[Traker82]

I just installed the TC from Cliff and I had a question.

Since the ears of the TC are not threaded I am using grade 8 nut and bolt to attach to the fly wheel. Should I use locktite to keep the nut from vibrating off?

also I know I am not supposed to slide the TC all the way back because it will damage the pump, and when I move it forward it is flush on the flywheel, where do I measure the gap between the trans and the TC to be 1/8 of an in.? I am asking so I know if I need to shim or not.

[Dustin68]

Measure the distance with the TC fully seated in the pump. With an aftermarket TC, you'll most likely have to shim it with one or two grade 8 washers. Ideally you end up with a 1/8" gap between the flexplate and TC lugs before you bolt it up.

[tc]

I had the same question. This is from Peter at CTC.
You can use grade 8 bolts with lock washers and lock tight on the bolts.
Also put about 1 quart of ATF in the converter before installing into the
trans.

[lust4speed]

I've talked to a number of trans guys that say they never bother to add any fluid to the converter before sliding it on. They say that the converter parts are lubed before the case halves are welded together. I'm chicken, and always add the quart to the converter.

I have had a few lock washers break on the drag car converter, and have had better results using nothing but the bolt and nut secured with Loctite.

[Traker82]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I've talked to a number of trans guys that say they never bother to add any fluid to the converter before sliding it on. They say that the converter parts are lubed before the case halves are welded together. I'm chicken, and always add the quart to the converter.

I have had a few lock washers break on the drag car converter, and have had better results using nothing but the bolt and nut secured with Loctite.

I was thinking the same about the lock washers and the stress, so I will try the locktite and test it every few days.

As for the meassurements sorry for asking again but I want to be sure. Are you suggesting it is better to use one set of washers so there is a space between the TC and flywheel? Where do I measure so the TC isn't in the tranny to far.

When I put in the TC I didn't add any fluid, what should I do/?

[lust4speed]

Don't worry about the converter, it will be fine without adding fluid.

Just to clear up a possible misconception on the measurement. What they say is to not run the combination with the converter pushed into trans. When you set things up, you do fully seat the converter completely as far back as it can go into the trans. After installing the trans, a perfect distance would be 1/8" from the converter tangs to the flexplate with the converter still all the way back. Then you would simply pull the converter forward against the flexplate and bolt things up. If the distance is not 1/8", but greater, then you need to use washers to reduce the total distance down to 1/8" before pulling it up. Too much distance and there is a possibility of pulling the converter out of the pump, or at least not having enough contact area.

There's a correct way to do things like using a hardened washer the correct size, and then there's the night before the race where anything goes to get the car done for tomorrow. I've used Grade 5 bolts and stacked normal washers "to get by", and then forgot all about them until the next time the trans was pulled for freshening. If the bolts are properly torqued and remain tight, there isn't a tremendous load on them since all the pressure is in shear. If they come loose, then even Grade 8's can be subject to failure.

[Cliff R]

The biggest difference between using grade 5 and grade 8 bolts and nuts is the torque value and ability (memory) of the fastener to sustain the torque value once stretched out. The higher quality and grade rating of the fastener, the better it's going to be to maintain the torque and load and not come loose once placed in service. The higher grade fasteners will also have a higher torque rating.

I don't have a chart in front of me, but for grade 8 fasteners, the torque for 7/16" is up near 60 ft lbs, 3/8" down around 45 ft lbs.

We use, and highly recomend, 7/16" grade 8 bolts with nuts (fine thread) for holding the 10" Continental torque converters in place. Make sure to use hardened washers as well, as a soft washer isn't a good idea when used where you are counting on the torque applied to the fastener to keep it from loosening up......Cliff

[Overkillphil]

I never used "lockwashers" on a TC, only good quality flat washers and some loctite on the bolt threads.

Lockwashers just seem like a recipe for failure in this particular application.

[Traker82]

I want to use a washer, not a spacers but one on the head of the bolt on the engine side of the Flywheel. Now that I look at it, I don't think I need a spacer.

[b-man]

Never use a split or star lock washer, or any kind of lock washer.

7/16-20 Grade 8 hardware with hardened flat washers only, use blue or red Loctite on the threads.

Take note that the high-torque fasteners on your engine such as head bolts, main cap bolts and rod bolts don't use any lock washers either, and all for a good reason.

[Matt Meaney]

would a stover nut work for this application?

while the bolts are clearly marked on the head for there grade, how do you determine the grade of a nut or if a washer is hardened?

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

We use, and highly recomend, 7/16" grade 8 bolts with nuts (fine thread) for holding the 10" Continental torque converters in place. Make sure to use hardened washers as well, as a soft washer isn't a good idea when used where you are counting on the torque applied to the fastener to keep it from loosening up......Cliff

My 10" Continental has holes that are the correct tap drill size for 7/16-20... so I simply tapped the holes and threaded the bolts directly into the converter. The pads are about 3/4" thick, so there is plenty of thread engagement. I use flat washers with grade-8 7/16-20 bolts.

[Tim Corcoran]

I use grade 8 fine thread bolts, grade 8 washers for shims and use grade 8 self locking nuts. I also use blue loctite on the bolt threads during assembly. I do not use washers under the bolt head or the under the nut. Might be an over kill but it gives me some piece of mind.