[Jack P.]

So I got the replacement cam gear today, the marks/dot are in the same place.
The distributor is new, is there any way for it to show a mark that is not where it shows,
or do I dig into the cam and see if I can find anything. I'm at a loss for what to do next.

[Schurkey]

Put it together "dot-to-dot", enough that you can crank the engine. Maybe even leave the timing cover OFF, for now.

Take a cranking compression test like I asked previously. Post the results. You took the engine apart too soon, you should have done some diagnosis before disassembly.

Low cranking compression will make for a pig of an engine. You might be able to improve low compression by moving the cam around with advance/retard sprockets or offset keys. If compression is good, you've mostly verified basic bottom-end health, so the problem is probably in the carb or distributor, or the cam is too "wild".

You could verify the cam with a degree wheel, and a dial indicator and a dial indicator holder that slides into a lifter bore, or a magnetic base and then measure either valve lift at the retainer, or the pushrod end of the rocker arm, or the edge of the lifter if you've got a long enough stem on the indicator.

[Jack P.]

Driver side front to firewall #1 175
#3 175
#5 175
#7 170
Passenger side front to back #2 195
#4 125
#6 190
#8 180
Compression check.
As far as the cam being wild, I don't think so as when it has ran, and I have ran it quiet a bit, it idles smooth, no more than a 068 but more likely the 350hp 400.

[mchell]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

Driver side front to firewall #1 175
#3 175
#5 175
#7 170
Passenger side front to back #2 195
#4 125
#6 190
#8 180
Compression check.
As far as the cam being wild, I don't think so as when it has ran, and I have ran it quiet a bit, it idles smooth, no more than a 068 but more likely the 350hp 400.

Might want to re-check #4 and do a leak down on it as well...

Could squirt a little oil in it and see if the pressure goes up......Tell you something at the least

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by mchell

Might want to re-check #4 and do a leak down on it as well...

Could squirt a little oil in it and see if the pressure goes up......Tell you something at the least

I put in oil equal to about a full drinking straw, compression went up to about #150.
Could it be a bad cam lobe. I will work on the leak down test if I get home from work tomorrow.

[mchell]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

I put in oil equal to about a full drinking straw, compression went up to about #150.
Could it be a bad cam lobe. I will work on the leak down test if I get home from work tomorrow.

Rings?.......a leak down will reveal better info

[Jack P.]

Untill I get a chance to do a leak down, does this issue have any relationship to my original problem. Still wondering if it has the wrong crank that puts the balancer mark in the wrong spot?
Looks like two separate problems.

[steve25]

The Crank keyway location on all of there cranks reguardless of stroke was the same.

As posted above, it's time for a leak down test!

[mchell]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

Untill I get a chance to do a leak down, does this issue have any relationship to my original problem. Still wondering if it has the wrong crank that puts the balancer mark in the wrong spot?
Looks like two separate problems.

Even with the one cylinder being a bit low, I doubt it

["QUICK-SILVER"]

This initial timing problem been there the whole time or show up after the points to HEI swap?

I've seen reversed wires on pick-up coils cause this way off timing thing to happen.

Clay

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

This initial timing problem been there the whole time or show up after the points to HEI swap?

I've seen reversed wires on pick-up coils cause this way off timing thing to happen.

Clay

That is a good question. I removed the oem distributor when I was putting the car/engine
together as the FiTech EFI needed 12 v tach signal so I bought a new online HEI.
What can I check, are talking about the coil wires built into the cap?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

What can I check, are talking about the coil wires built into the cap?

Where the pick-up coil wires plug to the module. I've run across a few that the green and white wires were reversed. Had to be defects because the terminal ends are different sizes.

Clay

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Where the pick-up coil wires plug to the module. I've run across a few that the green and white wires were reversed. Had to be defects because the terminal ends are different sizes.

Clay

Verified the white and green are connected properly.

[Jack P.]

Well I did a leak down on #4 and my results are input 70psi, cylinder gauge 30psi.
The air is most definitely escaping out the tail pipe. I am surprised because it ran so smooth.
Guess I have two problems now.

[mchell]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

Well I did a leak down on #4 and my results are input 70psi, cylinder gauge 30psi.
The air is most definitely escaping out the tail pipe. I am surprised because it ran so smooth.
Guess I have two problems now.

Yes, they can still run very good on 7 out of 8.....