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  #21  
Old 04-05-2017, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lethal-428-lemans View Post
I had one act like that once and the starter drive was stuck out and engaged in the flywheel. I pulled the starter and then spun it right over by hand. Put on a new starter and it worked fine.
X2 on dropping the Starter before going any farther. You will not move it if the starter is engaged. The fact that you could remove/loosen the crank bolt says something was helping hold the crank in one position.

Tom V.

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  #22  
Old 04-05-2017, 11:32 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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That also tells you around 200 lbs. of torque will not turn the engine. Stock crank bolt torque = 160 ft. lbs. Breakaway torque probably at least 200. I agree remove starter and try to turn flex plate with a large screwdriver.


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X2 on dropping the Starter before going any farther. You will not move it if the starter is engaged. The fact that you could remove/loosen the crank bolt says something was helping hold the crank in one position.

Tom V.

  #23  
Old 04-05-2017, 12:00 PM
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I love trying to get old engines running...

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  #24  
Old 04-05-2017, 02:47 PM
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I'd let it sit for another week...

One thing to think about...not knowing how much "stuff" you are putting the cylinders, the pistons are sitting at a 45 degree angle from level. You need quite a bit of "stuff" in the cylinders to completely cover the top of the piston, so that the lube is getting to the entire piston ring, not just part of it. The cylinders at the top of stroke will be more difficult to get completely "covered".

Dave, Is it more fun to get an old engine going in North Carolina?

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  #25  
Old 04-05-2017, 05:27 PM
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It is!!!! We shall see how much more fun next Yak I get with a 326!

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  #26  
Old 04-05-2017, 05:32 PM
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Jerry, if your going to use the starter to try and break it free, make damn sure that the starter brace is installed. Trying to break the engine free without the starter brace is a good way to break the cast iron ears off of the block.

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  #27  
Old 04-05-2017, 06:21 PM
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I'm against using the starter, period! Too many major screw ups that could take place.
Large screwdriver against teeth on flywheel is one of the better options to get more turning leverage to spin crank, and safe.

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  #28  
Old 04-05-2017, 06:37 PM
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Even after it's unstuck it could easily kick back when trying to start it because of the fluid in the cylinders, timing being off, a ridge that might grab the piston or rings, flooding carb, etc. and break the block.

Jerry already mentioned boosting the battery to try to get it to turn over, I just want to caution him to make sure the front starter brace is in place. Once the block is damaged there's no easy way to repair it

Much better/safer to put the brace on in case someone along the line deleted it, the factory knew what they were doing when they engineered it.

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  #29  
Old 04-05-2017, 07:22 PM
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Maybe I just have to many resources or energy. I'd pull it out, whatever is stuck is not likely to work well once unstuck....or for long.

  #30  
Old 04-05-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD View Post
Maybe I just have to many resources or energy. I'd pull it out, whatever is stuck is not likely to work well once unstuck....or for long.
SCF, since you haven't been on PY very long, I don't imagine your aware of the situation that Jerry is in as far as physical limitations. I've met and talked to Jerry at Norwalk over the years, he just recently sold his pride and joy 65 GTO because of his physical limitations and having to get someone to help him bring his GTO to the shows.

If you read this thread about him selling his GTO you'll understand what he's challenged with....http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ight=Jerry+GTO

He more than likely isn't going to jump off his scooter and pull the motor without exhausting his options getting it to break loose, and assess if he can get away without rebuilding it. Good luck on getting it broken loose Jerry................

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  #31  
Old 04-05-2017, 08:41 PM
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I was unaware, no malice or disrespect was, or is ever meant in any way to anyone here, truly sorry for my rookie mistake.

  #32  
Old 04-05-2017, 09:05 PM
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You can pull the starter but that's not necessary unless it's stuck in the engaged position. All you need to do is remove the flywheel inspection cover and verify the starter gear is not engaged with the flywheel.

Loosen the belts for the alternator, power steering pump and AC if so equipped. If a breaker bar and socket on dampener bolt doesn't turn it over, it's not going to turn over, period.

If the starter is jammed, you, you should remove it to check with the breaker bar. Don't buy a new starter for a motor that may not be rebuildable.

  #33  
Old 04-05-2017, 09:35 PM
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Default Stuck engine

Take the starter off and pinch the ring gear over using a big flat screwdriver or small bar one tooth at a time. Pinch over 3-4 teeth and stop. Pull the plugs and pour 50/50 mixture of tranny fluid and diesel fuel down the plug holes and the following morning pinch the engine back in the opposite direction the 4 teeth you pinched over the previous day and an extra 4 or 5 teeth. Keeping repeating every day until you have gone a complete 360 revolution. The trick is to not get in a hurry as you will take the edge off the rings if you do. The diesel will dissolve the carbon and any rust. Then get an air hose and blow out the cylinders good and pour some fresh oil in. Take a fully charged battery and drill it over till it kills the battery. Re-install the plugs and it should be good to go. Now for all the doubters we did this on my fathers 52 ford flat head 239 cu in motor that he and I installed in 1978. It came out of a 50 ford customline that was dry seized and had 98,000 miles on it. I currently have the motor hanging on my engine puller as I am regasketing it and putting headers on it for duals. It has around 150,000 on it now and dad claims it only burns a quart of oil every 2-3 thousand miles. Ed

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  #34  
Old 04-05-2017, 09:43 PM
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Breaker bars and even towing it if it were a standard in low gear will not break it free as well as pinching it over does. The trick is to put the flat screwdriver down 2-3 teeth below the bell housing and put constant pressure while prying on the ring gear using the bell housing as your fulcrum. Ed

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  #35  
Old 04-05-2017, 10:22 PM
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UPDATE: Starter is off; it was the original starter with the original brace and had never been off the car before. Engine still stuck. Since it looks like the original belts and of course they will need replacing I simply cut both of them off. Both the alternator and the water pump spin freely, so neither of those were the problem. I go ahead and pull the alternator to take it in along with the starter to the rebuilder.

Looks like when I get my helper back to get under the car he'll have to 'pinch' the teeth of the flywheel over as Ed states. Wish us luck.

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  #36  
Old 04-06-2017, 12:01 PM
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Jerry see if it will turn in the opposite direction of what you have been trying. If something got in a cylinder it could be tight against it now but able to turn back. I have a little scope that hooks to a cell phone that is great for looking in an engine and they only run like 10 bucks. You might want to get one and have a look in the engine. I also don't remember if you have a standard or auto but my 49 had the clutch stuck to the flywheel . When I was trying to turn it over I was basically trying to move the car.

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  #37  
Old 04-06-2017, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lethal-428-lemans View Post
Jerry see if it will turn in the opposite direction of what you have been trying. If something got in a cylinder it could be tight against it now but able to turn back. I have a little scope that hooks to a cell phone that is great for looking in an engine and they only run like 10 bucks. You might want to get one and have a look in the engine. I also don't remember if you have a standard or auto but my 49 had the clutch stuck to the flywheel . When I was trying to turn it over I was basically trying to move the car.
What do you call that scope thingy and where did you get it?

When we try to turn the crank the opposite way we have actually loosened up the bolt. Still no go today. Tried the pry bar on the flexplate with no luck. The cylinders are filled up with Marvel Mystery Oil. I'm going to let it sit 5 more days before I make a decision on what to do next.. Pull the heads? Pull the engine and tranny? Anyone else have any magical ideas?

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  #38  
Old 04-07-2017, 01:49 AM
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Jerry - search for "borescope" on Amazon.com. Look for ones compatible with your type of phone (Android/Apple)

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  #39  
Old 04-07-2017, 08:00 AM
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This is what I have Jerry. It works good.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/10M-6LED-Andro....c100408.m2460

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1964 Tempest work in progress 400 with Tremec 5 speed

1967 LeMans drop top project. I tracked down my great grand father & dad's old car.
  #40  
Old 04-07-2017, 12:37 PM
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If all else fails, pull the motor. I dont think pulling the heads off is going to save you anything. I would think you could have gotten the flywheel to turn one way or the other. If the crank is that tight. maybe a bearing has seized?

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