[dataway]

I've got wheel studs as seen in the pic below. I'm having problems finding them. So far I've found one source that appears to show a picture of the type of stud I have. 68 GTO, front drum, 2 7/8" center hole type drum. This picture is of an OEM "swagged" stud, the swagging is what held the factory drum to the hub.

The problem is the stud needs to have the section of bare shoulder because that is what fits the holes in the drum nicely. Most studs I've seen have threads almost all the way to the splines, so basically the stud would fit fine in the hub, but be sloppy in the drum.

Is this something bizarre? Is everyone else using a different stud than this? 98% of the studs I see listed for a 68 GTO do NOT look like these.

http://www.npdlink.com/store/product...6620-1750.html

Below is a pic of a stud pressed out of my hub.
Any advice or information appreciated.
JohnnyB

[GTO JOHN]

I may have some studs around here from two 68's with drums we fixed/parted. They look like special front drum only studs..

[dataway]

Seems like since the vast majority of A body GM's in 68 were drums that they wouldn't be that "special" However, the car I'm working does/did have the two piece drum/hub where the drum was "swagged" on to the hub using these studs ...not sure if that was common place or not.

I think I might have to order drums first and see what is commonly available right now. All drums I have seen have no hub, not like back in the day when the drum came with the hub integrated. So, the studs have to fit the holes in the drum properly or there will be slop in the fit allowing the drum to bang against the the threads in the stud. (hard to explain). In other words ...the fit of the studs the drum should secure the drum, not the friction of the lug nuts pressing the drum against the hub.

I need to post a picture of hubs.
JohnnyB

[GTO68FXSTC98]

They switched hub styles mid way through the production year. You must have an early car, like mine. Ames offers both. I love my 68, but sometimes it's a PITA to find parts for.

[dmorg1]

Johnny,

I will have to double check my notes but I believe the Dorman 610-105 is the stud you need.

Dave

[dataway]

Dave .... so I have these hubs/spindles ....which I assume are standard issue 68 A body stuff. At this point I have no drums, so I can buy whatever drums will work, and I can press in any studs I want into the hubs ... I want the most common, easy to find, every day sort of setup ....since I am at bare bones right now I assume I can go in any direction I want.

Is anyone using the old drum/hub combo like back in the day? I remember a time when you got new drums they came with the hub intergrated into the drum ... I take it that is not the case anymore?

That Dorman number looks very close...it's got the shoulder, and the .558 Knurl is very close the to the .569" Knurl I measure on the piece I have in my hand that I pressed out of one of my hubs. Length is also very close.

Yep, most of this GTO was produced 5/68-6/68 ... so it's right in the middle.
JohnnyB

[Kenth]

1968 production started **8-21-67 and finished 8-5-68 (**8-22-67 and finished 7-26-68 at Plant #8 Pontiac).

[dataway]

So that would make my GTO towards the end of the production run. Seems to still have some aspects of an early model 68, and some aspects of a late model 68. Either way, it's a pain in the butt

JohnnyB

[Ken K]

I have the whole front brake set up both sides for a 68 including the spindles.

[dmorg1]

Johnny,

I checked a Raybestos 1272R drum today and it has .538" mounting holes.


Dave

[dataway]

You know that stud is listed as a 69 GTO front disk stud. I'm going to take some pics of the right side hub that I didn't press the studs out of and make sure they are the same. I think a lot of parts listings are wrong
The stud I have in my hand that came out of the driver side is:
.569 Knurl
.542 Shoulder
5/8" from bottom of head to end of shoulder.
And a smidge less than 1.5" from under the head to the end of threads.

I found this Wagner part http://fme-cat.com/overlays/part-det...NTIAC GTO&vin=

Which, so far I can find specs for, but when I shrink down my screen size and compare this stud, they look indentical. However... again this stud is listed for a 69 "One piece hub and rotor" and they list NO studs specifically for front drums. Since according to Kenth my car is quite late in the 68 .... are these 69 parts? I can find any listing anywhere for a 68 stud that looks like mine except the National Parts Depot link to the Firebird stud.

I'll post some detail photos of the hub later. Hate being such a pain, but if I make a mistake now it could snowball into a whole bunch of incorrect parts ....something I'm famous for
JohnnyB

[dataway]

Here a some pics of the hub and a stud that came out of the other hub (both the same of course).

First of all these were the original studs, you can see where the brake drum was swagged onto the studs making the hub/drum assembly. I had to press the drums off the hub past these "swags". So, back in the day I think the hub/drum assembly was replaced as a single unit. Now days you get a bare drum, no hub ....so I can only assume at some time in the future the studs HAD to be replaced because it's unlikely the swagged studs would fit a new drum properly.

1. Were new studs installed?

2. Or were new drums with larger stud holes installed?

3. Did the factory never even address this issue and dealers always used the assembly?

I hear about his mid-68 change in the drums from "1 piece" to "2 piece" ....are the 2 pieces the hub and drum?

I just want to put these brakes together with the most commonly used, easiest to service parts that they used in 68-69.

Does anyone have a picture of a 68 hub/drum that is/was NOT swagged together like this?
Anyone here work in a garage back in the day and remember any details?

Thanks guys,
JohnnyB

[dmorg1]

Johnny,

Be sure to remove the staking dimples from the stud before pressing the studs out of the hub or you will erode some of the hub material and diminish the fit between the stud and hub. (Don't ask how I know).


I'm still searching for my notes but I seem to recall opening up the drum holes to accommodate the Dorman stud I listed.

My intentions were to make a tool to stake the new studs, hub and drum assembly but I never got that far.

Dave

[dataway]

As for removing the studs with the dimples in place ....that bridge has already been crossed for one side of the car The way I removed them took them out of drum and hub at the same time.

I should probably worry more about putting together something that works well rather than how easy it will be to service 20 years and 2,000 miles from now. That's probably all it will get driven.

I just get curious, obviously there had to be a common way to address the millions of 68 A-bodies that used a similar setup.

JohnnyB

[dmorg1]

Johnny,

Not that this helps your situation but there is a listing for the Drum (less the hub) in the Chassis Parts Catalog.

There is also a listing for an oversize 7/16" stud with a note that the Hub and Drum must be drilled out by a 9/16" diameter drill.

It sure would be nice if we had access to the manufacturing drawings.


Were you able to find dimensions for the Wagner Stud?


Dave

[dataway]

Haven't been able to find any dimensions ....they are cheap enough that I could order one and take a look I guess. I think the way I'm going to have to approach this is get the drums I want, with the proper size center hole, whatever is considered the usually replacement type, and go from there.

My problem is ...without this shoulder extending into the brake drum, the brake drum could rotate under hard braking and the ID of the stud holes in the drum would contact threads, instead of a nice fitting shoulder.

Anyone know if they showed two different part numbers for hubs in 68?

JohnnyB

[dmorg1]

I did not see a 68 T8 listing for the Hub alone, only listings for the Drum (less hub) and Drum/Hub Assemblies.

Yes, the shoulder of the stud should go through the drum with minimal clearance.


Dave

[dataway]

Come to think of it, if necessary I could put studs in the lathe and turn down the shoulder to whatever I need..... shame I can turn them up
JohnnyB

[dmorg1]

Johnny,

Here are a few pics of the Dorman 610-105 stud in a 3.03" hub.











Dave

[dataway]

Dave, that looks great. So basically the only difference betweent that setup and mine is the ID of the center hole in the drum.

Regardless of what works or doesn't ...what you have there is exactly what I want to have here, except with the smaller center hole hubs.

Thanks so much for taking the time to take the photos, post them, etc. In the next couple of weeks I'm going to order a couple of 2.77 drums and get a feel for what I need to do.

JohnnyB2