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#41
03-13-2020, 09:58 AM
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As far as popping A arm off at the back I've had enough problem lining both sides holes on my F bodies especially if solid or Delrin bushings to try it with a spring slightly loading it. Now my old 73 Chevy truck I did that but it had a shaft held on by 4 bolts so easy to line up.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
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#42
03-13-2020, 10:28 AM
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If you have the cradle that attaches to a transmission jack, for some one that is using a lift, or attaches to a floor jack, if you're doing it on the floor, that I described way back in post #20 taking the pivot bolts out to change springs is pretty easy, providing they aren't seized to the bushing inner sleeves.
The GM shop manuals have you removing and changing springs by this method, the key is having the cradle that attaches to a jack, that in turn supports both of the bushings to make removal/installation of the pivot bolts much easier. Having done it many times both ways, I prefer the pivot bolt removal method. No spring compressor needed and much safer overall. No need to split the ball joint and possibly get the rusted cotter pins out of the ball joint spindles either. By the same token the pivot bolts can also be seized to the the inner sleeve on the bushings, creating a whole other set of problems. No matter which method you choose rust and corrosion can make it a miserable job, the safety factor is better on the pivot bolt removal method though.
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated    
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#43
03-13-2020, 11:00 PM
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 Definitely a worthwhile job to do on any original car as the factory springs are beyond worn out on most cars out there. |
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#44
03-13-2020, 11:12 PM
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Doing it for the 1st time it was no cake walk, and I was also working on a 4 post lift. If you have headers, look closely to confirm the bolts will clear.
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1970 GTO-vert, 461, eheads, stump puller, m20, 3.42 
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#45
03-14-2020, 09:35 AM
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If my headers are on the A Arm can now swing out enough to get a tall factory spring out, OK for short road race stiff springs. In fact I have 2 sets that are dimpled by the A arm one I got from a member here so he must have had the same issue!
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
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#46
03-14-2020, 09:54 AM
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#47
03-19-2020, 05:05 PM
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Am I the only one who used a 5/8" threaded rod and a 4x4 with a 5/8" hole drilled into it? the wood protected the bottom of the control arm. I'll have to see if I have pictures.
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#48
03-19-2020, 06:01 PM
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The all thread has a rating that is plenty strong enough to compress a spring safely, but he was shouted down by a few that knew more than he did............. 
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated
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#49
03-19-2020, 09:16 PM
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I've done my 55 Chevy and now my 72 Lemans with 5/8" threaded rod and nuts with thick washers made at work, along with a steel plate on bottom of A arm. I actually used two nuts on each end. Worked for me.
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#50
03-19-2020, 09:34 PM
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Never had a problem, but not so sure I would ever do that again because now I know better. Back then, who knew it should not have been used. LOL I have always used a spring compressor. Using the jack doesn't work so well if you don't have car weight behind it. Try using the jack method installing big block chevy front springs on a chassis having just the body only bolted to it. Hmmmm. Can't figure why the entire frame lifts up. (no, I didn't do this) Spring compressor and come-along connected to the coil is needed to help keep the coil going straight & true. Also, if you rent a spring compressor, they guy at the counter hasn't a clue as to the difference between a coil-over spring compressor and an age old GM body coil spring. The compressors have different fingers that hold/grip the coils. Use the wrong one and it'll slip off on you. So get the correct one even if you have to go to a couple of the parts rental places as I did to get the needed coil spring compressor. And.............make sure you have your cell phone in your shirt pocket and a crow bar at arms length just in case you get a thumb pinched between the bottom coil and the A-arm. The crow bar can be used to pry up on the coil to release your thumb. The phone is in case you can't and you need to call for help, or 911. Lot of pressure = lot of pain.  Oh, wait a minute, my thumb is not that straight anymore.
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