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#21
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Whenever I've tried it, it helped for a very short time only. Whatever the underlying cause for the overheating still exists. So adding a small volume of additional fluid to the system won't fix it.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Ray Klemm calibrated Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
#22
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If all is working well it shouldn’t hurt anything. If your engine is getting hit check the divider plate to impeller gap . .
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
The Following User Says Thank You to turbo69bird For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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#24
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My FIRST engine overhaul, which then immediately went a thousand miles to visit a girlfriend. Wandering through the mountains, the heater core/heater fan was turned on and off depending on grade. The heater core was reliably removing about ten degrees from the temperature, which means more heat than that because I was only using it on the uphill sections when the engine was under additional load.
Higher load...but lower temperature. The heater core/heater fan can remove a significant amount of heat. The downside is that it removes that heat by making the passenger compartment almost un-livable. "I" would not want to be without that heater core. But then, this is the Seasonally-Frozen Wastelands, not Florida. I've had ALL I can take of driving around with little candles on the dashboard to keep the windshield clear. |
#25
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It can be done on a A-Body without removing the front fender 64-67 Body. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#26
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This thread/debate is educational for me....she runs a little hot but only on the hottest days with a four core...
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#27
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IMO, I would not want to go without the option to have heat or defrost so I would fix it. My 69 400 likes to run hot especially when stuck in traffic so I installed an electric push fan in front of the radiator and that helps a lot. The good thing is that you can't see it and the wiring is hidden so no one knows it's there.
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#28
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Just a reminder about your vacuum advance. If it's connected to a ported source it will run significantly hotter at idle (like in heavy traffic or a parade). Made huge difference in my car. Like 180 vs 210 or more.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Ray Klemm calibrated Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
#29
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FWIW, because I went through the same thing. I can say for absolute certain that having it hooked up is the right thing to do. I let mine go for years because I didnt want to deal with replacing the blower. Not so much the heat, but not having the defroster really affected me driving the car. There were times around here that even in nice weather mornings I would crest a hill and the windshield would instantly fog over. So it made me scared to drive the car in the mornings or any time I felt the air might be too humid.
I hooked it up a few months ago and dont know why I waited so long to do it.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
The Following User Says Thank You to RocktimusPryme For This Useful Post: | ||
#30
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It’s F body …77 TA….I’ve been search for a good step by step….if you got any good links
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#31
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Back then I didn't have the option not to drive my cars in the rain as they were my main mode of transportation. I've never owned a "show car". Too poor lol. I lived 56 years in north central fla, central fla and the last 5 in the panhandle. You do need a heater in Florida the same way you need AC in Michigan. It's a convenience. It freezes in central fla. Just ask the citrus farmers. With the humidity in fla the warm defroster is a must for me. I can only comment on my experience, but respect and appreciate others opinion on the subject. |
#32
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Better to have and not need than to need and not have
As others have stated; attempting to drive with fogged windshield from not having heater is very inconvenient.
I lived with that many years until getting A/C delete box on my 1969 Firebird. I also thought that my engine was cooling better than when it was capped at rear of passenger head and at timing cover. I live in Las Vegas and summer heat is well above 100 degrees. |
#33
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It adds probably 1-2 quarts to the cooling system and adds a fan so running a heater core will give you some edge in a marginal cooling system on a hot day. As far as rotting the floor out, that won't happen, because antifreeze has rust inhibitors in it. Eventually the coolant evaporates, even if you don't dry the carpet, done it many times.
If you're in a climate that needs a heater, then the coolant should have antifreeze too, not straight water. It's also smarter to run a rust inhibitor to protect the inside of the cooling system against corrosion. Yes, I have bypassed heater cores as a temporary measure to get home, and get a new core installed. Heater cares are easy on some cars, and incredibly hard on others, A/C usually complicates installing them. I've also dumped pepper into the cooling system for a temporary stop leak, it usually holds about a week. Use Bars Leaks pellets if you want it to last longer. It doesn't clog heater cores, because I have it in several of my daily drivers for years, heaters still work excellent. Always living near the great lakes, I usually need a heater core to keep moisture off the inside of the windshield. Even in Phoenix AZ in January it was 40 degrees a few mornings, Florida the same way, in February when I went to the Daytona 500 and stayed in the panhandle for a week, 40 degrees wasn't unusual. If you're not going to store a car from October to March you'll need a heater core at sometime. When we go to dirt tracks even during summer months I need a heater to keep moisture off the windshield after the sun goes down. |
#34
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Moved to Kalamazoo Michigan to attend college there. My Uncle was a Pontiac Dealer for 67 years in Michigan. 5+ years in the Michigan Salt killed my convertible frame. So I can relate to having to drive my Pontiac vehicle in cold weather. A rust free Georgia Frame was purchased and installed later on. Car is never driven in the winter these days. Car has heater delete now. I respect your requirements for the car too. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#35
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He probably just removed the compressor and brackets , not the whole HVAC box. Pain in the ass and pain/slices on the hands and fingers to replace that heater core. fwiw If you have some spare hose , put a piece back on each core nipple , blow into the upper hose and let the lower hose drain into something. Get as much out as possible with some compressed air. Take the fuse out for your blower motor for a while if your windshield has been getting fogged or filmed from the leaking core. They run on a slow speed at all times in your type of car , even when in the Off position. Go to a car wash and use their vacuum on passenger side carpet. Maybe pour some extra water on it a couple times to dilute it , and vacuum some more. You can replace the core some other time if you need to have it. |
#36
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Jeff |
#37
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my owner's manual says to turn the heater on if the engine starts to overheat.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
#38
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It works in the movies. Watch the chase scene in the 1971 movie Dual where Dennis Weaver plays a businessman terrorized by an 18 wheeler while driving thru the desert in his Dodge Dart.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
#39
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Thanks Tom V. |
#40
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I learned about it from an episode of Simon & Simon before I even owned a car.
That is about the only thing I remember from any episode of their show. The older brother was running the heat on high on a 100+ day and the younger brother was going nuts about it. It was an old Dodge truck For some reason it always stuck with me. |
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