[JSchmitz]

For the record, I like the counterbored look better. If I were doing a resto look, I'd just make some sleeves. I wasn't trying to be critical or offend anyone. I think this is an AMAZING achievement worthy of inclusion in the Pontiac history books! I just wanting people's criticisms to be technically accurate!

[tom s]

Mike,intakes that were put on engines that were factory installed were painted.Bathtubs were all over the counter so they were what the installer wanted.The Zajack intake on my 63 Lemans is painted engine color.The converted "mule" intake on my 62 GP is raw.When I get a new intake from this batch it will get painted engine color when I swap them out.Im going to keep the "mule" and a 3D printed intake just because for history sake.Tom

[tom s]

Intake pattern

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by 61-63

Mike like you I have lots of pictures of bathubs plus have restored two real ones plus have handled ?? 50-60 54299/91 and 9770859 inline intakes. Both bathtubs and more than 90% of the inlines were as cast aluminum with no evidence of paint ever having been on them. IMO they look best as bare aluminum. That is just me.

Well, it's awfully hard to argue with that beautiful set-up staring at me from your kitchen!! Now I am leaning toward raw aluminum. These decisions are easy. There is no wrong answer.

Tom, Thanks for the pics of the patterns. Excitement is building !

[tom s]

FYI,over the years of having bathtubs on my cars,most people were sure they were aftermarket non pontiac intakes when left unpainted.Painted one pretty much locked up people opinion it was a stock pontiac part.Tom

[61-63]

I called Dimitri Toth last night and asked him about sd intakes and were they delivered bare or painted from the factory. He said all inline dual quad intakes installed on '62 and '63 SD cars left the factory painted as Tom says. Those intakes were installed on their engines during engine assembly and the whole engine including the intake was painted, then all additional hardware (fuel pump, starter, carburetors, etc., etc.) was installed, the engines were hot tested, and were then installed on the chassis or in the car. None of the bathtub intakes left the factory painted however since all were shipped to either the dealer or to the end user (people like Beswick and Thompson) and none were installed on cars at the factory. He said the LeMans and Tempest SD coupes and station wagons left the factory with 9770859 dual quad setups installed on them.

Dimitri told me he would be glad to discuss the bathtubs with anyone and it was OK to put his number on here. He asked that folks not call him later than 8pm eastern time. His number is 586-536-4391.

[JSchmitz]

There's also a special lock washer that can be used with socket head cap screws in counterbores. It's called a high collar washer. It has a small O.D. to match the smaller head diameter. I figured a lot of people might be unaware of these. FYI

[Tim john]

Be aware of the SHCS lock washers used on aluminum for they will "dig" in the aluminum. They are correct as stated above for this type of application but you may want to consider dropping in a small O D. flat washer first so the lock washer bites into that verses the aluminum.

Tim john---

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Tim john

Be aware of the SHCS lock washers used on aluminum for they will "dig" in the aluminum. They are correct as stated above for this type of application but you may want to consider dropping in a small O D. flat washer first so the lock washer bites into that verses the aluminum.

Tim john---

Very true. True anytime you use lock washers. Especially on AL. I never use lock washers without a flat. With the exception of a hitch ball I guess. Lol!

[darbikrash]

Tom and I fit check a pair of carbs on the production casting top today. Base is the billet piece, top is cast.



Cast in clearance on the rear carb for the linkage looks perfect.



Front carb is tight, we put in several gaskets to raise up the carb enough to see how close it is. We'll add a machined relief in the area outlined in the black marker to allow the carbs to fit with just one gasket and no spacers for best hood clearance. My understanding is the factory had spacers under the carbs to address this. This relief and the counterbored SHCS's will allow the carbs to be used without spacers.

[mgarblik]

Details, details, thanks for checking everything and providing just that little bit of extra clearance. I would LOVE to be able to run mine without the hood scoop. We will see.

[61-63]

Factory sets had 3/8" spacers and if a buyer has a choice I'd prefer mine with no notch machined for the front carb.

Great job Tom and John and kudos to both of you as many have already said.

[tom s]

Question is should we leave them all without and let the buyer clearance as necessary.We are going to try the big top carb on it like a Edelbrock,aftermarket Carter etc.It might only just show up with the 4in top factory AFBs.Will know more Monday.Tom

[tom s]

Guys,if you read back thru the posts you will see where I found the carbs with the 5in top are lower than the 4in top carbs.If someone wants to run the factory style 4in carbs AND the factory style Air Cleaners they will NOT fit under the hood of a 62 Catalina.For people that want the open hood deal the options are kind of unlimited.Tom

[tom s]

Guys,a pair of Carter 9635 625 carbs would make a good choice for the intake.They also make 750 CFMs.They are 5in top carbs so are shorter than the 4in top carbs.Also Chevy 409 progressive linkage will work.A/Cs are a issue.Jon’s idea of using the 69TA screens are a good choice.I used a pair of marine flame arrestors but had to cut about a 1/4in off the rear.I might change to the 69 T/A screens.I have run them in the past.Tom

[Mike Davis]

Tom, out of curiosity do know the height vs a Wenzler Original Tunnel Ram?

[tom s]

Mike,never owned one so no clue.If you have one,PM me some numbers like from the water donut to the top of the carb flange.Tom

[tom s]

I hope everyone that has interest in these intakes check in on the thread from time to time.Although I have tried to prepare all to some issues I want to remind ALL that this intake was designed as a race intake and therefore was not designed for electric choke carbs.The guys that wanted or needed a choke used a manual choke on the rear carb.I have NEVER run a choke on any of the Bathtub intakes from original,Zajack-Johnson repop or Williams repops.Everyone is on their own when it comes to chokes.I hope people that want one and figure out what worked for them will share.I found progressive linkage best for my needs,BUT in race conditions I used solid linkage.When running AFBs make sure they have the secondary air valves and if going to Holleys most seemed to race the 660 center squitters.If I was to use Holleys I would use a pair of 700ish vac secondary carbs with the vac pods that allow you to hook the pods together as the 427 fords did.You will not be able to use center hung floats inline!To me a pair of 427 ford dual quad Holleys would be key if you have to have Holleys.We are working to see if we can get gaskets to go between the top and bottom but I have never used any! I have found a very thin line of Hylomar the best as if necessary to remove the top it cleans with a rag and acetone very easy.We are trying to make everyone aware that this was a over the counter RACE intake and was NEVER factory installed on any Pontiac race cars.Any questions PLEASE ask before you have a intake shipped to you!You can always PM,text or email me with questions beside call my cell.5622430570Im feeling the light at the end of the tunnel is NOT a train!Tom

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by tom s

I hope everyone that has interest in these intakes check in on the thread from time to time.Although I have tried to prepare all to some issues I want to remind ALL that this intake was designed as a race intake and therefore was not designed for electric choke carbs.The guys that wanted or needed a choke used a manual choke on the rear carb.I have NEVER run a choke on any of the Bathtub intakes from original,Zajack-Johnson repop or Williams repops.Everyone is on their own when it comes to chokes.I hope people that want one and figure out what worked for them will share.I found progressive linkage best for my needs,BUT in race conditions I used solid linkage.When running AFBs make sure they have the secondary air valves and if going to Holleys most seemed to race the 660 center squitters.If I was to use Holleys I would use a pair of 700ish vac secondary carbs with the vac pods that allow you to hook the pods together as the 427 fords did.You will not be able to use center hung floats inline!To me a pair of 427 ford dual quad Holleys would be key if you have to have Holleys.We are working to see if we can get gaskets to go between the top and bottom but I have never used any! I have found a very thin line of Hylomar the best as if necessary to remove the top it cleans with a rag and acetone very easy.We are trying to make everyone aware that this was a over the counter RACE intake and was NEVER factory installed on any Pontiac race cars.Any questions PLEASE ask before you have a intake shipped to you!You can always PM,text or email me with questions beside call my cell.5622430570Im feeling the light at the end of the tunnel is NOT a train!Tom

Just going to throw this out there, because it would be easy and not seen once assembled. Since CNC capability is at your immediate disposal, a groove could be machined all the way around the base and a small diameter continuous O-ring cord, (spaghetti seal), could be placed in the groove. No gasket, no sealer needed. That's the way we sealed the heads to the intake on our Billet Ram Air V heads. Clean and simple. Here is a pic of the groove.

[tom s]

IMO,not necessary.Two machined surface with a very thin line of sealant takes care of it.Everyone is free to have what you say done on their own.Tom