[1966geeto]

I have a dilemma that I have not been able to come up with a solution maybe someone with more electrical experience can help me out. W hen I bought the car one of the few things that came with it was a Pro Comp wiring kit 20 slot fuse box. To my dismay after spending a couple days wiring the car it would not start I am a pretty decent wrench have done it professionally for years or more. I started on the diagnostic path which took some time as I had power at the HEI dist with the key on so it should fire up to my dismay for some reason they chose to make a product that does not have one slot where power is continuous when cranking the engine. So every slot in the fuse box either looses power in the crank position or the ones that have power stay on with the key off. I have a toggle switch in it at this time and it works but is cheesy . I do not have the fact starter in it or I could pick up power at the s terminal .So I hope there is enough info here for someone to come up with a solution any help would be greatly appreciated .

[Old Goat 67]

Schematic ???

[Tempest]

You say that you have power at the distributor in the ON position, but do you have power in the START position? (check ignition switch)

Hope this helps

[johnta1]

X2 on schematic!

Still using the original switch?
(if 66 GTO they used another wire for start ignition)

[1966geeto]

Pro comp harness and 20 slot fuse box the ign switch only supplies start signal to starter on the old fact harness the dist signal was from the fuse box with the key in start position. So when I go to start position I lose the dist signal until in the run position.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

Pro comp harness and 20 slot fuse box the ign switch only supplies start signal to starter on the old fact harness the dist signal was from the fuse box with the key in start position. So when I go to start position I lose the dist signal until in the run position.

Yepper, we figured that from your original post.

Only solution would be to put a relay in where the start lead from the ign switch would control the winding and apply 12V to the run lead at that time.

[1966geeto]

The start lead purple only has power in start position guess not following what wire would activate relay and shut off with ? tried running a relay but it still has constant power eng wont shut down.

[Old Goat 67]

Purple lead should be bridged to go to winding of relay, other side of winding to ground.

Fixed post of contacts should go to 12 Volts, make post of contacts should go to lead going to coil or HEI lead.

That way, the relay will only provide 12 v output when switch is in the Start position.

[1966geeto]

ok so
86 purple
87hei
30 12volt
85 ground

[Old Goat 67]

Yes, that should be correct.

After thinking about it for a bit, I bet a good diode between the two leads would work just as well.
Cathode wired to points or HEI lead with anode to Start lead (Purple).
Run lead looking for battery, either getting it from Ing switch in Run, or from Ign Switch in start.

1 Amp or higher amperage.

[Old Goat 67]

Gotta go visit a dying friend, be gone for a while.

[johnta1]

Just do it the factory way?

Run a wire from starter 'I' terminal to the coil wire.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by johnta1

X2 on schematic!

Still using the original switch?
(if 66 GTO they used another wire for start ignition)

Yes

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Purple lead should be bridged to go to winding of relay, other side of winding to ground.

Fixed post of contacts should go to 12 Volts, make post of contacts should go to lead going to coil or HEI lead.

That way, the relay will only provide 12 v output when switch is in the Start position.

I need it in the run position I have starter activation just no power at the hei in start position?

[johnta1]

Look at this schematic:



Looks like you could run a wire from the purple wire to the coil wire.
(my example in last post was wrong. they do run a 2nd wire just not from starter)



So, when cranking the purple will provide 12 volts to distributor/coil and when in run the normal ignition wire will take over.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Look at this schematic:



Looks like you could run a wire from the purple wire to the coil wire.
(my example in last post was wrong. they do run a 2nd wire just not from starter)



So, when cranking the purple will provide 12 volts to distributor/coil and when in run the normal ignition wire will take over.

Might just work will try it in the am thx.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Look at this schematic:



Looks like you could run a wire from the purple wire to the coil wire.
(my example in last post was wrong. they do run a 2nd wire just not from starter)



So, when cranking the purple will provide 12 volts to distributor/coil and when in run the normal ignition wire will take over.

And, when not cranking, .... the 12 v on the coil wire will keep the starter engaged! That won't work.

In this situation, what he needs is another component to keep the two circuits NOT energized together at the same time, hence.... either the relay OR the diode.

The relay will provide 12 v to the coil or HEI (ie current flow), when cranking only.
The diode would provide a path for current flow through the coil or HEI to 12 volts. Same result, spark for the plugs. 12 volts on both sides of the diode will not do anything to it. Current will only flow through a diode when it is biased properly. That is negative to positive, from cathode to anode.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Just do it the factory way?

Run a wire from starter 'I' terminal to the coil wire.

I don't have the I terminal anymore with the high torque starter that's what I was originally using.