[DANTIP]

I used the Lectric Limited. It uses just one wire and looks completely stock once installed. Best mod I've ever done!!!

http://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless_se.htm

[66 Gas Tires Oil]

how are you picking up your 12 Volt? some fuse block terminals are switched off during crank. not like a chevy. found that out when converting my 66.

Jim

[firstyearta]

the distributor shaft end play needs to be as minimal as possible.
If you set the gap on the trigger wheel of the pertronix, and have too much end play (many dizzys have .060-.090 or more)
when you start the engine ,the end play allows the shaft to rise up out of the dizzy, as the way the dizzy and cam gears are cut. That increases the gap between the trigger ring and the pickup/module assembly
Best to pull the dizzy, get the end play down to about 16-20 thousanths, then set up the pertronix.
I think the instructions mention this problem somewhere.
Also when making the end play adjustment, care is needed to be used when installing the dizzy back in the motor to be sure that the dizzy shaft is not bottoming out on the oil pump before the dizzy housing contacts the seat for the distributor on the block.
If the dizzy is allowed to "load the shaft against the oil pump it can and will damage the oil pump and ultimately the engine.
The distributor flange needs to contact the block and not bottom out on the oil pump.Best to check it without a dizzy gasket to be sure, then with a gasket in place you know you have some clearance.

I was very careful to check and set the gap (had to add one shim). It could possible still be off, but I doubt it.

[dmac]

I used mallory uni-lite conversion and was very happy, until I screwed it up by shorting it out. They now have protection from accidental shorting included..

If I remember right, you can use the original resistance wire, but it was over 20 years ago when I installed it. Ran for years until I screwed it up.

[Blue1967GTO]

I used a Pertronix Ignitor II in my GTO stock distributor for 5 years with no problems. 4 years ago I did a big engine rebuild and went with a Pertronix Ignitor III to get a rev limiter and it's worked perfectly so far. So that's 9 years of no problems. Probably just jinxed myself.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by john65ss

I have also tried the original Pertronix (with magnet ring) on two different cars. Both ended up going back to points. Never again.

The last non-functioning Pertronix I looked at had the + and - wires reversed. Not surprisingly, when I corrected the previous installer's wiring fault, it still didn't work.

Originally Posted by john65ss

I am wondering if the Mallory e-spark kits are any better?

Aren't those the same as the old Unilite module? The Unilite was a fragile POS. Even Mallory suggests you buy a $40 "Power Filter" to prevent frying the Unilite module.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29351

[grandville455]

Pertonix works, just dont have the key on and engine not running , they will burn out alot faster that way.

[george kujanski]

Wiring and install errors are the bane of electronics. It's not forgiving. No engineer in his or hers right mind would release a design into production that doesn't work.

I've installed several units and they work correctly.

The Ignitor versions are points-replacements and the key should never be on for extended periods with the engine not running. The Ignitor II is more like the HEI design; it is safe to leave key on with engine not running, but why do it anyway? That's what the ACC position is for.

A point system has the same problem if the engine stops with the points closed...the coil can get hot and fail.

I've read all these horror stories and I'll bet 90% of them are due to miswiring/ and or customer-induced damage. Not blaming anyone directly, just sayin' one has to be careful and read the install instructions.

George

[60man]

Originally Posted by 66 Gas Tires Oil

how are you picking up your 12 Volt? some fuse block terminals are switched off during crank. not like a chevy. found that out when converting my 66.

Jim

BINGO !!!! On my 60 when you crank it it kills power elswhere except.dizzy/coil...
The Pertronix is wired up different and winds up without power during cranking..
I wired in a seperate toggle switch on my 60 and just supply direct power to Pertronix and Shazam...!! It starts. Many ways to cure but that is mine.... Will try a relay activated when cranking next...soon as I figure it out..

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

Wiring and install errors are the bane of electronics. It's not forgiving. No engineer in his or hers right mind would release a design into production that doesn't work...

...I've read all these horror stories and I'll bet 90% of them are due to miswiring/ and or customer-induced damage. Not blaming anyone directly, just sayin' one has to be careful and read the install instructions.

George

But good engineers think about the typical installation and use problems that are likely to happen, ESPECIALLY on parts and accessories that are sold as a "DIY" product. They design circuits that aren't sensitive to those issues...like making an ignition circuit robust enough to accept the voltage of a full-fielded alternator without messing the bed.

Morongineers build a product that "works" under fairly ideal conditions, using as many surplus parts that are already "in inventory", at the lowest-possible cost, giving the highest-possible profit margin. It's especially rewarding for them if the product can be built to fail just outside of the warranty, and cannot be repaired. They won't challenge Management when Management wants a product that would be unethical to produce.

[LATECH]

Originally Posted by 60man

BINGO !!!! On my 60 when you crank it it kills power elswhere except.dizzy/coil...
The Pertronix is wired up different and winds up without power during cranking..
I wired in a seperate toggle switch on my 60 and just supply direct power to Pertronix and Shazam...!! It starts. Many ways to cure but that is mine.... Will try a relay activated when cranking next...soon as I figure it out..

The "R" or "I" terminal on the starter is a ignition feed bypass for when you are cranking the engine. If you run a wire from it to your coil + it will have power while cranking.
Just run the extra wire ( actually it should be in the harness either yellow or white) down to the starter .If you have it bolted on with the purple wire, then move it to the other terminal .DONT just hook it up like that as it will cause the starter to run and run and run .......

[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by firstyearta

And just an update... after trying just about everything else, I finally pulled the Pertronix out and put the points back in and just like magic, my car runs 100% better.

old school for the win!

[67gtospud]

Does anybody else have experience with the lectric limited HEI conversion? Did a little research and seems like all the corvette guys love it. I'm not overly concerned about original look but an HEI distributor won't fit with my edelbrock P65 intake.

[DANTIP]

Originally Posted by 67gtospud

Does anybody else have experience with the lectric limited HEI conversion? Did a little research and seems like all the corvette guys love it. I'm not overly concerned about original look but an HEI distributor won't fit with my edelbrock P65 intake.

Yep, I mentioned it in post #21. Easy to install and works flawlessly. Also only requires 1 (like the original) wire. Great Mod!!

Dan

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

But good engineers think about the typical installation and use problems that are likely to happen, ESPECIALLY on parts and accessories that are sold as a "DIY" product. They design circuits that aren't sensitive to those issues...like making an ignition circuit robust enough to accept the voltage of a full-fielded alternator without messing the bed.

Morongineers build a product that "works" under fairly ideal conditions, using as many surplus parts that are already "in inventory", at the lowest-possible cost, giving the highest-possible profit margin. It's especially rewarding for them if the product can be built to fail just outside of the warranty, and cannot be repaired. They won't challenge Management when Management wants a product that would be unethical to produce.

Morongineers, I like that! I seem to run into their work quite often!

[67gtospud]

Originally Posted by DANTIP

Yep, I mentioned it in post #21. Easy to install and works flawlessly. Also only requires 1 (like the original) wire. Great Mod!!

Dan

How long have you had it installed and how many miles?

[beemergary]

Originally Posted by DANTIP

Yep, I mentioned it in post #21. Easy to install and works flawlessly. Also only requires 1 (like the original) wire. Great Mod!!

Dan

I have them in two cars with no problems. If they did fail just put the points back in. Had two Pertronics fail. Nuked one while having the key on to trace an electrical gremlin. The other not a clue. You have to pull the dizzy gear to convert back to points. Also like the single wire stock look.

[DANTIP]

Originally Posted by 67gtospud

How long have you had it installed and how many miles?

I installed one (Vintage GM truck) 4-5 years ago and probably put 5,000 miles on it. I also installed one in my GTO 2 years ago and have put around 4,000 miles on it. The only hick-up I've had was I learned it won't run if the wire isn't tight (installer error). Installation was quick and the GTO loves it. If you look at their web site you'll notice they engineered out many user type failures like leaving the key on. Great product!

[My442]

I have used Pertronix Ignitors for the past 15 years without a hiccup.

The LSS version, the II and III versions as well.

The coils and wires are good as well.

They need a full 12 volts to get the most out of them.

[geeteeohguy]

Have run nothing but the stock points distributors in my GTO's for over 35 years with no problems and 100's of thousands of miles. Aside from normal maintenance (which I enjoy) there is no reliability downside to points, and no performance gain from electronic, only the convenience of not replacing points every so often. I'd rather do that than be stuck out on the road with a dead HEI unit.