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#1
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Proper Head Gasket Thickness
I just received the newly machined crank back, and installed it back into my short block that was decked to my old crank specs (....long story....) The new crank isn't as exact as the old one, but it should work I think.
My deck height varies from -.001 to +.006 out of the hole. 1 - -.001 2 - .000 3 - +.003 4 - +.004 5 - +.005 6 - +.006 7 - +.003 8 - +.003 What thickness head gasket should I target? .045? What is the optimal clearance between a piston and the head? I'm running a 400, nodular crank, forged h-beam rods, forged pistons (12.5 cc), and cast "13" heads (75cc). Thanks. |
#2
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Felpro 1033's crush to advertised .039 and I would be comfortable there for a street/strip deal.
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68 Firebird, trying a q-jet now. 434/10.5:1/997's/240-242 HFT/4L80E/2800 Yank/3.42's/ Vintage Air/ 13.0 @105 mph 70 Lemans, 350/350, A/C, mostly stock 14 Ram CC, 5.7 Hemi, 8-speed, 3.92 lsd 97 Trans Am, HPP Aug 2012 http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...tiac_trans_am/ ***Sold*** |
#3
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I think if you target the proper compression ratio for pump gas on your combo here, you will be okay with piston-to-head clearance or "quench." I would plug an average +.003" deck height into a CR calculator and play with the gasket value until you hit 9.5 SCR (or whatever number you're going for). Hopefully you already have a good idea if the motor in-car was prone to detonation as/was, or if it can tolerate more squeeze.
Many will warn against going over 9.5 to 1 SCR with iron heads. But IMHO that is an "idiot proof" number and it depends how careful a tuner you are. I have a feeling you'll end up around .050" for gasket thickness, but I haven't run the numbers. |
#4
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Quote:
"idiots" have no problem getting an engine to ping a way less than 9.5 to 1 SCR. ;^) i wouldn't sweet the head gasket thickness for a street engine. with the basic fel pro, you still have over .030 clearence. now, if your going to turn it upwards of 7K rpm, that's another story. |
#5
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I'd think that .030" clearance won't be any problem with steel rods. My aluminum BME rods stated .070" minimum piston/head clearance.
Many of us certainly wouldn't consider 9.5:1 "idiot proof". Especially with a lousy batch of gas on a hot summer day. Pump gas in our area is 91 octane, and it's all down hill from the posted number. I've seen too many engines that had to be "tuned" by backing the timing down to 28°, and jetting the carb pig rich. Why take the gamble on the half point of compression that might give 2% more horsepower? If the engine has to be backed down on timing there could easily be a 10% horsepower loss.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#6
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If its the way the crank was cut that is creating those stroke differences showing up then I would be fretting way more over how the rod and main jurnals where cut and what their run out may be lke!!
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#7
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I wouldn't worry about the gasket thickness on SCR, as much as quench. Sacrificing quench for compression you could end up with the opposite affect than desired (more tendancy towards detonation).
With the nodular crank, forged rods and pistons, quality rod bolts, and assuming redline less than 6500rpm, a minimum of .033" clearance should be safe. Since your tightest allowable quench distance is dictated by .006" piston out of the hole, shoot for a .039" to .044" gasket thickness. The engine may like 1 or 2 degrees less total timing due to a more efficient combustion due to the improved quench.
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
#8
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Excellent information so far.
The "13" heads were milled approx .010 (...another long story...). Without sounding like a total idiot, if at full valve lift, do the bottom of the vavles come close to extending beyond the head surface if you've milled the head? So, would your head gasket thickness consideration take head milling into consideration, or does the valve stay far enough in the chamber so that it's not a factor? |
#9
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wow..just wow..
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#10
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The valves will come down the additional .010" towards the piston. You were probably far from critical before, and that .010" won't make a difference. Doesn't hurt to place some modeling clay in the piston valve reliefs with the heads secured by a couple bolts and the intake and exhaust valve train hooked up on the cylinder with the highest piston. Then just turn it over by hand a couple of revolutions and take everything back apart. Take a razorblade and cut the clay at the most compressed area and take your measurement. I use .080" intake and .100" exhaust clearance as a minimum. I'll take a guess and say that you will still have over .200" clearance even with the head mill.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
#12
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Did I miss something obvious that this response was directed towards?
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#13
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Getting conflicting info. The local old school Pontiac guy tells me to leave at least .042 between the piston and the head, so he told me I needed to get a .055 gasket.
Is there a reason why I would need to have .042 clearance? Or is that only when you are pushing 6k+ rpm on the track? I trust old Barney with his info, I'm just looking for a reason why he would recommend the gasket that would seem too thick. My numbers if I used the following gaskets: .045 Gasket ----------- 9.51 - 9.65 CR .039 - .046 quench .055 Gasket ----------- 9.32 - 9.45 CR .049 - .056 quench Last edited by trauschu; 10-14-2010 at 01:04 PM. |
#14
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I once built a chevy cirlce track engine that had the pistons .005 out of the hole and used a .038 head gastket. When I took it down for a rebuild the piston heads had marks that looked like they were hitting the heads and the pins were extremely loose. You have to compensate for piston rock, rod expansion, and clearance. I put on .046 gaskets and fixed it.
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#15
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Old Barney may be thinking of a standard quench "rule." Another old-timer, Smokey Yunick, recommended .040 as a minimum with steel rods and forged pistons (which do rock in the bore, as track73 said). Now, if all blocks came zero-decked that would be a safe number to "keep the head off the piston." As it is, many (SBCs) come from the factory at .020 to .025" in the hole, so you could actually get away with a .018 steel shim head gasket for optimal quench--which the factory did.
In your particular case, it seems the .045 gasket will put you where you want to be for BOTH compression ratio AND quench (assuming you've calculated right). My 9.5 as an "idiot proof" iron-head SCR comment above should have included a stipulation to use 93 octane--and they're right, some idiots will have that pinging away regardless. What I mean is, if I were selling iron heads to the public, 9.5 would be the highest I'd allow under warranty, with disclaimers as to engine heat, timing, and about 20 other factors. BTW, I thought #13 heads had 72cc chambers, and if yours are decked .010, they're even smaller. Any chamber work? CC'd or just a guess? |
#16
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I did do some mods to the chambers to open up the lower side to allow for better breathing.
Here is a pic: http://www.1969fb.com/pics/1977Trans...ChamberMod.JPG From what I read here, the #13 actually have 77-80 chambers, and that is exactly what I had before I had to mill them down. After milling the heads, I did CC every chamber, and they all come in at 75-76. I used a drill press and took out .100 between the center valve eyelashes on my forged speedpro pistons to increase the piston dish CC from 6 to 12.5. That was CC'ed too. So, my compression calculations are based on the 75 head chamber and the 12.5 cc custom dish. I didn't factor in the extra 1 cc on some of the chambers, since that is a lower number and less of a problem. Last edited by trauschu; 10-14-2010 at 05:42 PM. |
#17
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i agree with the above said.
just what are your options for head gaskets and at what price? if you can get reasonabley priced good gaskets that will have a crush thickness to put you at an optimal quench distance, that's what i'd be shooting for and let actual static compression fall where it may. on the other hand, if those gaskets cost a few hundred dollars by themselves, i'd go with a good quality gasket and be a little tight or loose on the quench. |
#18
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Speaking of pinging must be the gas formula both my 350 Vortec truck and my wife; Avalanche have the pings bad this week, and they have knock sensors to retard the timing!
I think the "Butler" head gaskets are thicker than the Felpros. You can also get Cometics in various thicknesses.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#19
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First, why is the piston height all over the place? Was the block square decked? Not decked, but squared with the crank centerline? The .039" gasket thickness is fine, just use a Victor or another brand that has a boree closer to the engine bore with valve/chamber reliefs. The 4.300" opening on a fel-pro is way too much of a "ping" causer.
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