out the drain flappers.
Brad Kline |
#9
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The top allows water to drain down between the top fabric and the edge of the trunk panel. It falls into a metal channel which goes right down to the forward area of the lowest part of the rear wheel arch.
The metal channel is fairly light gauge and will rust out if gunk is allowed to build up. I do think the channel is galvanised although I can't be sure about that. All in all, it's not really a brilliant system although longevity was probably never in the equation when these cars were designed. Fairly important you make sure that channel is clean and if it's rusting, seal it up to prevent further deteriorisation. Ian
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To laugh at men of sense is the privilege of fools. |
#10
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There is a J shaped channel that runs along the edge of the trunk/top. The vertical part of the J is where the top and well bolt/mount to. The curved part fo the J should channel any water down to infront of the wheel wells, down through the floor boards.
If I'v seen it once, I've seen it a 1000 times: I'll be you a beer that the curved part of the J is rusted, likely on both sides, right were the top/trunk filler panel curve out to the side quarter panels. Lay on your back in the trunk, with a flash light and take your fingers and fell the entire length of the channel. I'm pretty sure you'll find rust holes, -r-
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Never trust anything that bleeds for five days and won't die. |
#11
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Assuming the channel is full of holes. How would I gain access with the top in place?
I can play with this over the weekend, but if anyone has done this before the insight would be greatly appreciated. Ed S |
#12
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Found the corners to be rusted out. I will clean and try to repair with epoxy and light gauge metal. Hard to maintain, I can't see any of these being in good condition. Just not a good design.
Ed S |
#13
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This is going by memory so don't take it as gospel - the rear edge of the convertible top should be held in place against the body with a series of nuts and bolts. You may have to push the well cover up out of the way to see them. You should be able to remove the bolts and lift up the back edge of the top without messing up its alignment to the car, and this should give you better access to the rain gutter.
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#14
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Took the tail end of the top out of the way. Thank you Stuart.
Check out photo. They had both been patched with chaulk(?) before. So I did it again with silicon. Comments? Should I throw some paint in there as well? Ed S |
#15
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Paint will not stick to silicone. Glass shop guys have always told me not to use silicone on steel. They claim it promotes rust. Have gotten the same from metal roofing guys.
I know it is too late, but sticky butyl caulk is better for this application. Not easier to use for sure.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#16
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Yea, I looked for some seam sealer I might have had left over. Dried up. So ended up using ACRYLIC LATEX caulk plus SILICONE, Paintable. Seems like it should stick. Already put some paint on. Will let dry overnight and then try to float a boat down the J channel in the morning to check for leaks. Does it drain in front of the wheel or behind? I can check the area behind the wheel, I just can't see where the channel ends up near the front of the wheel.
Also, would like to note that my installer left some extra top material on the tack beam which may have created little damns. Trimmed those out of the way as well. Ed S |
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