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#1
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Convertible top switch heat
Replacing my vert top and in process had an issue (this cropped up a time or two in the past) with my top switch being loose in dash and not able to lower top. I would have to press harder to get switch to activate. I removed spring retainer from back of dash and as I held switch, top was able to activate. But, as I held with fingers a bit toward back, I noticed switch was very hot and had to hold by edges as I activated it. Is this normal? Should there be extreme heat as it is an electrical device?
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#2
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A switch will get hot if there is a poor contact in it. If it still works, perhaps add a relay or two controlled by the switch which moves the task of controlling the higher current load to the relays.
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#3
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Take the switch out and carefully disassemble it (not hard) and clean all the contacts, then reassemble. Should solve the problem. Or get a new switch.
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#4
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Thanks. I was curious if this was a fire hazard? I didn't look to see where the harness for it unplugs. Hopefully it's not hidden too bad if I decide to take it out. Right now my priority is finishing putting my new top on.
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#5
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The harness unplugs about 6" from the switch. The plastic parts of your switch would probably melt before any real fire threat. I just had a new top put on last week and it looks perfect. I give you credit for trying it yourself. My guy has been doing GM tops for 35 years and it still took him and his crew 3 days.
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#6
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Ok thanks. Ya, I did the whole frame off resto myself. Painted in garage and recovered interior in basement. The top was good, but a bit dirty and hard to clean white. The rear plastic window was a bit fogged too. It gets a stock glass one this time. One good thing about doing it myself is there are some things that had rusted underneath and am able to repair. If I had someone else take this on, it may have either cost more if they knew how to fixit or it would get passed over and put together. Many of my front header tangs that hold the tack strip on for stappling the front of top underside were rusted away (gone) or very thin. I had to make about 20 to replace. Was able to paint my frame too. I had replaced a top on my 80 Fiat Spider 124 vert, but that was easy as it was so small.
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#7
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Quote:
Easier than my 71 Lemans and a hell of a lot easier than my 66 442! |
#8
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I had 2 complete '70 convertible top frames and on both the front header bow was rusted beyond repair. Got a brand new piece for around $250. I bead blasted, painted and reassembled the frame myself but left the actual fabric installation to more experienced craftsman. I give you mucho credit for doing it yourself.
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#9
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Jimbobeast, what do they charge to do a top replace now? Did they provide top? I wanted a place that did a 68 Chevelle in 1990 for me to do it. The kid runs it now. He said they would get the top and start at $1500 labor to start. I had no idea where I would be in the end. So, I decided to tackle myself since I've done the whole car myself. The glass rear window is kicking my but trying to get it in the right place. The white top has to cover the black window frame at top of window. I've had to keep raising window so top covers it. Now today I find it is to close to the top rear bow and won't close correctly without probably breaking the glass. Stinks, because I had the rear curtain tight and adjusted. Now I may have to lower it. I think I'm going to proceed to start top and see where it actually comes down to. My old top had a plastic window and it seems the new top may actually be a bit longer back there. If it doesn't work, I'm going back to plastic to get it done.
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#10
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Jimbobeast, I assume you have a 70. Do you have a glass rear window? What is the dimension from your rear pinch weld molding to bottom of glass? Looking to see how much vinyl is actually suppose to be at bottom showing. Thanks.
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#11
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I can measure tomorrow. Yes, a '70. I think the total cost was around $2500, including top, well, pads and glass rear window, but I can check on that also tomorrow.
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#12
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Here she is coming home with new top.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jimbobeast For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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TJ:
I measured both cars. The red car had a top made out of a modern cloth-like material such as found on Porsche or Mercedes. The Orbit Orange car has a stock vinyl top. Both have glass windows. The red Judge is modified. The Orbit Orange Judge is stock. I would trust the Orange car measurement of 3.75" rather than the red car's 5.25". I don't think it makes much difference. Both look good and function properly. The cost for the vinly top, glass window, well liner, pads and installation was $2,487.75 The top frame was completely restored by me, new tack strips, front header bow and all pieces disassembled, bead blasted, epoxy coated, new rubber roof rails and functioning hydraulics. They did a spectacular job. They had the car for 3 days. All the babies are tucked away awaiting hurricane Helene. Jim |
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