[riggsjr]

Driving the car yesterday in the extreme heat and notice a few drips of coolant when I pulled into the garage under the front glove box. I am assuming that the heater core finally went.
Wondering how hard to swap it out and if I should repair the old one or replace with an aftermarket? Thank you

[NYGTO]

Maybe this recent thread can help even though it's for 66-67.

[tempest1964]

NYGTO, link didn't post.....

[AG]

There is one heater box stud under the fender that is difficult to access unless taking the fender off.

[Chris65LeMans]

There are threads on here talking about it. You'll be better off putting a new core in.

I had heard that it was a bear of a job. While I had my car at a local shop for some hydroboost tuning issues, the heater core went while they were test-driving. I had them do it since the car was already there, and they only charged for one hour of labor.

[NYGTO]

Originally Posted by tempest1964

NYGTO, link didn't post.....

My bad, here we go.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...39#post6020739

[riggsjr]

NY GTO...Thanks for the link. So I hear the one bolt behind the inner fender well is a bear.

I just flushed out the system last week and added new anti freeze. Wondering if I disturbed a clog in there that was preventing leakage. I will also check my hoses by the firewall to see if anything is loose there dripping in. It was so hot driving back the other day 94 degrees.

[Hokie1984]

Make sure you leak check your replacement before installing. Nothing more fun than doing it twice like I did on my Firebird a few years back.

[JAKE 64]

For 1964

There should be some info in this '64 & '65 forum covering this. You should be able to find a 5/8" diameter indent (or out-dent when looking from the tire side) in the right side inner wheel well. This indent is opposite the pesky nut that needs to be removed. The indent was positioned to provide the dealers guidance when they needed to service the system. The new dealer created hole was then provided with a rubber plug. While not very noticeable, if you are looking to go concourse, you should refrain from creating a hole in your wheel well that was not present when the car was leaving the factory. I believe the indent was present for both the '64 and '65 models.

[riggsjr]

Originally Posted by JAKE 64

For 1964

There should be some info in this '64 & '65 forum covering this. You should be able to find a 5/8" diameter indent (or out-dent when looking from the tire side) in the right side inner wheel well. This indent is opposite the pesky nut that needs to be removed. The indent was positioned to provide the dealers guidance when they needed to service the system. The new dealer created hole was then provided with a rubber plug. While not very noticeable, if you are looking to go concourse, you should refrain from creating a hole in your wheel well that was not present when the car was leaving the factory. I believe the indent was present for both the '64 and '65 models.

I took a quick look last night when I got home and saw no out dent. Can someone post a picture of one?

[riggsjr]

Originally Posted by JAKE 64

For 1964

There should be some info in this '64 & '65 forum covering this. You should be able to find a 5/8" diameter indent (or out-dent when looking from the tire side) in the right side inner wheel well. This indent is opposite the pesky nut that needs to be removed. The indent was positioned to provide the dealers guidance when they needed to service the system. The new dealer created hole was then provided with a rubber plug. While not very noticeable, if you are looking to go concourse, you should refrain from creating a hole in your wheel well that was not present when the car was leaving the factory. I believe the indent was present for both the '64 and '65 models.

So I did check out a few posts...
I am confused as some members say that I need to drill out the inner fender and some say there was no need for that. Again my 65 is a non A/C car which I assume makes a difference? I don't understand why I am getting to different scenarios?

[Dick Boneske]

You are getting different answers because the one stud under the fender is hard to access. When my '64 GTO was new, I changed the heater core several times in my apartment parking lot ('64's especially had a problem because the coolant pressure from the pump was unrestricted and blew the heater core if you ran high rpm's). It would not be a bad idea to install a restrictor in your '65 if you intend to run the car through the gears at any time. FWIW, most of the Chinese heater cores are junk. I'd recommend having yours repaired if you have a radiator shop nearby.

You CAN access that one stud, but only with small arms and patience. Some claim you need to remove the fender, inner fender, cut an access hole, etc. This is not necessary. Find someone with small arms and mechanical skills and you're all set!

[64-3Deuces]

Originally Posted by riggsjr

So I did check out a few posts...
I am confused as some members say that I need to drill out the inner fender and some say there was no need for that. Again my 65 is a non A/C car which I assume makes a difference? I don't understand why I am getting to different scenarios?

Here are some pics that may help you decide on your course of action.

But first, as for the small arms thing I guess that’s worth a try as others said they have done it. That said, I’m far from a big guy and initially tried that long ago with no success. Too much stuff in the way, barely any room to move the wrench, and bending over the fender was not fun.

There are six fasteners that have to be removed. Four are easily accessible in the engine bay, two on the top and two on the bottom. The first pic shows the lower stud that is buried behind the inner fender. The top hole with the orange circle is for a hex-head sheet metal screw that is installed from the INSIDE. Easy to miss as it is located toward the top of the dash. The next pic shows how access is limited when the blower case is installed.

Next is the right inner fender. I cut that hole for access (obviously not correct) but is where the drill mark is located. It’s slight protuberance and not that noticeable. You may have to clean the dirt off to find it. The service manual says to drill a 5/8” hole then plug the hole with a plastic cap similar to the one shown. These are available at hardware stores and supply houses in various sizes and colors. AC or non-AC is the same.

As you can see from the posts there are a number of ways people go about this. Good luck!

[riggsjr]

Originally Posted by 64-3Deuces

Here are some pics that may help you decide on your course of action.

But first, as for the small arms thing I guess that’s worth a try as others said they have done it. That said, I’m far from a big guy and initially tried that long ago with no success. Too much stuff in the way, barely any room to move the wrench, and bending over the fender was not fun.

There are six fasteners that have to be removed. Four are easily accessible in the engine bay, two on the top and two on the bottom. The first pic shows the lower stud that is buried behind the inner fender. The top hole with the orange circle is for a hex-head sheet metal screw that is installed from the INSIDE. Easy to miss as it is located toward the top of the dash. The next pic shows how access is limited when the blower case is installed.

Next is the right inner fender. I cut that hole for access (obviously not correct) but is where the drill mark is located. It’s slight protuberance and not that noticeable. You may have to clean the dirt off to find it. The service manual says to drill a 5/8” hole then plug the hole with a plastic cap similar to the one shown. These are available at hardware stores and supply houses in various sizes and colors. AC or non-AC is the same.

As you can see from the posts there are a number of ways people go about this. Good luck!

First let me say it is nice to get back on and get rid of those Demons!!!

I think I am in luck. The bastard stud is not there as I guess when they did the restore they never put it back. The top hole I think was never installed also (hex-head sheet metal screw). I did attach a picture where I think the screw should of been. There is a hole with nothing in it.Picture should rotate clockwise 90 degrees.So it looks like there are only 4 bolts holding everything together.

[64-3Deuces]

Originally Posted by riggsjr

I think I am in luck. The bastard stud is not there as I guess when they did the restore they never put it back. The top hole I think was never installed also (hex-head sheet metal screw). I did attach a picture where I think the screw should of been. There is a hole with nothing in it.Picture should rotate clockwise 90 degrees.So it looks like there are only 4 bolts holding everything together.

Looks like you lucked out on the hardest part, but I checked the service manual and didn't find any reference to a "bastard stud"......That top hole is for the sheet metal screw and easy to install if you want. The size is 1/4"-14 x 7/8".

[riggsjr]

Thank you for all the help. On the bucket list for next week to install new one. I also did find the dimple that you were all talking about.Stay tuned as I will report back.

[riggsjr]

Originally Posted by riggsjr

Thank you for all the help. On the bucket list for next week to install new one. I also did find the dimple that you were all talking about.Stay tuned as I will report back.

Well all went well. Took seat out for more room. The SOB bolt was removed at some time and not put back. Made life easier.2 hours I was done. Thanks again for all the help.

[Chris65LeMans]

Nice work - congrats!