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  #21  
Old 05-03-2018, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
Actually his issue appears to have nothing to do with cheap service. His issue is simply trying to run a lesser tire on a vehicle that came optioned with more tire on it, and the computer doesn't like it.
It's also pretty universal among all tire shops that they simply do not service tires if they are incorrect for the vehicle application, or out of date (more than 4-5 years old).
Tire Discount here is like this, Big O tire here is like this, Walmart, Sams Club, If they are out of the recommended age requirement, they won't even rotate the darn things, they don't want to even touch a lug nut.

Matter of fact I'd say this is more common among the higher end tire shops. You'll have to find a small garage or mom and pop store to do things that stray from manufacture recommendations these days.

I've got a 66 burb in here right now for a paint job and the tires are 11 years old. He went to Tire Discount to dismount the tires because he was powder coating the wheels. They wouldn't touch them due to age, didn't even want to rotate them.
Of course it's a service issue. As long as the combined load range of your tires is not less than the GVWR of the vehicle, they can sell and install any damn tires you want. The sticker inside the door jamb means nothing.

  #22  
Old 05-03-2018, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
I wouldn't call that brilliant. I call it dangerous. That thing decides to let loose, especially if you're in an accident, and that's like a small bomb going off inside the car.

Friend of my fathers also thought it was brilliant to cap off his tube bumpers and fill them with pressurized air so he could fix a flat tire on his off road excursions. That is until some old lady rearended him at a stop light and that bumper went off like a bomb and sent shrapnel everywhere. Not very smart.
Schedule 80 PVC is rated to I think 300psi, so the chances of one blowing up ag 80psi are very slim indeed. But fine, if you're that paranoid about it, use a big U or hose clamp and mount your PVC tube to the frame of the truck or something. Zero risk whatsoever. 80psi isn't going to make a piece of PVC blow up "like a bomb".

Of course, if you're that paranoid, I would probably recommend not driving a motor vehicle in the first place, considering it has a tank full of highly flammable gasoline, an A/C system that produces pressures of 300psi, hot scalding coolant, etc etc.. not to mention the risk of accidents. There's too many other risks in life to be that paranoid.

I don't like the idea of putting the sensors in the spare though, at least not one you ever plan to put on the road. If you carry two spares maybe, but then you still only effectively have one. But if you're the type to call AAA when you have a flat and have it towed to a shop to fix it, maybe throwing them in the spare isn't a bad idea for you.

  #23  
Old 05-03-2018, 05:58 PM
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Simply fascinating

  #24  
Old 05-03-2018, 06:09 PM
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Been there and done that with my GM 3/4 tons and LT tires and higher PSI VS. the 1/2 ton P tires.
I just PAID the extra and put up with the LT tires on my towing and snoplow rigs for SAFETY
and the PIA GM TPS sensor system.

Almost NO dealer will defeat the TPMS for LIABILITY anyhoo!
Gov't mandated in all new vehicles by the way folks!

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  #25  
Old 05-03-2018, 07:30 PM
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Thank Firestone and ford for every outlet that sells tires, and every insurance company that insures the tire stores, for all the paranoia.

When the Firestone explorer lawsuits came about is when the tire stores and their insurance companies decided that they were the only experts on tire inflation, tire type that you can put on your own car, no upsizing more than 2 sizes. Obviously no downsizing, no lower load range, and the tires with the most tread have to be on the rear of the car. Red Foreman had the perfect description for those experts, DUMBASSES!!!!

That goes completely against the commercial vehicle recommendation's (USDOT) that say the steer tires are the most important tires on the vehicle, and the minimum tread depth is 4/32 while all the other tires have a minimum of 2/32.

Go to any tire store and buy only 2 tires, then you're in for a fight that they have to go on the back, instead of the front. They even have posters on the walls showing you why you need the best tires on the rear, total BS IMO. I guess if you don't have enough sense to steer into a slide the tires with more tread are going to keep the rear of the car from becoming loose. It doesn't work that way in real life, the steer tires are the tires controlling the direction of the vehicle, not the rear tires.

Fighting with places like Discount Tire etc. about where my best tires are going on the car, is why I purchased my own tire machine from Harbor Freight.

Funny thing is, here in Ohio used tire outlets are all over the place, and they could care less how old the tire is they're mounting on your car, or which axle you're putting it on. In 2012 I bought a used LT Michelin tire that was manufactured in 1998. The rubber on the sidewall was all weather checked, not just a little bit it was really cracked badly. They had no problem mounting it on the steer axle and taking my money. I just read where Ohio wants to start regulating the used tire industry very soon. Funny how two sales outlets for tires can be so different in their attitudes about safety, or perceived safety for the customer.

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  #26  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud View Post
Simply fascinating
Yes, it is.

  #27  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:26 PM
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Amazing! Next time I buy a "truck" I will have to remember to get "car" tires on it.

Hey, save some of that popcorn for me.

  #28  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:28 PM
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You can run your tires over 32 psi. That's only the recommended tire pressure. I don't have the TPMS setup on my Jeep GC as it's a 2000. I do however run my tires at 38 to 40 pounds. Less rolling resistance and believe it or not it does help some with gas mileage.

I had a set of Cooper LT tires on it back in the 90s, and the dealer said run them at 45 pounds if I wanted to. 45 pounds was right on the side wall.

I see tires on the newer cars are filled with nitrogen. And if the pressure drops you have to use nitrogen to top them off. It's expensive too. It's nothing I'd want to use, no matter what they say.

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  #29  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:32 PM
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I think I am going to look into a set of redlines for my truck.

  #30  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:52 PM
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I think redlines would look sweet on my truck too.
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  #31  
Old 05-04-2018, 12:43 AM
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So much misinformation in this thread.. I love the ignorant lectures from people chastising him for not using LT tires when the truck was available from the factory without them. But hey, you're not gonna learn when you don't read or listen, eh?

Should I be similarly chastised for installing 235/75/15s on my Bonneville when the original sticker calls for L78-15s? That tire size doesn't even exist any more, so I should probably just put it up on blocks and never put tires on it again because they aren't what came on it originally?

Sirrotica's post was good stuff, right on the money. I'll add the fact that I have not brought a whole vehicle to a tire shop for many years. When I need tires, regardless of vehicle, I bring in loose wheels, always. I buy what I want, they sell me what I want, that's the end of it. Never had an issue doing this. Might not be an option for some folks, but on a forum full of gearheads who often own multiple vehicles, there's really not much excuse, is there? The argument that you should be able to trust shops to treat you right and sell you what you want is a nice dream, but it sure isn't realistic in today's world. Thus, my loose wheels go to a competent tire shop, and I take care of the rest.

I've never owned a vehicle with tire pressure monitors, but if I did you can bet your whitewalls that I'd be ditching them and ignoring the light at the first sign of trouble. A couple decades and a few hundred thousand miles of driving I think leave me qualified to check and maintain my own tire pressures, thank you very much. The government can mandate that new cars come with them and they can mandate that shops/dealers cannot defeat the system, but they can't legislate what you do with your own car.

  #32  
Old 05-04-2018, 01:35 AM
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What’s the story with the “new tires on the back?” I have noticed that when I insist “this is a front wheel drive car, and I just rotated them - put em in the front,” they’ll listen.

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  #33  
Old 05-04-2018, 01:46 AM
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Yep, this usually happens when threads get long. People don't read the original posts.

About 80% of the people buying 1/2 ton PUs don't opt for the extra cost, optional LT tires. The "standard" tires are of course rated for more weight than my truck is rated to carry. Since I no longer tow with the truck I have zero reason to put tires on it rated for thousands of pounds more than the GVW of the truck. In fact, technically, the "standard" tires that come on a 1/2 ton are rated to do anything the truck is rated to do. So it's basically a waste of money on a 1/2 ton. The vast majority of LT tires are going on 3/4 trucks. In my specific case, the actual weight rating was the same, however the LT tire is rated to carry the maximum load, for longer periods of time, and at higher speeds. I no longer tow my 6,000 lb goose neck at 80 mph to the races, so I no longer need the LT tires.

But some people are kind of like the guys at Walmart, they have a hard time understanding tire ratings. I'm sure the tire salesmen love to sell LT tires to people that don't need them.

And my original comment still stands, don't order a truck with uprated tires if you don't need them, it just makes life more complicated.


Last edited by dataway; 05-04-2018 at 02:05 AM.
  #34  
Old 05-04-2018, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 68ragtop View Post
I have a silverado 2500HD. same deal. When I got it, it had to have over 68psi (called for 70) or the light & dash warning came on. I have a Snap on solus pro that I was able to go into the TPS menu & change the pressure requirements. Now I run it at 50 psi, but I could set it even lower if I wanted to. I don't believe the tire shops or dealer will do this for you, but its can be re-programmed. I can post some screen shots if it helps in anyway. I ended up bring it in for recall service about 2 years ago, & the dealer didn't say boo about it

Only downside its now when I pull my bigger trailers I put the rear tire pressure back up to 70 PSI & the light comes on for too much pressure. But that is very seldom.

68RT
Yep, I've heard it's hit and miss with dealerships. Some will do it, other won't. Of course they would have zero knowledge of what tire the truck was ordered with if not for the door sticker.
The guy that mounts my tires now at the local garage, when I told him my Walmart experience ... he said " I don't give a bleep, I'll mount them no problem" He seemed perfectly aware of the difference between passenger car tires, SUV/Truck tires, and LT tires.

  #35  
Old 05-04-2018, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris65LeMans View Post
What’s the story with the “new tires on the back?” I have noticed that when I insist “this is a front wheel drive car, and I just rotated them - put em in the front,” they’ll listen.
That whole new tires on the back crap has been pushed by tire shops for years, for reasons I will never understand. Front, rear, whatever wheel drive, the better tires go on the damn front, always. If any of your tires are slick enough where you have a realistic chance of unexpectedly sliding on them, they need to be replaced, not on a particular axle. Or to put it another way, if a tire is worn badly enough that it presents a real risk of suddenly losing traction and thus control with normal driving, it doesn't matter which axle it is on, it's not safe and should be replaced!

Personally, I think the driver's test should include a few minutes of slide recovery practice on a wet skidpad. Make sure people can actually handle some adverse conditions and emergencies, not just the lazy poking around town entailed with most driving tests.

  #36  
Old 05-04-2018, 02:13 AM
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And now you can make fun of my home-made trailer too. I even built the entire chassis.

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  #37  
Old 05-04-2018, 05:47 AM
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Toy hauler with sleeping quarters?

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  #38  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
Thank Firestone and ford for every outlet that sells tires, and every insurance company that insures the tire stores, for all the paranoia.

When the Firestone explorer lawsuits came about is when the tire stores and their insurance companies decided that they were the only experts on tire inflation, tire type that you can put on your own car, no upsizing more than 2 sizes. Obviously no downsizing, no lower load range, and the tires with the most tread have to be on the rear of the car. Red Foreman had the perfect description for those experts, DUMBASSES!!!!

That goes completely against the commercial vehicle recommendation's (USDOT) that say the steer tires are the most important tires on the vehicle, and the minimum tread depth is 4/32 while all the other tires have a minimum of 2/32.

Go to any tire store and buy only 2 tires, then you're in for a fight that they have to go on the back, instead of the front. They even have posters on the walls showing you why you need the best tires on the rear, total BS IMO. I guess if you don't have enough sense to steer into a slide the tires with more tread are going to keep the rear of the car from becoming loose. It doesn't work that way in real life, the steer tires are the tires controlling the direction of the vehicle, not the rear tires.

Fighting with places like Discount Tire etc. about where my best tires are going on the car, is why I purchased my own tire machine from Harbor Freight.

Funny thing is, here in Ohio used tire outlets are all over the place, and they could care less how old the tire is they're mounting on your car, or which axle you're putting it on. In 2012 I bought a used LT Michelin tire that was manufactured in 1998. The rubber on the sidewall was all weather checked, not just a little bit it was really cracked badly. They had no problem mounting it on the steer axle and taking my money. I just read where Ohio wants to start regulating the used tire industry very soon. Funny how two sales outlets for tires can be so different in their attitudes about safety, or perceived safety for the customer.
Yeah, I remember the Explorer fiasco, completely stupid!!!

Ford's recommended air pressure of, was it 26 psi??? I believe? Crap that was SO stupid. Anyone that had ANY automotive maintenance knowledge knows that 26 PSI, may be OK for some small crap box car, but but a heavy SUV type of a vehicle!!!!
The main problem with tire pressures is maintaining the pressures. Put 26 psi in a tire, with the typical soccer Mom that does NO maintenance on the vehicle, but might go to Goob Lube for oil change, they MIGHT check the oil, not likely though. So the air pressure get neglected and your ford exploder is running on possibly less that 20 PSI, no wonder lives were lost. A friend in the tire business said the tires also had something goofy done to dome of them during inspection that was improper, making them likely to blow........

I again state, that I do NOT run the recommended pressures in about 15 GM vehicles, have NO issues with tire pressure monitor system, unless a sensor is bad. have had to recalibrate system a few times, as I explained on previous post, it cured the dash light signal!!!

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  #39  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:04 AM
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And now you can make fun of my home-made trailer too. I even built the entire chassis.

Hmmm..... 5th wheel on a 1/2 ton truck with the nose high? Well now if that does not scream unsafe. One day the NYS DOT Trooper will get you.

  #40  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:35 AM
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The main problem Firestone had was the steel used to make the belts was left outside when it was stored causing rust to start which did two things. It made pock marks in the steel where structural failure could start from and it also left a rust film that prohibited the rubber from forming a good bond to the steel.

Then ford in their infinite wisdom speced the inflation pressure at 26 LBS. which is of course subject to change even with ambient air temperature fluctuation. It wouldn't be a far reach on a cold day that even if the tire was inflated properly to begin with, it could be 20-22 LBS. Heat builds quickly at highway speeds and the failure cycle begins. Even if the tire survives heating and cooling cycles it becomes weakened every time the cycle repeats. The perfect makings of a storm.

Interesting fact that ford wanted an SUV to ride more like a passenger car than an SUV. Instead of re-designing the suspension they speced the tires on the low side. How'd that work out for you guys?

On their upscale Expedition SUVs, ford offered a factory air ride option for better ride quality, too bad they didn't design/offer a air ride system for the Explorer too. Trying to use the tires as a suspension component just didn't work out well in the end.......................

Firestone did try to explain to ford that 26 LBS was too low of a pressure and that premature tire failures would most likely occur, ford pretty much told them "We got this". The rest is history and of course the Gov't in their pattern of overreach stepped in to protect us from ourselves, and from the bad, bad, corporations.

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