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#1
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Custom E-brake cables
I just got a quote on custom steel e-brake cables for 140.00 plus shipping for the rear ones only. They dont have the rubber cushioning on the outside in the critical areas or the correct ends for the outside sheath. Is that too much $$$?
This will complete my rear disc project, so I need to get them from somewhere. Last edited by Mr Twister; 10-04-2013 at 02:48 PM. |
#2
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I am probably going with a locar universal kit. They are around $115-120 from Summit racing.
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73 TA 468 5sp SS 700, 12 bolt moser 373, 4 wheel disk brakes. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7567172&type=3 |
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#3
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Expensive stuff. Custom length were needed for my brake setup. I thought Inline Tube was expensive, but good service. Your estimate seems high. What all are you getting for $140?
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- Tom |
#4
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It is a quote from Inline Tube. I sent them my originals for a template with notes on what needs to be changed. Its only for the rear two cables.
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#5
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The pair of OEM E-brake cables for my pickup from NAPA are nicely under fifty bucks. Includes all the protective padding and insulation, along with the nylon-coated inner cable.
I'd be looking for an OEM cable that matches the needed length and cable ends; and if successful, happily pocket the $70--$90 in savings. |
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#6
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I used Lokar's universal e-brake cable kit on my 72 TA clone. Easy install and much easier to work with than the heavy oem parts.
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
#7
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I changed to four wheel disc and my cables cost me $12.00 for both. Fit perfectly, work perfectly and look 100% factory.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#8
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I wish I could find an oem application that would work. The car is my 1986 Grand Prix with Scarebird disc brackets and Eldorado calipers. This set up works well so far (100 miles), but you need the e-brake cables to cycle the sprags to take up the space between the rotor and pad periodically.
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#9
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Well, then Scarebird will have to chime in here. I used the S10 set up which was a direct bolt in and has the integral drum for the E brake. I never liked ratcheting calipers because they do require the cycling for proper adjustment. Also, if you don't use the car often enough when the brake fluid gets old all those moving parts inside start to corrode and potentially become problematic. Nothing against Scarebird cause his system works but I was able swap my whole system over for less than $300.00 including a new master cylinder, new slotted and drilled rotors, altering the cables and new pads. I did however happen to have a proportioning valve of an '81 TA which I rebuilt and used.
Unfortunately I have never performed the swap that you have and cannot recommend a fix for it so I apologize for that. Maybe the first thing I would do is check out the cables on an Eldo or Seville and see if those might be used and/or altered. I think your biggest issue is finding a housing that will work for you, the guts are cheaply altered. Or, drop back and punt buying the aftermarket cables you need.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#10
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I have a Ford 9" Rear Axle under my 64 GTO Convertible. I used the readily available Explorer Rear Disc Brake Rotor, Caliper, Bracket, and E-Brake hardware offered thru the Ford Motorsports catalog. Not cheap parts but OEM parts available from many sources if you are stuck on the road somewhere.
That being said, Scarebird's parts are similar to what I had in the past on the car and they worked JUST FINE. I just wanted to make the car more OEM in the design. At some point, be able to sell the whole system to another Pontiac A-Body guy IF I every went back to the 10 Bolt style Rear Axle assembly (NOT LIKELY!). That being said, and as related to the original question, even though I could have used the Pontiac NOS rear E-Brake parts I had, I decided to keep them on the shelf and went with custom parts from a company in Mt Clemens, Michigan (that was a OEM supplier for Ford and the Explorer vehicle). BEAUTIFUL PARTS, will last 300K probably. (The car will probably never see another 50K but they sure are first class stuff.) So if you want to go the Ford Housing route (Mine is a Moser part), go that way. If going custom GM, go that way. Point is their are lots of levels of parts, (and will you have to do the stuff over at some point?) (like I did). Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#11
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I'm not familiar with the Eldo brakes, but I made a bastard cable to go from 1998-02 F-body to '67-69 F-body. I found that it's not too hard to work the cable sheath end off of just about any cable so they are easily shortened if you can find a long one. A driveline or cable rigging place should be able to crimp a new barrel end on for you. If not, drill out the old one and braze or tig it onto the cable.
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1967 Firebird Convertible Factory 400/4spd Now 462/5spd Fuel Injected http://1967firebird.atwebpages.com/ |
#12
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I have Ford 9 in. under a 61 tempest wagon and a 63 coupe. The E-Brake Cables and hardware came from Inline Tube. Thought was a good price but has been a few years. The first pair was a custom made.
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#13
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Back in 2006 I had Inline Tube make me a custom set for the Corvette disc brakes added to my 61. I gave them the information on length and what ends I needed. Had it done in stainless and everything worked out good. $208 with shipping. That was for the stainless material. Old carbon steel might have been cheaper but what the heck - I only wanted to do it once. And considering how the car is driven these days it will probably last forever.
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#14
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Quote:
http://store.controlcables.com/servlet/StoreFront About 75 bux plus shipping |
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#15
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Scarebird, Thanks for chiming in here and thanks forn making parts for us to do what we do. I actually gave in and ordered the inline tube parts for 160.00 parts+shipping+tax. I will post more when I get the cables.
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#16
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Sure, wish I would have caught this thread earlier.
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#17
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I got the cables today. These are VERY good, they are exactly what I asked for. The rep on the phone said thay were not exact but the differences are almost not noticeable. I don't have any complaints. Customer service was an A+.
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