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#1
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Gauge Cluster Restoration
Time to send the Tach Speedo Cluster and the Fuel Gauge Cluster out for restoration. Looking at Instrument Specialties in Rhode Island and D&M in South Carolina to name a couple. Comments and suggestions appreciated. Thx!!
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#2
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Following but was referred to redline guaged by my friend Greg. I plan on having speedonrebuolt and getting a 8 grand tac calibrated along with others like oil volts fuel temp plus new circuit board and lights.
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#3
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I used autoinstruments.com for my 70 TA about 5-6 years ago. They did a fantastic job. Fairly quick turn around at that time. I think I dealt with a guy named Gentry.
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
#4
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Any update from Jake or RamAirnacho? Who did you go with, and how were the results? I’m looking at H&H auto electrical (Tachman) in South Carolina or D&M also in South Carolina. Any other input would be appreciated. Especially if someone used the above mentioned shops.
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#5
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I went with Instrument Specialties in Rhode Island. Cluster came back better than new. Amazing work. Mailed them in and about a week later got a call with price and timeline
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to jakes1970ta For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Looks very nice!!
Did they (accidentally?) change your clock knob? it looks like the first picture has the correct black (two piece) one; The third and fourth clearly show a later chrome knob.
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#7
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My knob was broken off when I sent it in. The clock has been changed out to a quartz clock.
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The Following User Says Thank You to jakes1970ta For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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D & M did mine and included moving the redline up on the tach
Everything is working fine except for inconsistencies with the tach, but I think it's a dirty signal from the MSD distributer. That gremlin is being chased out now. Appearance wise they looked brand new though. I'd use him again. |
The Following User Says Thank You to srmmmm For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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#10
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tac
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#11
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If it's the MSD 6AL box and your using the dedicated grey tach wire, the issue could be the tach. That signal is a 20% duty cycle square wave, which means it's 80% dwell, or 36 deg dwell. The factory tach will have trouble with 80% dwell as the rpms climb. There are those of us that have modern circuitry available that handle large variations in dwell very well.
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#12
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The Following User Says Thank You to 70GS455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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#14
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One would be myself, and any others who repair tachometers. My own proprietary circuit design qualifies, as does any other's design that can accept a wide range of dwell.
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#15
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it is my understanding that the modern upgrade is good for msd and hei but if you have a 1970 1 year only 1 wire tac it will.be gutted and will no longer work on points. For this reason I would use the 2 wire tac and save my original one but that's me. once you go modern points will no longer work. I.dont understand why it doesn't and all I know is not to.modernize my 70 tac but good news is 1 can run a petronix with no problem and keep it number matching or points. I'm not building a race car just restoring my 1 st car. if my info is incorrect please correct me
just trying to.help |
#16
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I too am restoring my 1st 2nd gen F body. I am learning everyday of the many 1 or two year only parts and processes that were used on our cars. My car being a 71 would also have the one wire tach. My attention now being turned to debugging and getting all systems operational. This unfortunately includes a non operational Tach ( was working prior to restoration). It must have been “handled too much”.
My question to GS455 or any of the others who repair auto electronics either as a hobby or commercial business is do you just replace the 1 wire tach guts to get them to operate with points only? or Do you convert the 1 wire movement to a 2 wire later movement? In which case I think I would use a donor later tach as not to ruin an original one. Just looking at options. Trying to complete the car and have an operating tach, among other things. I would like to find a repair shop familiar with the early cars like ours. My preference would be to send out the whole cluster to repair the clock and tach, as well as test and calibrate the other gauges in the cluster. I appreciate any and all input about your experiences with repair shops. |
#17
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shop
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#18
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Redline Gauge works in Santa Clarita, California. Got it. Thank You.
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The Following User Says Thank You to MDSHARK81 For This Useful Post: | ||
#19
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 70GS455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#20
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So, after speaking with Redline Gauge Works I’ve decided to have them repair my original cluster ( tach/clock). Thanks Ramair. I removed the unit after dropping the column. My question is upon taking the unit out I noticed that there was a black wire connected to the last bulb on speedo side, top corner not connected to anything? is this a ground wire?, where did/does it attach?, can I just ground it to metal dash frame???
The only other connections were the single tach wire, the main multi plug, and the speedo cable. ( pretty straight forward ). |
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