[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Come on Dragncar, Really!!!!!!!

So you are a fabricator. That might mean you could make a better one, but it still does not mean you know what it is or how to use.

Oh how well you deflect and spin.

Stan

Stanley,Stanely, Staney......... some questions you lower yourself just answering them.
Everyone who has built a proper engine and deg-reed a cam has used one of some sort. Childish.
Now are you going to start throwing computer code or some numbers I have no idea what they are ?
Am I supposed to show you a pic of a rod bolt stretch gauge and ask you what it does ? Not going to. Have one. Tapered ring installers for different bore sizes.
I have done this stuff before.
Move on, this thread is about radials vs bias slicks. Anything else you can add on that ? Any helpful experience ?

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Stanley,Stanely, Staney......... some questions you lower yourself just answering them.
Everyone who has built a proper engine and deg-reed a cam has used one of some sort. Childish.
Now are you going to start throwing computer code or some numbers I have no idea what they are ?
Am I supposed to show you a pic of a rod bolt stretch gauge and ask you what it does ? Not going to. Have one. Tapered ring installers for different bore sizes.
I have done this stuff before.
Move on, this thread is about radials vs bias slicks. Anything else you can add on that ? Any helpful experience ?

Actually I have never used that on any of my own engines to degree the cam, as I never have the heads on. I use a "U" type bridge with a dial indicator.

As far as this thread going off topic you did that.

Stan

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by slowbird

In another post you stated it weighed 3400lbs but didn't have a hood. Either way here is what whallace site says, two different ones at 3500lbs.

Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 425.10 rear wheel HP and 472.33 flywheel HP.

Your Horsepower*computed from your vehicle weight of 3500 pounds and MPH of 119 is*454.47

slowbird, you asked a question. And without having all the info you thought you would try and embarrass me or something.
Car was only weighed once. Right around 3400lbs, no hood, before the rollbar and 40 spline axles and full back brace installed. Its over that now and with me in it, well over 3600lbs. Has to be.
No hood just kills the aero at high speeds. How much is only a guess. I have had converters that 60 footed a little better and one that got me to 120 but the 60 foot and ET were slightly worse. Tells me it is having trouble on the big end. No hood, no hood scoop is all bad for MPH.
The engine had a top end done by Dan Whittmore. He did the heads, intake, distributor and one of his custom Crower solid FTs. It was one of his proven 550 HP pump gas combos. You know who he was right, Jim Butlers original machinist. Jim thought extremely high of him and would have loved to keep him but Dan wanted to do his own thing.
So when I would call Butlers for parts and talk to Jim about things and my friendship with Dan he gave me special attention, talked for awhile. Jim Butler told me the power and ET was really good for a "TRW 455". You don't get much more out of them.
Those heavy pistons, very heavy pins and THICK rings are not good for power.
I know this because my pal at the track has done a 4" stroke build, modern pistons and rings, home ported 62s, smaller roller and is running 10.50s in a second gen. 10 bolt helps and all. But it is a fresh build, nice engine really.
My engine is like one of Butlers "600HP pump gas 455s" but has iron HOs, less CR, TRWs and more cam. Cam was just picked out used on E bay. Roller lifters are Ace's dads old used comps.
It was done in 1990 but did not see a strip until about 2000. Only has had 2 new sets of valve springs in its TWENTY EIGHT year life. When the engine was newer I had 3.50 gears in it.
You can throw out the 1/4 mile MPH for any HP estimation. No hood throws a monkey wrench in all of it. If you go by weight and 60 foot you get 589HP. Go by weight, 1/8 mile ET and MPH you get 565 HP. 1/8th mile gives less time for the no hood aero problem to take effect.
400HP engines have a hard time pulling the wheels 4"-6" on a 3650lb car with me in it.
They don't break Mark Williams 31 spline billet axles like a twig . Not to mention 9" hard gears and every "posi unit" known to man either.
I cheaped out when I bought the pistons in "the 80s" for it. Wish I had bought the JEs Dan wanted.
Its the reason I sold my 1/8th" ring Ross pistons for the 535 build. Not cheaping out this time on pistons. Scott tells me the right piston and ring combo can be worth 40HP with a Vpump. Sounds good to me. Told him lets go after a number.
Its "your" number. Wish me luck !!

[GTOGEORGE]

I've got street gears in my GTO only broke them once! If you're breaking gears you have a problem........but it isn HP! LOL!


GTO George

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

I've got street gears in my GTO only broke them once! If you're breaking gears you have a problem........but it isn HP! LOL!


GTO George

No kidding, id be upset with the rearend builder.

[slowbird]

Its a nice 460-480hp engine dragncar. It has proven itself reliable for sure.
Im just guessing here but i bet the fact that your track has an elevation of 3ft also helps with the et/mph.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

I've got street gears in my GTO only broke them once! If you're breaking gears you have a problem........but it isn HP! LOL!


GTO George

Did not "break" the gears George. Got past the hard facing. But the Mark Williams (the best) that broke like a twig. Sure, it was after a lot of years. Still broke it.

[midway64]

looking to buy new tires looking for suggestions running 14-32 tire foot braking it radial or byis may use trans break mostly foot

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by midway64

looking to buy new tires looking for suggestions running 14-32 tire foot braking it radial or byis may use trans break mostly foot

Mickey makes a radial in that size but no experience with it. I think its worth trying imo.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Its a nice 460-480hp engine dragncar. It has proven itself reliable for sure.
Im just guessing here but i bet the fact that your track has an elevation of 3ft also helps with the et/mph.

Keep wanting to use at the tire numbers, whatever makes you feel good.
480 flywheel puts me at 11.45 . HP with just 60 foot, 1/8th mile and all that puts me between 557 and 589 flywheel. Its loosing something at the top end,MPH. No hood and very old valve springs on a SR will do that.
People when they dyno engines, use flywheel HP. When I talk HP I never talk at the wheels.
I am going to pull the Tomahawk and put the Warrior back on next race to see if I can pick up a MPH. Just mess around with it in its final season.
Tell me this though, your short block. You sold your top end. Is your short block and crank still in good shape ? I ask because you were all over KOs short block but did not get it, then sold your top end.
Are you done or planing on a comeback ?

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Did not "break" the gears George. Got past the hard facing. But the Mark Williams (the best) that broke like a twig. Sure, it was after a lot of years. Still broke it.

I had like 20 years on my street gears ET between 9.90 and 8.30’s at over 3,100 lbs.


GTO George

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Keep wanting to use at the tire numbers, whatever makes you feel good.
480 flywheel puts me at 11.45 . HP with just 60 foot, 1/8th mile and all that puts me between 557 and 589 flywheel. Its loosing something at the top end,MPH. No hood and very old valve springs on a SR will do that.
People when they dyno engines, use flywheel HP. When I talk HP I never talk at the wheels.
I am going to pull the Tomahawk and put the Warrior back on next race to see if I can pick up a MPH. Just mess around with it in its final season.
Tell me this though, your short block. You sold your top end. Is your short block and crank still in good shape ? I ask because you were all over KOs short block but did not get it, then sold your top end.
Are you done or planing on a comeback ?

Im talking engine hp. Wow calculates hp based on 60ft?? And if you valve springs are costing you hp then you don't have that hp how can you add it back in??
My short block is in great shape! You can buy it. Im done

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Im talking engine hp. Wow calculates hp based on 60ft?? And if you valve springs are costing you hp then you don't have that hp how can you add it back in??
My short block is in great shape! You can buy it. Im done

Just running a few numbers on Wallace racing. They made all the different calculators, not me. Not adding any HP for springs. Just know they are costing me a very small amount, but something. The engine when it was fresh had a car that was very different. 3.50 gears ect. Lots of time passed between upgrades. Its been in this "half finished" shape for years due to life stuff. But I kept on racing anyway.
The new engine, I will dyno it with the Dale Cubic and a bunch of others. 850, HP1000, 1050 and see what it will do for my needs at different times. If I have to buy another cam and pushrods I will do that too. Should,t though.
I know its unconventional but who wants to be like everyone else, not me.
I am not going to get the cage, gears and converter optimized for showing every bit of power for other people. Its expensive. Maybe someday I will just to do it for me.
But right here, right now 10.00 allows me to run two classes at the same time. Get plenty of seat time, more chances to win. I can make it a 9.30 whatever car but that just lets me make 3 time runs and if I loose the first round, I am done for the day. I would rather make 4 time runs and two chances to get eliminated. Done it for years.
10.00 will give me the advantage most of the time in Pro and the engine will never break a sweat.
Hooter runs his 825HP pump gas car to a easy low 10 but if I want to run a engine with a little more power doing the same thing folks talk $h!t.
Let them
Its my car and if I wanted to be like everyone else, I would. This just gives me LOTS of options and I can tinker and try new things.

[Stan Weiss]

DA = 3000'- 516 HP (SAE J607) - 3600#

DA = 0' - 470 HP (SAE J607) - 3600#

60 Foot ET = 1.4595
330 Foot ET = 4.3391
1/8 Mile ET = 6.8537
1/8 Mile MPH = 97.8988
1000 Foot ET = 9.0327
1/4 Mile ET = 10.9022
1/4 Mile MPH = 120.8171

Remember when talking about aerodynamic drag, that your car does not go that fast for even a large change in CD to have much effect.

Stan

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

DA = 3000'- 516 HP (SAE J607) - 3600#

DA = 0' - 470 HP (SAE J607) - 3600#

60 Foot ET = 1.4595
330 Foot ET = 4.3391
1/8 Mile ET = 6.8537
1/8 Mile MPH = 97.8988
1000 Foot ET = 9.0327
1/4 Mile ET = 10.9022
1/4 Mile MPH = 120.8171

Remember when talking about aerodynamic drag, that your car does not go that fast for even a large change in CD to have much effect.

Stan

You have fun while it lasts Stanley. All you seem to be good for is banging on your keyboard of little or no use to no one.
Must suck being you with your miserable life.
I on the other hand have got some custom pistons to go along with a custom ring pack ordered up. You know, race car stuff.
How about you......................

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

You have fun while it lasts Stanley. All you seem to be good for is banging on your keyboard of little or no use to no one.
Must suck being you with your miserable life.
I on the other hand have got some custom pistons to go along with a custom ring pack ordered up. You know, race car stuff.
How about you......................

Dragncar,
I will just let those that read this thread decide which one of us has a clue as to how much HP it takes to run what et, mph with a given 60 foot.

Clearly this is unnerving for you as you keep wanting to make this personnel.

Stan