[quicksilver97ta]

Ok back to the harness. The ebay link was/is dead so I never got a chance to look at it but.. I did google H4 and H1 sockets and I see that the H4 is a 3 prong that looks at least similar to the factory sealed beam configuration and the H1 is a single prong.

I understand about the relay but will the factory socket plug into the H4? and how does the H1 ground?

[hectore3]

suscribed

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by quicksilver97ta

Ok back to the harness. The ebay link was/is dead so I never got a chance to look at it but.. I did google H4 and H1 sockets and I see that the H4 is a 3 prong that looks at least similar to the factory sealed beam configuration and the H1 is a single prong.

I understand about the relay but will the factory socket plug into the H4? and how does the H1 ground?

I'll try it this way and see if it works

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H...item4847c662d5

The H1 is a hot and a ground so two prong. Hella include short jumper leads so it fits the SAE/DOT H1 connector on American cars.

Factory will plug right into the H4 low beam.

[61 389-348]

I tried to video the results last night, but using a Droid Razr HD didn't work so well. I don't see anywhere near the amount of light in the vid that I see with my eyes, but you can sure see how it lights the road side signs as if they're on fire

http://youtu.be/xt4lV1XD24k

And I got a youtube copyright notice on J/A's White Rabbit playing in the background and trying to remove the audio track left it scratchy and distorted.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by 61 389-348

I've been told similar regarding the white. The Duplicolor Chrome paint is getting close to chrome and chrome works really fine in the headlights. I also thought that the white reflector could make my taillights look pink in certain lighting conditions. With the Ron Francis Bright Bulbs, I've been told a couple of times that my brake lights were stuck on.

I have the brightest only on high beam out of consideration for oncoming drivers. I have the 80/100 H4s in the low beam housing. However, when the high beams are on it lights both 80s and both 100s in the H4s in the low beam plus the 100 H1s in the high beam.

I would have missed the deer had it not turned around and come back. Nothing was coming so I swerved into the left lane to go behind it thinking it would wisely keep going, but nooooooooo, it would have to turn around. The state highway cop who took the 'accident' report said that's exactly how he ended up with one through his passenger side windshield.

Body shop told me today that it will be first week of October before they can get me in.

A caveat concerning the Ron Francis Bright Bulbs for taillights: last night both taillight bulbs burned out already so that's all of a month that they lasted. Chinese made of course.

I don't know if these were halogen or not, but if they were, I should have wiped finger prints off of them after I put them in the lamp socket.

Giving them the benefit of the doubt, I'll try another pair. They did make the taillights way brighter so it's well worth another try.

[pfilean]

I'm sure these lights are the best answer for lots of light which I appreciate. But I feel the need to relate what I did "back in the day". Had a 64 GTO which liked to run fast at night. So I bought a set of Lucas Flamethrowers (really a spot light beam) to put in my high beam sockets. I used an old Ford starter solenoid for a relay so I wouldn't overload the factory wiring. Remember that back in 64 you couldn't get a lot of what is available now.

I transferred the system to later cars until the Lucas had injested enough water around the bulb to screw up the reflectors. Remember the Lucas were English who were not noted for fantastic electrical systems. But I did have people flash my brights from a mile away. Then I used the wiring to put a set of aircraft landing lights in the high beam sockets. They were sealed beam and fit the 5 3/4 holes. Of course you had to be careful when to light them or you felt you could burn the paint off the trunk in front of you. One time late at night I was driving an interstate and could just pick out one of those big green signs up ahead. I kept an eye on the sign and the odometer and I drove 2 1/2 miles before I passed the sign. Eventually the lights burned out and I trashed the rest of the system. Might have to return to yesteryear and put in what is being suggested here.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by pfilean

I'm sure these lights are the best answer for lots of light which I appreciate. But I feel the need to relate what I did "back in the day". Had a 64 GTO which liked to run fast at night. So I bought a set of Lucas Flamethrowers (really a spot light beam) to put in my high beam sockets. I used an old Ford starter solenoid for a relay so I wouldn't overload the factory wiring. Remember that back in 64 you couldn't get a lot of what is available now.

I transferred the system to later cars until the Lucas had injested enough water around the bulb to screw up the reflectors. Remember the Lucas were English who were not noted for fantastic electrical systems. But I did have people flash my brights from a mile away. Then I used the wiring to put a set of aircraft landing lights in the high beam sockets. They were sealed beam and fit the 5 3/4 holes. Of course you had to be careful when to light them or you felt you could burn the paint off the trunk in front of you. One time late at night I was driving an interstate and could just pick out one of those big green signs up ahead. I kept an eye on the sign and the odometer and I drove 2 1/2 miles before I passed the sign. Eventually the lights burned out and I trashed the rest of the system. Might have to return to yesteryear and put in what is being suggested here.

Yeah, Lucas was another in addition to Cibie and Hella. I've done the thing with aircraft landing lights back in the 60s, but found the beam too unfocused for road use. The system I've put together now seems to work great and the electrical system handles it all fine (with relays of course). Be sure to use a ceramic plug though because the headlamps, especially the low beams with the 80/100s in them, get pretty hot.

Plus, I'm not getting anyone flashing me on low beams so I've got them adjusted pretty well by now.

[deadbug]

I appreciate the tip.

[61 389-348]

Just curious. Did anyone end up trying this? If so, thought?

[Deadhead]

Need to replace my high beams on the 66 wagon. Looked at this and am wondering if that Summit harness linked will work. Confused as to the relay deal. Know what bulbs to use, but not sure on the other. Got some good halogens in for the low-beam already. They are what Scott had in the '66 GP. Had to modify the cup to get them to seat, but an improvement.

[Jim Doran]

Is this the same kit for a little bit less
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-H...-/331051630353


Thanks for a good informative post;

[Jim Doran]

This is great info; thanks;

Low Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...0811/overview/

High Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...5831/overview/

[63gpman]

Kind of funny Jim, but I was thinking about this thread just the other day. I saw the one that you found on ebay and this one also http://www.ebay.com/itm/151152323094...ht_2513wt_1161 They all look to be the same kit. The one I posted is free shipping. The one I found does not state that it is ceramic, so I sent a msg to them 2 days ago w/out any response. I will try again, but from what I can see in the pics, they all look like the same kit.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

Need to replace my high beams on the 66 wagon. Looked at this and am wondering if that Summit harness linked will work. Confused as to the relay deal. Know what bulbs to use, but not sure on the other. Got some good halogens in for the low-beam already. They are what Scott had in the '66 GP. Had to modify the cup to get them to seat, but an improvement.

Man am I getting old. I don't remember doing the Hella setup in the 66. I thought I just did some good halogen DOT legal sealed beams? Better than T3s, but not on the same planet as you get by going the entire way with the Hella H1 and H4 with the 80/100 watt H4s and the 100 watt H1s. And the relays are a must with that kind of current or you will melt your headlamp switch. And true, the headlamp cup must be modified .... the seating slot elongated about 1/4".

And regarding the harness on ebay: it's too short to reach each side in a car with vertical headlamps. There's a version that an ebayer name 57mike or something similar who sells the same thing that's about 6" longer and even that will barely reach. I used the ceramic extension he also sells for it to reach easily.

63 is finally in the body shop now getting the deer damage fixed, but I drove it up until a couple of weeks ago. While on low beam, still not one flash from oncoming cars due to glare, but even my higher end HID German car owner friends find it hilarious what kind of light I can throw way way down the road with the high beams.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by 63gpman

Kind of funny Jim, but I was thinking about this thread just the other day. I saw the one that you found on ebay and this one also http://www.ebay.com/itm/151152323094...ht_2513wt_1161 They all look to be the same kit. The one I posted is free shipping. The one I found does not state that it is ceramic, so I sent a msg to them 2 days ago w/out any response. I will try again, but from what I can see in the pics, they all look like the same kit.

"so I sent a msg to them 2 days ago w/out any response"

Avoid this seller. It's the only negative feedback I've ever left someone on ebay.

This is the one I used .... as his is about 6 to 8 " longer holding it side by side with SunC untClassics one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-HEADLIGHT...8ee361&vxp=mtr

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by Jim Doran

This is great info; thanks;

Low Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...0811/overview/

High Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...5831/overview/

Yep. Make sure it's the NON DOT compliant one as the dispersion pattern is much better. It's the one that's certified in Europe (E-Code) and Canada, but not the USA.

[61 389-348]

Originally Posted by Jim Doran

This is great info; thanks;

Low Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...0811/overview/

High Beam link from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...5831/overview/

Yep. Make sure it's the NON DOT compliant ones as the dispersion pattern is much better. It's the one that's certified in Europe (E-Code) and Canada, but not the USA.

http://youtu.be/xt4lV1XD24k

the vid doesn't do it justice because the amount of light that the phone camera doesn't pick up. It will make roadside signs appear as if they're on fire.

I found a vid somewhere shot with a good camera that is a lot closer to what I see with my eyes. I don't remember what camera he was using but it's much closer

[61 389-348]

Found it

http://youtu.be/bWS30yHBuLQ

this guy has 840 watts of light on the road, shot with a proper camera, and I have 560. Mine aren't quite as obnoxious, but close

[61 389-348]

Thought I'd bump this one to the top since a PYer had some questions about relay and harness.

[Jim Doran]

'61, I see nothing about how you resolved lighting both filaments in the low beam bulb. Did I miss something ? The relay harness on ebay doesn't appear to have this capability.

The simplest way I can see to light all (6) filaments is to move the wire at the dimmer switch so that the low beam filament ( low beams ) is connected to the power coming from the light switch on the dashboard. This way the low beams are on ANY time the light switch is in the on position. Then the dimmer switch would toggle to the high beams setting and connect the high beams to +12v, but the low beams would still be energized due to the low beams being permanently connected to the incoming +12v. Hope I didn't confuse you.

This is essentially what the Ron Francis kit does. I spent 3 hours in garage last night with computer and wiring diagrams to get to the bottom of this.

So how did you get the low beam filaments to stay on when dimmer is in high beam mode ?