[DiamondJim]

Get some more miles on it and I bet it will run cooler. -Jim

[Alumitech]

Originally Posted by 455Grandville

Drill a couple 1/64" ths holes in the thermostat.

It is suprising how many t/stats these days are of poor quality ...I have seen many post on several forums about Mr gasket t/stats .. not to mention some others .. offten we see people chasing down a heat condition only to find after checking everything else that the t/stat was only opening part way or not at correct temps .

one way to find the efficiency of your cooling system is to pull the t/stat all together to take out any restriction /valve .. for hi flow ...if the rad / cooling system is not up to the task .. you may see the temps go to 210 .. thats the best the rad can do .. then it may be time to up grade .

Don

[66Mutt]

The carb is pulling vacuum at idle (I've got to take it back to the guys I got it from) but that shouldn't be an issue, right?

I am not sure what you mean with this sentence but I suspect it may be an ignition timing issue too.

As mentioned if the vac advance is not functioning or sufficient, then the temps will rise. What is your total advance with the vacuum advance connected at idle?

I would run the vacuum advance connected to a manifold vacuum source. Ported sources only came along when they wanted to raise the exhaust gas temps so that more of the hydrocarbons would be burned and reduce the emissions.
A leaky vacuum advance cannister could be the problem.
Also, what is your engine vacuum reading at idle and in drive?
Use a vacuum gauge, pump and timing light to pull a vac on the distributor vac advance and note level of vacuum at which the distributor vac advance begins and ends. It could be that you do not have sufficient engine vacuum to actuate the vacuum advance at idle. Ideally, you would want the distributor vac advance fully deployed an inch or two below your engines's manifold vacuum reading at idle.
If your vac advance is not advancing, you may want to replace the vacuum cannister with one that starts at lower vacuum levels such as 5" to 8". Your cannister may be adjustable with the hex key or you can buy adjustable cannisters. However, I have not been pleased with a couple of adjustable units that I purchased.
Doug

[Geoff]

Ditto to comments on vacuum advance in posts #23 & #17.

Use a Crane adjustable vacuum advance unit & you can dial in the AMOUNT & RATE of vac adv to suit your engine.

I have also had the high flow Mr. Gasket stats fail. They are easy to recognise. They use a combination of brass & s/steel. The good quality units are all brass construction.

[Robert Williams]

You may also want to try a recovery tank on your car if the car does not have one, you may be surprised with a lower temp reading.

Some of the guys don't want to install a recovery tank on a car that didn't have one from the factory as they want the car to look stock.

A recovery system will keep the air out of the system as well as keeping the system full of coolant. Jim Hand has info on this in his book on page #119.

[TIN TIGR]

always ditch the stat on a hot rod..experiment with restrictor sizes..find what flow speed your system handles best..and yes,most new stats are low grade..


never assume your radiator is up to the task..ask the manafacturer..be honest with your hp/heat values....nothing is worse than an out of control heat engine..

the engine in my new doodle was running hot..it was becuz of poor building/tuning techniques, and the radiator was about 20% too small..you have to look at everything, and assume nothing..i trusted and got screwed..good luck

[455Grandville]

Paul: did you drill the two 1/64"ths holes yet ?!?

Is the waterpump new ? You might want to remove the back plate and see how much clearance is between the vanes of the pump and the back plate; I've seen a few with too much clearance.

[67blackcherry]

Originally Posted by 455Grandville

Paul: did you drill the two 1/64"ths holes yet ?!?

Is the waterpump new ? You might want to remove the back plate and see how much clearance is between the vanes of the pump and the back plate; I've seen a few with too much clearance.

No holes - I ordered a high flow stat though.

Brand new Flow Kooler (sp?) aluminum water pump - and I checked the clearances before I installed it. I've got a feeling it's nothing major, just some small little glitch. Now I'm having fuel delivery problems, so she's on the flatbed this morning going back to my shop...

I think something plugged the fuel sender - why else would it have ran FINE for the first 60 miles or so????

[66Mutt]

Given your fuel delivery problem, maybe you were running lean on the lean side causing it to run hot.
Doug

[67blackcherry]

Originally Posted by 66Mutt

Given your fuel delivery problem, maybe you were running lean on the lean side causing it to run hot.
Doug

I don't think so, cause while it was running hot it was running FINE. When it sputtered and died - it was morning, ambient temps high 60's, temp gauge just below 190. The car stalled, I waited about 10 minutes (while some younger dude tried to tell me "does the fuel pump have power to it?"
No - it's a mechanical pump...runs off the cam, you know.
"Have you had it chipped? Maybe there's a problem with the chip"
Uh - no - it's a 1973 Pontiac 455...no chip
and it got more stupid from there - I'm not too mechanically inclinded but he made me look like Ken Brewer or Paul Spotts or Jim Bulter!!!

Anyway, the car started right up and drove for a mile or so, started sputtering again so I pulled over and called AAA.

If there was a problem with the tuning or the carb...it wouldn't have waited 60 miles or so - right???

[66Mutt]

Unless you have verified that no fuel is getting to the carb, don't rule out the electrics. After I bought a '65 Lincoln I replaced the ignition components. Car would drive a while and die. When cooled off it would start back up and run a while before dieing. I suspected fuel since all the ignition was new. Rebuilt the carb and same problem. Turns out it was the condensor on the distributor. Must have been bad out of the box. That is twice those little parts have stranded me.
Doug

[67blackcherry]

Originally Posted by 66Mutt

Unless you have verified that no fuel is getting to the carb, don't rule out the electrics. After I bought a '65 Lincoln I replaced the ignition components. Car would drive a while and die. When cooled off it would start back up and run a while before dieing. I suspected fuel since all the ignition was new. Rebuilt the carb and same problem. Turns out it was the condensor on the distributor. Must have been bad out of the box. That is twice those little parts have stranded me.
Doug

That's why it's going to the shop - hook up a fuel pressure gauge. The gas tank is the only "old" part in the entire equation. Why I didn't drop it and clean it out while I was restoring the engine bay is beyond me...

[steve]

my new motor wanted to run a little hot too. i re-adjusted the idle mixture and moved the sending cable from the temp sensor away from the intake and made sure it was not touching metal...it went away.

[67blackcherry]

Originally Posted by steve

my new motor wanted to run a little hot too. i re-adjusted the idle mixture and moved the sending cable from the temp sensor away from the intake and made sure it was not touching metal...it went away.

It's in the same spot as my other two cars - pass side of the Edelbrock intake manifold.

[lust4speed]

I too would suspect a fan clutch that is not up to the job. My choice for the clutch is the Hayden severe duty 2797 clutch. When the engine water temp hits about 200° it sounds like a helicopter is over you. I see Newport Beach mentioned in your signature, so you can check out Kragen/Parts America that has the clutch on sale for $64.99 - and if you order on line and pick it up in the store there's an additional $5 off bringing the price to $59.99 before tax. Here's the write up on the clutch: http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=176&PTSet=A

I have this clutch on both the '67 A/C car with the 19.5" fan, and the '67 HO car with the 18" fan. For some reason Kragen doesn't list this fan for the 67, but the listing for the 1970 GTO works fine. The less expensive clutches are the same for 1967 and 1970 so I have no idea why they left it out of the '67 parts.

[67blackcherry]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I too would suspect a fan clutch that is not up to the job. My choice for the clutch is the Hayden severe duty 2797 clutch. When the engine water temp hits about 200° it sounds like a helicopter is over you. I see Newport Beach mentioned in your signature, so you can check out Kragen/Parts America that has the clutch on sale for $64.99 - and if you order on line and pick it up in the store there's an additional $5 off bringing the price to $59.99 before tax. Here's the write up on the clutch: http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=176&PTSet=A

I have this clutch on both the '67 A/C car with the 19.5" fan, and the '67 HO car with the 18" fan. For some reason Kragen doesn't list this fan for the 67, but the listing for the 1970 GTO works fine. The less expensive clutches are the same for 1967 and 1970 so I have no idea why they left it out of the '67 parts.

Isn't the Hayden the same unit they sell at Ames? That's the one I got...

[lust4speed]

I believe that the Ames P154GM is the heavy duty fan. Here's Hayden's website with a side view of the different fans: http://www.haydenauto.com/products/f...fan-blades.htm

If you have a new heavy duty fan, any gains switching to the severe duty would probably be marginal.

[67blackcherry]

Yes, I have the Ames HD fan...

I got the new high flow stat, and the carb goes back to the shop tomorrow, so we'll see what happens.

On the plus side - that engine does run SO SMOOTH...just need to get these kinks worked out!!!

[SRR]

Well, What was the outcome to this?

[67blackcherry]

Sorry - someone else answered pointed out the issue in another thread I had. The hose from the radiator is/was higher than the cap on the radiator, and that made a WORLD of difference.

Look for my thread "Does your car run hot? Read this" in the heating and cooling section, there's a link to the other thread.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=580191

My LeMans runs GREAT now, she sits right at 190* - even those hot two weeks we had back in Nov...no problems!