FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
69 GTO Body Mount Bushiings
69 GTO Body Mount Bushiings
Does anyone know where I can find detailed information on how to access, remove, and replace old worn out body bushings? I have never done this so I need step by step details. For example, does the car need to be on lift? Wheels on ground? Engine lifted or seats removed? Etc.. Etc... |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I did mine about 8-10 years ago. One side at a time and the car on the ground. It was an amazingly nasty job. I was lucky in that all of my bolts came loose fairly easily. I loosened them (after soaking them with penetrant) and then lifted one side of the body at a time with a floor jack. I used a length of 4x4 on the jack head to spread the load out. I probably posted a thread about the job back then, I'll see if I can find it when I get a minute on something other than this iPhone.
__________________
frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Are they special bolts? I have never encountered a bolt that my air powered impact wrench can't get out. Did you find your previous post that would really be helpful. Thanks for the info.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Found it, but not much info. Turns out I did have a broken bolt...before I started. Careful with the impact. If you pop the weld nuts loose from the floorpan you'll be pulling the carpet up and cutting holes in the floor to fix them. Patience works well.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ght=body+mount Search body mount bushings (or other terms that fit what you are doing) in the archives. Spend a little time with the search and you will find a wealth of info. It doesn't really need to be your specific car to find the does and don'ts of your project. You'll find how to do it, what other people have run into and how they worked around their problems etc. I did it with a floor jack, PB Blaster, a piece of 4X4 and basic tools. And like now, I was completely clueless when I started and I got it done. Have fun.
__________________
frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. Last edited by David Jones; 03-03-2013 at 12:31 PM. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Good info,I will be doing the same project this summer on my 69GTO (
__________________
color me gone |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Poly Body Mounts???
Please forgive the thread hijacking but it looks like the poster has some answers to run with and the topic is right in line with this thread. I did some research last night and found only a handful of posts. Most were several years old. Does anyone have any experience with installing polyurethane body mounts? I've been looking into them and it looks like most vendors only offer rubber, OPGI is probably the best, and only a few sell Poly kits. Looks like PST and Energy Suspension were the only two that sell them. Has anyone installed a set and had a good experience? Based on the fact that the poly sets don't come with any sleeves hardware etc... and that the bushings must be located in a specific spot I am leaning towards a good rubber set just to down on installation problems. If someone has had a good experience and can recommend a vendor/part number, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks!!
__________________
Jimmy www.firebirdgallery.com 2002 WS6 M6 Trans Am - original owner 1973 Trans Am 455/4-speed 1971 Formula 400/400 1969 GTO 400/400 - 3rd owner 1968 Firebird Convertible 350/200R4 POCI - AAC |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
The nuts aren't welded in. There is a little sheet metal cage around the nuts that are welded in the channels of the body. On 40 plus year old iron, the cages will break if you look at them too hard. So, I second the notion to not use your impact on these. Location and condition of your car will factor into this repair. If your car sat outside in the rust belt or up north for much of it's life, then you will probably break every cage nut you have. If your car was garage kept in an area that only knows snow if it's on a postcard, then the process DJ described could be all you need.
I wasn't lucky with mine, as my 69 spent most of it's life in Colorado and Ohio. I had to cut through my floor boards on just about every bolt. Basically I cut 3 sides of a square and bent back the flap, did what I needed to do, then re-welded the flap back shut.
__________________
The joker in the deck keeps sending me his card. Smiling friendly, he takes me in. Then breaks my back in a game I can't win. Last edited by 69goatboy; 03-04-2013 at 05:34 PM. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
does anyone have a print out of the bodymonts location on a 69 GTO?
__________________
color me gone |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This one is for a G-Body, but it's pretty close. Although, I don't think an A-Body has bushings on the top hump over the rear wheels (#5 in the pic). Also note that some kits do NOT include the bushings for the core support.
__________________
The joker in the deck keeps sending me his card. Smiling friendly, he takes me in. Then breaks my back in a game I can't win. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I changed mine when I did a frame off resto a few years back. My car was an Atlanta car that had spent its entire life in North Alabama. I had no problems getting bolts out. I never did find any torque specs or info on how tight the bolts should be. Seems like I tightened until the rubber started to bulge out from washer but can't remember. Does anyone know how tight the bolts should be?
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
How easy it will be to remove the body mount bolts depends on where the car was driven. On a rusted northern car probably some will break. I've done it on 3 A bodies and about half snapped each time. It may help to locate each bolt from inside the car first and soak it in solvent for awhile. It will be necessary to drill a small hole in the floor. The bolts are not hard to snap id you have a long enough extension, especially if they're rusted in half like the ones I've seen. BTW, yes, there are body mount bushings on a A body over the axle. They don't have bolts running through them however. The bolt is secured by a square nut. It is inside a sheetmetal cage that allows it to move a little bit during installation in the factory but not enough to rotate. They are spot welded and the welds break. Then you have to cut a hole in the floor to fix it. If the welds break before you break the bolt you have to saw the bolt through. Even with a hacksaw it doesn't take too long. In regards to polyurethane body mounts whether you think the trade off in ride quality is worth the increase in stiffness is a matter of personal preference. Maybe you should avoid them if you live ina heavily potholed area.
|
Reply |
|
|