[lintmann]

So I've found myself in a situation were I'm having to redo some sheet metal work that a "professional" shop had already completed for me. They replaced the driver's quarter, rear filler panel and the tail panel with original sheet metal that I had supplied. The car is a 1970 GTO hardtop.

So far I've had to redo some rust repair around the rear window. I've removed the rear filler panel because it was installed crocked. I've replaced the parcel tray from a donor car because of severe rust that wasn't addressed at the time.

So far everything looks much better but now I have to raise the rear of the driver's quarter panel and tail panel about 3/16" inch so that it aligns with the trunk.

My question is, When changing numerous panels like this, especially when someone before you has made a mess of it, what is the best way to ensure everything is squared and true to where it should be?

Thanks.

[spartazoo]

Check out this channel on YouTube. This dude is really good. Works with Firebirds, but has a video or two on squaring a car up. This may help.

https://www.youtube.com/@VinylVillageGarage

[lintmann]

Those are some very good videos that I'll bookmark for a later date. He has lots of good tips and tricks but I didn't quite see what I was looking for.

I've see some guys build a car around the roof and firewall so I'd be interested to see how those guys end up with a straight and plumb shell. I'm not going that deep but I would like to know how they do it so that I can apply some of their methods for my project.

[Ragtop Man]

Dirty secret: They were rarely square from the factory.

Mild steel is soft - the sculptor's clay of the metal fabrication industry. It carries a lot of stresses from its first moments at the mill to the day it leaves the factory.

You may be in a position where you need to improvise a method to move the metal around to get your desired match. I recall a few episodes of the "One Week Wonder" TV shows where even noted customizers are beating hell out of quarters, decks and fenders with mallets, jacks, deathwheels and torches to get them to align evenly - really, the final goal.

[b-man]

Might have to cut off the driver’s quarter as carefully as possible and hang it again in the correct position.

I know a guy who does this type of work who specializes in vintage VWs and he’s a master at his craft. I’m amazed at how he can completely dissect a patched up rusty old car or floor pan and get everything back together totally square with the world.

He did some work for me which really wasn’t all that extensive but without the familiarity and know how could have easily been screwed up. It takes someone with talent and know how, you just have to be lucky enough to come across that person i guess.

[TAKerry]

Im no pro but my 77 turned out ok. I did one piece at a time. I cut one quarter off and installed the replacement. Getting good measurements and marks. Tack in place, make sure door still aligns properly, trunk lid etc. Once the fitment was perfect weld then move on to the next part. I worked my way around the car one part at a time.

[69Customs]

I have to agree with Ragtop Man. Back in the day they did not have computerized machining like they do today so one side may not have been an exact mirrored image like cars are today.
So you just have to do the best you can.

[MUSLCAH]

Do you have a nice gap ..from trunk to 1/4 panel on the opposite side ...and the deck lid is level with the 1/4 ???

On the droopy side....you can try pushing that 1/4 up...with a porta power jack...inside the trunk area ...use a 2x4 (12 -16 inches ) or what ever you can fit under that weather strip rail...

Take the tail light out...and run the hydraulic line of the porta power jack through that opening ...hook up the porta power..pump it up slowly....then close the lid ....and pump it up gently and see if you gain anything.

[lintmann]

I think I finally got it. I still have lots to do but I think I have the "bones" it of it back to where it was before this shop made such a mess of things. My issue was never about how to move the metal, it was how to know where to and when to stop moving the metal. The gaps are all fine now. My main concern was that I wasn't fooling myself by just looking at the gaps, I also needed to make sure everything was plumb and level so that the car looked proper when viewed from the rear.

I did this by using a straight edge and digital protractor. I first measured on common points from door sill to door sill, then across the parcel tray panel, then the body line ridge on the quarter panels near the rear window and about 2' back on each side and finally on the bumper. All measurements were less than or equal too .1 to .15 degrees. I repeated them all while holding my tongue a different way and got the same basic reading so I figured it was accurate.

So now what, what do they mean? Well the measurement points were all about 5' apart(give or take) so I found an on line calculator that converts degrees to inches, I enter the numbers and it comes up with a dimension of .15" so at most, so worst case it might be just over 1/8" out at one some point which I would think is within GM specs. To verify, I took the car outside to have a good look and everything look proper to me and one of my very critical friends so I think I'm fine.

I get that this is probably a very cumbersome, novice way to try and get everything back to where it should be but it was all I could come up with. I've seen too many nice cars, only to notice that a quarter is too low or a trunk lid fits poorly because the opening isn't proper and with a little more time, that could have been corrected before paint.

If someone has a better Idea that I could have done then I'd still like to hear it, I always like to learn!

[neill]

I like what you have done. To find someone who has the skills to repair something like this is difficult. The only reason I have frame and unbody repair skills these days is because I fix a few race cars here and there. Anything new that gets repaired in my shop gets total lossed before you would replace multiple major panels and for good reason. I would not want to own a modern hybrid or electric vehicle with their complex ADAS systems after severe damage had occurred