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#1
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Oil additive?
What additive are you using? I'm not interested in exotic oils, just off the shelf stuff.
I use comp cam and lucas with flat tappet cam and comp cam additive only with solid roller. |
#2
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Flat tappets,I'd probably use the Torco MPZ or ZEP additives depending on what specific engine oil I were using in that engine.
Also like the Crane super lube additive,that stuff has loads of the "good stuff" in it too. FWIW Bret P. |
#3
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I recently ran across Rislone Zinc Additive at Advance Auto. Can be added to regular oil to raise the zddp levels to a safe level. It retails for around $11.
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If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is |
#4
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Have you been using Valvoline for a while? Have you noticed any foaming issues lately?
I used 5W-30 conventional in the 6.2L in my 2010 GMC Sierra for the past couple of changes and upon my regular 4,000 mile oil change interval, I found the oil rather foamy. It makes me wonder how good the additive packages are since it can be purchased quite reasonably after the Valvoline rebates. |
#5
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#6
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Been using BG MOA with Valvoline, so far so good. The MOA is supposed to have enough zinc for the flat tappet. Not sure how much but the guy that built the engine for me recommended it so going with it for now.
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#7
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After my supply of EOS ran out I switched to ZDDPlus.
About half the cost of EOS. Supposed to have all the stuff you need in it. |
#8
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before my car got parked due to transmission problems I was using Crane Super lube, it is so concentrated that you don't want to use the whole bottle unless your breaking in the cam. Don't take this as gospel but a guy on team chevelle posted that he added an ounce of of the super lube to 5.5 quarts of Castrol 10w40 and he did a used oil analysis and it raise the zinc and phos. level to around 1600 ppm. Oil started out at about 800. take it for what its worth....
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1969 Firebird "400". 408 Pontiac, #62 heads, 274 XE cam, Eddy RPM intake, Quick Fuel Slayer 750, Carter Super Street fuel pump, Mallory Unilite, Turbo 400 with shift kit, Continental "Jim Hand Special" 3200 stall, 12 bolt 4.10 posi. 1 5/8 inch headers, 2.5 exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflos. |
#9
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Quote:
Even breaking in a FT cam it's likely that a half bottle of the stuff would be plenty. The VOA's of that stuff over @ BITOG show all the "good stuff" no.s to be way the he!! up there. FWIW Bret P. |
#10
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Yeah Brett, it seems like the most economical way with the Crane Super Lube. Order an 8 oz bottle from Summit for around $8 plus shipping and its good for 8 oil changes for those who want to use off the shelf low zddp oil.
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1969 Firebird "400". 408 Pontiac, #62 heads, 274 XE cam, Eddy RPM intake, Quick Fuel Slayer 750, Carter Super Street fuel pump, Mallory Unilite, Turbo 400 with shift kit, Continental "Jim Hand Special" 3200 stall, 12 bolt 4.10 posi. 1 5/8 inch headers, 2.5 exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflos. |
#11
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Both Lycoming and continental aircraft companies sell an additive for about 10 bucks, its FAA PMA aproved and we're talking about 25 thousand dollar plus aircraft engines.
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#12
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Since the primary reason for adding zinc is to preserve our engines, I think it would be false economy to only use half a bottle. I would think that levels between 1,400 to 1,600 PPM would be in a good range to shoot for. A half bottle might only raise the zinc up to about 1,200 added to EPA mandated oil. Only way I would add half a bottle is running Valvoline Racing VR1 that I believe is now around 1,200 PPM. Do you want to save $6 using half a bottle, or save the $6,000 engine?
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#13
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Was gonna post a question but this is real close. I have a 7 qt. pan. Sooo 6qt oil plus this. Do I need additive every oil change???? Plus is this the best for my solid roller cam??? Thanks
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#14
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question for you guys with roller cams wanting to use an additive. why? roller cams dont need anything extra from off the shelf oils.
& for the flat tappet guys, unless you have some crazy high lift or spring pressures, you dont need to over do the zddp. 1600ppm is a waste for a broken in street or stock f/t cam. before the EPA reduction the suggested amounts for zddp was about 1300ppm. todays oils have reduced the zddp from what it used to be to around 800ppm, but todays oils are completely different than even 10 years ago. ask any of the large oil companies & they will explain that the 800ppm is sufficient for most f/t cams, not true race cams with .500+ lifts & high spring pressures, but all other "street" cams. the new additives have an improved version of zddp & have other additives that are fine for most f/t cams. case in point: there are millions of vehicles on the road with f/t cams that use current SN grade oils, they are all running perfectly fine. my daily driver is a 1997 jeep cherokee 4.0 f/t cam, it has almost 170,000 miles on it & all are with regular oils, it will run untill 250,000+ & it wont be the cam that ends its life, or the 800ppm oil i use. just some facts for those that "think" they need additives for their regular f/t cams. for break in or true "race" cams, yes you should use an additive or specialty oil & other tricks to ensure the cam breaks in ok. but for all other non race or roller cams, its a waste of money IMO. if you think you need something extra, just use a good 15w40 or one of the specialty oils like bradd penn, or valvoline vr-1. they have more than enough of whats needed for most f/t cam engines. this is the street section after all... |
#15
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Quote:
LG motorsports posted a nice article on the corvette forum about aggressive roller profiles getting flattened attributed to zinc related oil it's starting to happen more and more (typically fast ramp rate cams) they are finding oils like Driven and higher end RP's are providing better protection also watch mixing additives too, you can get additive clash I run the Driven oil in my setup since i have a fairly aggressive hyd roller kindda sad when you see the price of some of these oils (or any oil in general) and think back when i was younger that we practically bought cases of oil at the price of a qt now, not to mention had all the protection needed. |
#16
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Thank you Solid roller 660 lift. Just want to make sure i'm covered
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#17
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don79ta does have a point about extreme lifts or lobe designs etc, those may be better off with a better oil or additive. .660 is pretty big, definantly not what most would call a street cam.
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#18
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Lucas zinc.
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. |
#19
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I use Mobil1 Synthetic 15W-50 without additives. It has a 1300PPM level, readily available everywhere and formulated for flat tappet cams.
Been using that stuff for years. Flat tapper, solids. Never had any problems, bearings always looks good, oil also. And I get better oil pressure. |
The Following User Says Thank You to MescaBug For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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I use Rotella T 15W-40 oil and pour in a bottle of Comp Cams 159 additive.
Is this an okay combo? |
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