[mrrat1]

Thanks for the tips!! The skin would probably be the best way to go but I need the experience for a future project where skins are not an option. This is a 79' Formula 403 car. Atlantis Blue/Nocturn Blue rockers & bumpers, Oyster gut. Bought as a roller with not much left of the interior. It was being used as a race car and sat for some time. Have a 400 & turbo 350 we mocked it up earlier in the build.

[mrrat1]

Been using a Dewalt electric grinder for heavy stuff then rolec's. I will look into the mini belt sander....Thanks Again!

[JUDGE3]

I started with the heavy duty electric grinder routine until I got the dynabrade. the electric grinder seldom comes off the shelf now. thick steel maybe.

the big grinder heats the welds up and warps things. as well as throws a lot more sparks.

[mrrat1]

I'm guessing the doors were gutted when it was turned into a race car. I patched up the holes where the spot welds were drilled out.

[mrrat1]

Finished up the rusted out corner. It's not perfect but it's the best I could do.

[mrrat1]

Bottom of door shell was pretty bad. My patch making skills are improving also.

[mrrat1]

I was a little too aggressive with the weld grinding and had to reweld a few spots and a portion of the seam and added a blow out fix to a thin spot. I was surprised how well it came out. I even match the curved areas between the drain holes.

[dataway]

I assume you are using gas and something like .024 wire? If you play with your settings a bit more you might be able to get the spot welds to lay down more. Can be touchy with thin metal as it requires a bit more heat. If there are any areas where you can get a copper backing bar behind the weld you can turn up the heat some and get flatter welds.

[mrrat1]

I'll try more heat....I have it on the lowest heat setting and wire feed at 4 which is on the fast end of the scale. Thanks Very Much!

[JUDGE3]

I'm no expert, taught myself and learned a lot. probably the hard way no doubt.

maybe an expert will reply if i'm wrong here...…..what I learned was you want as much heat as the metal will take not how little heat you can get by with. as dataway said .024 wire is best also. I tried .030 and wow was much harder to work with.

as your doing, "stitch" welding is 99% the method on a car restoration. may seem obvious to other experts but I learned when stitching it all together after tacking, hitting the previous stitch as you go at just the right angle saves a lot of time and keeps burn thru to a minimum.


burn thru doesn't bother me. gonna happen. just another hole to carefully fill. learning how to keep em to a minimum is the key.


after doing a car, thick metal is a fun piece of cake!

[mrennie]

mrrat1, you are doing an awesome job. Good work!

[dataway]

When filling a lot of gaps like you are I tend to use more heat and less trigger time, really short hits on the trigger, then let it cool to less than red hot before the next one. Time consuming but it works.

Or, you could turn down the wire speed a bit and get similar results to more heat.

[mrrat1]

Thanks for the advice guys...I will try the methods above and will post the results. Really appreciate the critiques! It's the only way to learn when you're learning as you go!

[dataway]

Worth it to spend some time tweaking your settings practicing on some 20 gauge steel. Doesn't always translate to rust thinned body steel, but it will get you close.

[mrrat1]

Last patch on the Firebird door. It wasn't the easiest way to repair the lower door rust but I learned a lot. Using more heat & getting better welds. I started on the rust repair on the radiator support to my 66 2+2. Typical rust at the mounting area to frame.

[mrrat1]

I still have to spot weld the over lapping brace and drill out the mounting hole. This is the easier side...

[dataway]

Looks good, protect it against corrosion enough and it will last for many years.