[Will]

What are your thoughts on dry graphite to lube those pins?

[Region Warrior]

Originally Posted by Sun Tuned

Hood springs? That shouldn't be an issue. Unless you need a dump truck load I wouldn't waste the time to sell a couple. Just send me a decent address and I can give you some. The padded mailer n postage would be more money than the springs anyhow. You talking about stock stiff springs?

Hood springs lol...Yes stock stiff springs.
Have few assortments here. One set looks like mini hood springs!
You or someone posted a shaft/wieght chart some time back showing "curve combos". Thanks BTY!
Don't remember if springs where included but no real way here to check size vs strength out of running engine.

Thanks again.

[dataway]

I've been playing with the idea of building a miniature spring tension tester for advance springs. Gets more complicated than one might think, since a lot of the aftermarket springs seem to start out at different lengths.

[Sun Tuned]

Will, no idea. Never considered trying it.

I did one and Rocky Rotella did the other. Would have to see a link to one you're talking about to say for sure. Doesn't really matter, both were good.

Dataway, that's easily done but your gonna need to know two things.
1. The parked measurement between pins in at rest position.
2. The extended distance between same pins at full advance.

The catch in that is, point distributors have a mechanical stop. HEI has a leverage stop but also a very extended mechanical stop far in excess of their intended design.

Springs easily tested but to do it right you need those first two numbers.
I can tell you I have springs made and the guy is an actual spring engineer. He will tell you the original springs were from a design standpoint slightly too small for the actual app. Even though they work fine.
Just one of those engineering things.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Will

What are your thoughts on dry graphite to lube those pins?

Don't much believe you'ld want any graphite dust, under a distributor cap, in any concentration. Not even a hint.

Graphite powder was the conductor in graphite plug wires. The stuff is also used to make dry cell batteries.

Clay

[Sun Tuned]

I suppose you could take a pencil and draw a cool line inside the cap and watch a bunch of techs pull their hair out trying to figure out why it runs so bad.
Hehehe.
Hmmmm....
Naw.

[68 Firebird]

that's just down right cruel.

[Sun Tuned]

As Clay mentioned, you don't want any of that stuff under there. At all.

I'm no expert but the only thing I've found that works good is just a drop or two of oil on those pins and a very small smudge of light grease or again just oil. Couple times a year depending on mileage. Don't take long and it goes a hell of a long way to heading off issues. Like I said earlier, up north in dead of winter grease may not be best choice. In reg temp months it would be fine. Down south where it's hot as all hell fire and damnation grease likely would last a touch longer because of the heat.

On my own stuff, some 70W Kendall bout 4 times a year is good. That equates on one of my trucks to around 75,000 miles in a year. Don't glob any of it on whatever it is, as if you do it will sling out from under rotor and cause a mess and other issues... such as carbon tracking in the cap.

[Sun Tuned]

Meant to say smidge of grease under the weights on the weight pads.