[Xelerator]

Originally Posted by Hotrodizz

These 2 items were screwed to the LH fenderwell, any ideas?

Looks like someone tried to "rig" up something on their own. The item mounted to the fender looks like a breaker, like possibly a 30amp breaker. I can not tell what the other items is but clearly these are not "factory" installs.

[Hotrodizz]

Originally Posted by thefirebirdm@n

I did the same thing. Complete disassembled the nose and had it painted bare. I had all the brackets blasted and powdercoated and it came out great:

Looks great, and am looking forward to the point you are at.

[CaptCrunch]

Originally Posted by Hotrodizz

Looks great, and am looking forward to the point you are at.

I highly recommend powder coating.......did almost everything on my Formula and it provides an outstanding finish......if you do it in large batches it isn't bad $$ wise either.........

[Hotrodizz]

My coater quoted me $500 to do the subframe, a-arms, core support, bumper support, fenderwells, and any other misc underhood brackets & supports. I thought my 59 Impala complete x-frame for $700 was a bargain a few years back, but this seems even better.

[CaptCrunch]

Originally Posted by Hotrodizz

My coater quoted me $500 to do the subframe, a-arms, core support, bumper support, fenderwells, and any other misc underhood brackets & supports. I thought my 59 Impala complete x-frame for $700 was a bargain a few years back, but this seems even better.

It has come down......you cant hardly sandblast and paint for that.........

[thefirebirdm@n]

Originally Posted by Hotrodizz

My coater quoted me $500 to do the subframe, a-arms, core support, bumper support, fenderwells, and any other misc underhood brackets & supports. I thought my 59 Impala complete x-frame for $700 was a bargain a few years back, but this seems even better.

That is a GREAT deal!! I spent $500 just for the sub-frame and a few small parts. Another $200 on a large batch of parts including core support, inner fenders etc... so I prob have $750 in coating front end parts.

[Hotrodizz]

Finished removal of the glass and front end sheet metal, and the motor came out this afternoon. A productive day making the parts pile larger. Now on to the rear of the car.




Upon removal, I found some damage to the AC box. It appears to have been when the headers were installed on the car 20 years go. Hopefully, we can repair it

We restored the air cleaner a few weeks ago, and I am anxious to get to the "restoring" and be finished with this messy brown tear down.


So far, I know I need a LH upper air duct (not sure what years interchange), rear bumper guard rubber, front spoiler hardware, battery tray (repro), and possibly an AC outer heater box (not sure what years will be correct).

[thefirebirdm@n]

Could definitely use your help with the bolt guide. I couldn't cross hardly any of the bolts used to mount the alternator & associated brackets or the A/C compressor & associated brackets. Sooo if you get some time

[Hotrodizz]

Most important tool thus far

[Hotrodizz]

Originally Posted by thefirebirdm@n

Could definitely use your help with the bolt guide. I couldn't cross hardly any of the bolts used to mount the alternator & associated brackets or the A/C compressor & associated brackets. Sooo if you get some time

Sorry for the delay, do you still need this info?

[thefirebirdm@n]

Originally Posted by Hotrodizz

Sorry for the delay, do you still need this info?

I have some information to work with and need to do an update. I'll get back to you. hopefully your labeling all the bolts as you remove them . Very cool idea on the labeler. Use those alot building datacenters but never thought to use one to restore a car!!

[Hotrodizz]

ok, feel free to email me, Ill help where I can.

[OVERULD]

Another fun project to follow! Good luck with it!

BJ

[Hotrodizz]

parts are back from Coating already. It was a little more expensive than the quoted price, but still very fair. Core support has some pitting from a leaking battery, that is my only disappointment.


I started stripping the firewall, cowl and interior floor boards this weekend.



Is there a particular seam sealer I should use on the cowl and the in interior?

[thefirebirdm@n]

I used 3M Fast n Firm Sealer and was very happy with it. I bought it in a "caulk gun" style tube and applied it that way. Once I had it applied I went back and tried to smooth it flat to mimic the factory method. Just don't try to do too much at once because it really is fast. Dries fairly quick.

[71formula455]

I'm using the powder coating approach with my 71.

My question is:

Are you using any sort of clear coat or protective coating on top of your powercoated parts?

My concern is I've heard that powercoating may become "chalky" over time due to UV.

Is this true? Anyone have thoughts on this?

[Hotrodizz]

Ive used it a lot, and havent experienced that problem.

[Hotrodizz]

AFter stripping some areas to bare metal last weekend, I wanted to get something over the bare metal, so I shot some DP74.


Spent time this weekend pressure washing some of the parts, and taking pictures.
Before

After


Measurement from where front of tubing begins



Found this in the trunk, any ideas?

[Brewster]

There is a tire bar sleeve that goes over the jack and creates a pocket for the tire bar. Hard to tell size of this item from your picture since there is no reference but it could be that ?

[Hotrodizz]

Took the driveshaft down to bare metal, then painted it. I still have to reproduce the factory markings on it.


I still may replace the fuel and brake lines, but I started cleaning them up with a wire wheel, and a coat of clear.

My original faded 73 front mat, with the repro 73+ mat that some of the vendors are selling.

Some of the original interior plastics with a fresh coat of red


Still waiting for the body shop to let me bring the shell to them