[savatreatabvr]

I made a classic mistake buying my daughter a used car! I saw a 1999 Pontiac Sunfire on a street corner with $2,900 shoe polished on the windshield so I stopped to check it out. I've been buying used cars my whole life and I've been burnt before but this car looked brand new, my only concern was it had 160,000 mils on it but it drove great and the seller was a nice guy so I gave him $2,500 and she drove it home. A week later she calls me crying saying the car died and won't start, come to find out it died in the middle of the 7th most dangerous intersection in the US, thank god for AAA, lol! Anyways the car starts fine but dies a few seconds later and it did this for 15 minutes before it finally ran long enough to get it home. I know buyer beware but what could possibly make the car do that? I thought I'd ask for some advice first before taking it to a mechanic shop so any ideas on what the problem is?

[johnta1]

I would check the fuel pump.

Have a scan tool?

Also saw a cam sensor bad but it would probably not start at all with that.
Probably fuel related.

[sdbob]

I learned never let an (w electronic fuel pump)gas tank get below 1/4 full. My old 86 Buick I ran it down a few times. Then wouldn't start. Changed fuel pump using GM pump it was fine. I checked used fuel pump with 12 volts it worked. I was told it won't develop enough pressure once being hot in low gas tank. My new GMtrucks 'I' never let it go below 1/4 full. My 2cts.

[Bob Dillon]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

I know buyer beware but what could possibly make the car do that? I thought I'd ask for some advice first before taking it to a mechanic shop so any ideas on what the problem is?

Remove and thoroughly clean the battery cables, soaking them in a solution of baking soda and water. Don't just clean the ends, soak them, or in the alternative, replace them. Also, use a small wire brush (the one from my 9MM pistol cleaning kit fits perfectly) to clean the inside of the battery terminals.

Use dielectric grease on all connections. This is a well-known problem on early 90s to late 2000 Pontiacs (or equivalen GM Vehicles).

You probably ought to borrow a scanner and check it out, as well. Check engine light on?

Good luck.

[Bob Dillon]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Also saw a cam sensor bad but it would probably not start at all with that.

The 3800 will start and run with a bad cam position sensor, but roughly. The usual reason you get that code on a 3800 is that the magnet on the CPS has jumped ship. Some guys in my Bonneville board have been successful with using JB Weld or similar stuff to glue it back on.

(I realize we may not be talking about the 3800 here.)

[Alvin]

Agree 100% w EVERYTHING others have posted.

Also check these links out specific to the car in question:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Autom..._Start_P51165/

http://www.bing.com/search?q=1999+po...ce89b60147b1aa

http://www.bing.com/search?q=1999+po...492ea2f8cf7932

Lots of info available with a simple search. Note the suggested subject links that pop up when typing in "1999 Pontiac Sunfire" I'd take a look at those common subjects for current and future anticipated repairs.

Keep us posted...and tell her to keep the tank above 1/2 full IMO.

[geeteeohguy]

A scanner should point you right to the problem. You can look at the data stream and see what value goes haywire when it dies out. Probably a minor issue, since it runs fine when it does run. Not to worry.

[fasteddy]

Plugged up catalytic converter? Maybe?

[Simple Man]

How's the ignition switch?

[John V.]

I owned a '99 Sunfire convert for a few years.

2.4L Twin Cam.

Mine was a 5 spd.

I experienced a stalling problem at one point, would tend to happen as I came off the clutch from a stop. Restarted with no problem, idled pretty well, except at times would start to chug. No codes, had a mechanic check it, he couldn't find any problem.

I brought it home, poked around and spotted the problem.

About a 3" long vac hose bent to about a 90 had cracked. When the engine would move, it would intermittently open the crack and bog or stall the engine.

Near as I could tell, it was the only rubber vac hose on the entire engine. I had a piece of vac hose laying around, installed it to suit, and the stalling disappeared.

If it is the 2.4 TC, check it out. If the 2.2L, can't help you (though could also be a vac hose problem).

Hose is located front of car, somewhat hidden near the Throttle Body as I recall.

[John V.]

Never had a fuel pump issue on my Sunfire but I think it had maybe 140k on it when I sold it.

I am notorious for running my tanks down to empty before EVERY fill up.

Only pump that ever quit on me was in the '97 Safari and that one I had to stop running to empty because the fuel gauge quit, relied on the trip odo and played it conservatively for years that way. So it was treated better than any other. Also had the most miles of any vehicle I've ever owned.

Pump died on the road, was expensive to replace since I couldn't do it myself. Good news, the new pump included a new sender so my gauge worked again for the first time in years.

OE pump (I was original owner) died somewhere between 180k and 195k (at which point I sold the van) which seemed pretty typical for the Delco fuel pumps (I believe the Sunfire has the same general type). So while I don't disagree with the advice which is commonly given to keep more gas in the tank to keep the pump cool, I think the concern is overblown and these pumps just figure to die at a certain age.

If OE, yours is in that range, so certainly suspect.

My Safari was hard starting for awhile (I suspected the pump, but mechanic tested pressure, said it was good, blamed moisture in the dist cap). Then worked fine for the next few weeks. Was on the return leg of a roughly 2000 mile round trip when the pump quit altogether.

Check for that vac hose, but fuel pump could also be the issue. Even if the issue is the vac hose, you might consider a new fuel pump as preventive maintenance, lest your daughter stall at that same intersection again.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by johnta1

I would check the fuel pump.

Have a scan tool?

Also saw a cam sensor bad but it would probably not start at all with that.
Probably fuel related.

Possibly a weak fuel pump or a clogged water sock.

[Lightfoot]

Anyways the car starts fine but dies a few seconds later and it did this for 15 minutes before it finally ran long enough to get it home.

I would not suspect the fuel pump based on this symptom.
Does/did it run on half the cylinders before stalling? ie. require keeping the rpms above 2,000 with your right foot?
I'm having that problem periodically with my '89 Buick. It seems humidity related.
I am beginning to think the ECM is glitching out, or perhaps has a poor ground.
Most recent episode produced 15 trouble codes. Yet the car runs fine after an hour or so 'timeout'.

Cleaning the battery cable connections is good advice. I think you have a ground or connection problem, or a faulty ECM.

[Ben M.]

Ignition module did the exact same thing on a 2004 Sunfire I had the pleasure of working on. No codes at all thrown, would start and run for a few minutes or 30-45 seconds and then die. $125 part at Autozone, car runs fine now.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Sunbird with a 3800? NAW, probably a 4CYL.

IF you gots the 3800; it's doomed by the COMPUTER, Fuel pump may not be reaching PSI due to control signal from EPC.

If you shoot starting fluid into the air inletwhile ceanking,you can verify a Fuel vs spark uncertainty. Engine may noy like that..

Fuel pump cound be worn out and not reach PSI

Vacuum-pod on fuel rail may be faulty 2 differnt ways.

faulty Ignition Coil secondary windings can be ohm-metered to check for continuity; to mitigate stall outs. GO to u-PULL-IT & buy 3 that ohm-out well. Field-proven spares are better than new coils.

and I'm spent.

[py71lemans]

MAS. Mass airflow sensor. Try cleaning it

[Mark O]

Here we go. Internet diagnosis. Ughhh.

If you don't know, save yourself money and take it to a professional.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by Mark O

Here we go. Internet diagnosis. Ughhh.

....l.

THAT's why I got rid of the 3800 V6 vehicle

[Bob Dillon]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

THAT's why I got rid of the 3800 V6 vehicle

I have almost 400,000 on 2 Series II 3800 V6s and have had great service. The '99 had 235K on it when it left here and my current '97 has 140+.

Did the LIM on the '99 just to be safe. Also did a fuel pump because although it was still up to spec, it was making a lot of noise. Other than that, just maintenance.

Supposedly, according to Edmunds, one of the 10 best engines of all time. I have no complaints.

[goatnut]

Originally Posted by Mark O

Here we go. Internet diagnosis. Ughhh.

If you don't know, save yourself money and take it to a professional.

Agree! I see this all to often when a customer doesn't know and tries to fix it themself. We just had a newer F150 come in with a misfire and multiple codes stored in PCM. Owner replaced all 8 spark plugs @$19.00 a piece, all 8 ignition coils @ $100.00 a piece and all 8 fuel injectors @ $100.00 a piece, truck still had a misfire. We run normal diagnostics for codes and find a broken wire to #7 ignition coil. problem found and repaired in less than an hour with no needed parts. Owner spent over $1600.00 in parts and we fixed it for less than $100.00.