[BILTIT]

I am seriously looking at an oil cooler, only concern is can my water pump provide enough volume for both engine and cooler or is an external water pump required for a cooler?

Looking at this cooler:

http://www.kevkoracing.com/oil-cooler.html

I should add, i have water injection on the headers and a water cooled v-drive aswell .

[Tom Vaught]

Ford Cop cars use this stuff at one time. http://www.laminova.se/

"Balls to the Wall" oil temps might be 360-370 degrees F and engine water temps 180 degrees F creeping to 200 on a "Balls to the Wall" emergency run.

So the cooler pulls 170 degrees of heat out of the oil using the stock Ford Coolant system on one side of the heat exchanger and the oil system on the other side.
No external pump required.

Tom Vaught

[BILTIT]

According to my engine water temp i see 140-160, never hotter (going to test it though as it doesn't move much)

I will add an engine oil temp gauge when i change pans aswell.

If these boat engines ran stock water pumps I wouldn't be as concerned but the style of pumps they run have a much smaller impeller. I think it is a nicson neovane v-755, many boats run coolers so I don't think it is an issue but not for certain. I know there are bigger pumps out there (magna flow makes some too).

[BILTIT]

Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE

An oil cooler is an absolute must. they are very easy to install,just an oil line in and out and a water line in and out. Bigger capacity just means the oil warms up more slowly.10 qt. and a cooler will be fine.

I have a 66 Hallett V-Drive flat bottom with a 425 Buick nail head.

Ken, have any pics you wish to share?

What style of cooler/water pump are you using?


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[69Goat1]

Mine is a Jet Boat so I can run ant temperature I want with a valve. My water pump is the jet

[RA462]

I just made a pan close to the pictures in post #6 out of a GTO Canton pan for my Grand Prix. I drilled some 3/4" holes in the front of the sump and added 4" to the length of it to make the sump 12" long. I would post pictures but my phone is a POS. No reason you couldn't go even longer in a boat.

http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthr...ighlight=stefs

[KEN CROCIE]

Using a neovane. the forward motion of the boat brings in LOTS of water(assuming the water pickup is facing forward.

[BILTIT]

Yes I am almost certain the water pickup is facing forward.


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[BILTIT]

Originally Posted by shaker455

Very Cool!

Here is a pic that made me pucker pretty tight!! Mashed the pedal and just happened to be on a small set of waves, the boat jumped right out of the water! The last one is full throttle acceleration i think.

[shaker455]

Glad to see my carbs did the trick!
nice jump! keep the pics & movies coming Derek

[BILTIT]

I should have some more pics/vids this summer.

Anyone use rpm engine products?

Looking to replace the rods in the boat engine this winter. I found a local sale of rpm rods & forged crank with kb forged pistons ($1500cad). It's a stroker kit for a 400 block (I have a 400 sitting here). I assume the 3" main would be better than the 3.25" especially in a marine application? Would splayed main caps be needed or will this engine survive fine with stock 2/4bolt?

If I use this kit my compression will be lowered to 9.5:1 vs the 11.8:1 I have now. Not a bad thing but may notice it in performance.


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[Tom Vaught]

Compression Ratio directly relates to torque across the rpm band.

If you go by the old HO Racing rule of thumb: 1 ratio = 3% gain or loss

You will be down slightly more than 2 ratios so about a 6% loss thru out the horsepower curve.

Tom V.

[David Holmberg]

Great boat Derek, and you're nuts trying to go more than 70 in that short of a boat.
(I'd do it too)

[BILTIT]

Haha thanks, I don't really want to go faster. 70 is lots but now I just wish mostly to get my rpm down a bit (6000 is too much for stock rods and heavy trw's).


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[455-4+1]

Originally Posted by David Holmberg

Great boat Derek, and you're nuts trying to go more than 70 in that short of a boat.
(I'd do it too)

SHORTEN IT UP !!!!

Anything over 12ft at over 70mph is a waste

[BILTIT]

So i pulled the engine and pan since i could not get a dipstick in last year (wrong windage tray i think). i thought i would take a look at the bearings and this is how they look, thoughts?

Mains #2&3

That is one summer of wear, nothing that grabs they finger nail. I think the main caps have "walked" in the past, they come right out when the bolts are removed and some small markings on the block where they sit. I think this is due to the nitrous that was used on this engine by the previous owner.

What is the easiest fix for the caps? New block/caps? align hone?

I have other blocks on hand but all would need machining.

What is the proper pieces i need to fix my dipstick issue? I have a 70 block, baffled pan, windage tray without hole in it for tube right now and also have the windage tray with a hole.

I assume i need the tray with hole and a lower tube correct?

[BILTIT]

I should mention the crank looks perfect.

I was running conventional 15w-40 diesel oil (i know i know) last year with 80psi cold and 60psi warm running pressure. I will be going to amsoil 15w-50 racing synthetic this year.

If i recall correctly the main clearances were around .0025-.003.

I just remembered this is the oil i broke the motor in with as well, forgot to change it wooopsy!


455-4+1 was kind enough to send me some sketches of the type of baffling i should try if i fab a pan, unfortunately it wont happen until this winter. Holidays start on the 25th of this month and i want to go boating! lol

I plan to pull the boat completely apart this winter and re-anodize all the aluminum parts as they are really faded. I will clean/repaint the inside floor of the boat as well.

[BILTIT]

Here is the pics:






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[lilabner]

I raced GN and Ocean boats back in the 68-73 era. I worked for Holman Moody Marine. They had the best cast alum oil pans and oil coolers made back then for the Ford FE engines. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holman-and-M...item1c3d0bf109
I ran a Rayson Craft with a 468 Ford and later a Mandella with a 460 Chevy. We used an oil pan made by Tom Davis at Aviad in the Chevy. Most guys running a Chevy or Chrysler used Aviad or Keith Black. Aviad is still in business, but Tom Davis has left us.
We never used water pumps, just water pressure. I know if you are pleasure boating you need a pump. Some oil pans on race boats had copper tubing silver soldered inside them with U bends outside the pans. Water went through the tubes before going into the engine. Object was to cool the oil and heat the water a little. It worked real good in the old days. Not much different today in boats.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

So i pulled the engine and pan since i could not get a dipstick in last year (wrong windage tray i think). i thought i would take a look at the bearings and this is how they look, thoughts?

Mains #2&3

That is one summer of wear, nothing that grabs they finger nail. I think the main caps have "walked" in the past, they come right out when the bolts are removed and some small markings on the block where they sit. I think this is due to the nitrous that was used on this engine by the previous owner.

What is the easiest fix for the caps? New block/caps? align hone?

I have other blocks on hand but all would need machining.

What is the proper pieces i need to fix my dipstick issue? I have a 70 block, baffled pan, windage tray without hole in it for tube right now and also have the windage tray with a hole.

Luhn Performance did some research on main cap fretting (walking) in the past and may have a solution for you on that deal. They came up with some new main cap hardware that is supposed to reduce that "walking" quiet a bit, even in a 2 bolt main block.

Might be worth a phone call.

Tom V.