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#1
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METHODS OF PLUGGING WATER CROSSOVER HOLE IN TIMING COVER
I need to plug the water crossover/bypass in my timing cover as Im running KRE HP heads and don't have their new dropped crossover for the HP heads.
Mostly I have seen that most people are tapping for a pipe plug to acheive this. I was wondering if anyone has tried drilling out for the nearest cup type plug ( like a 5/8 dia freeze plug) and plugging it that way. |
#2
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I would just tap it. No chance of it leaking or coming out that way.
__________________
Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion |
#3
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Tap it from the outside.Had a shop once do it on the inside and had to pull the water pump to get it out.Tom
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#4
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Steel cupplug in a relatively shallow aluminum hole is dicey. Brass plug is slightly better and still dicey. Suppose a cupplug with a lip to positive-stop under pressure is good enough.
one time i used a nut and bolt sauced in rtv. It cleared the log and worked. Later undid that in favor of a tapping and a plug. That sort also had either no thermostat (most days it never warmed up !) , or a thermostat with a bypass hole(s). I forget how that played. Noadays i keep the bypass active and use an unmodified 180 thermostat. |
#5
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Not a fan of steel expansion plugs in aluminum if for no other reason than different expansion rates with temperature increase. Seems there would be a very high probability of the expansion plug being spit out. So easy to drill and tap for a standard 3/8" pipe plug -- and your choice of steel, brass, or aluminum.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#6
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Quote:
Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#7
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This 3/8 NPT plug has a 1/4” hole drilled in it to restrict the coolant flow but you get the idea.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#8
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He’s talking about the hole in the water crossover to intake
__________________
Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion |
#9
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If the intake cross-over does not line up with the Timing Cover By-pass Hole the you may have to plug both pieces in the system: Timing Cover and Water Cross-over.
In that case you might have to plug both parts, as Bart showed (except without the hole in the plug in the Timing cover). Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#10
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Thanks everyone., It sounds like the consensus is tapping for pipe plug. Problem for me is the hole is already to big for a 3/8 pipe plug tap. I'll let you know what I do. The next size up in pipe thread requires too big of a drill for any drill chuck that I have (1/2" chuck))
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#11
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Quote:
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#12
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Quote:
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Well I know the expansion plug idea got no votes but this is what I came up with. It's not a cup plug but it is of expansion design/function except it fits a whole lot tighter. Its thicker than any cup plug of that dia.
I used a tapered drift of the appropriate diameter to expand/stretch the diameter of the tube before installing it to create a very tight press fit in the 5/8 hole. I would say the 5/8 bore length was about .200 Note the copper cap-off nipple I used (dont know the correct name for it) is much thicker than typical 5/8 copper pipe. We'll see and its something I'll keep an eye on until I can get one of those KRE dropped bypass crossovers for HPs. One thing for sure is pressure will not drive it out from the inside as the piece is like 1.250 long to the inside Last edited by RBAILEY; 04-01-2022 at 04:34 PM. |
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