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#1
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Rear pinion shaft play
I inherited a car from my Dad, so I don't know the history or status on the rear end. It had a pinion seal that was leaking and was in need of some sprucing up, so I pulled the entire rear end from the car. The plan was just to replace the pinion seal and get the car running and driving.
After removing the yoke I can feel a bunch of play in the pinion shaft with the yoke out - I can easily move it laterally I would say at least a 1/16", maybe 1/8"? That seems bad to me, but I'm not that familiar with how it should be. Does this indicate bad bearings? Thanks! |
#2
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Could you move it like that BEFORE you took the nut/yoke off?
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#3
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No - it had some minor play to it, but nothing like it has now.
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#4
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Without the pinion flange on and bolted, the pinion gear will just flop around.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#5
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Great - thank you.
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#6
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Pinion seal
Hello, do you know how to properly set the pinion bearing pre-load ?
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#7
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It depends on where in the process you are. Meaning that ideally, you are installing the pinion bearings in an empty housing and the pre-load is the first thing you are doing. If that's the case lube the bearings up really well and install a new crush spacer and tighten the pinion nut. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT. I recommend a new pinion nut as well. If one isn't available, use plenty of Red locktite on the nut You have to hold the pinion flange and tighten the nut until it stops. At that point you are ready to begin the pre-load. Turn the nut about 1/4 turn and stop. You need an inch lb. torque wrench beam type or dial type to measure the slow turning torque. Slowly rotate the pinion with the torque wrench and read what it takes to keep the pinion moving. With new pinion bearings, the pre-load should be 20-25 In lbs. No more than 30. You keep tightening the nut 1/8 turn or so at a time and then measure. You don't want to overtighten at any point. If you do, you need to start over with a new crush spacer. It can be a tedious process. If for some reason you are using old bearings over, 20 inch lbs. is the spec.
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