[Gach]

I like the part about cam shaft wear, so its a good reason why its been #1 race oil sold for years. Just my opinion in why its a waste of time adding Lucas. Hey everyone going to form their own opinion.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Which additive is that? Do other oils have this additive or only VR1??

It does not have any special "sticky" additive. What it has is the sodium detergents had been eliminated and the calcium detergents have been lowered. So it is a detergent oil.
Heavy detergents make it harder for the oil to stick to the camshaft.
That is the reason break in oils do not have any.
The video says Mobil-1 15-50 has the same basic additive package and its a true synthetic while VR1 is mineral.
So you would think its going to last longer and do better in cold weather.
The Lucas additive is sort of controversial. A lot of oil companies will tell you do not add anything to their oil. I know the techs at Total Seal emphatically tell you NO additives. Gave me an example of a racer who had so many additives the mixture turned to gel and the engine blew up.
Shaeffers does not recommend Lucas Stabilizer. They do sell their own Micron Molly additive but they say do not put it their own oil as it will have too much of it. Its made for use in other oils.
Lucas does recommend Lucas Stabilizer in their oils but its not anything to make your oil more slippery. It makes it a lot more sticky and somewhat thicker.
That is why I use it. These old Pontiacs sit for long periods of time and dry start ups are a issue.
A little confusing ? Maybe.
But I know this, Lucas and Prolong have been in everything I drive for decades and I have never even as much spun a rod bearing in my life.
So I know Lucas and Prolong do not hurt your engine.

[Steve C.]

"I am gonna switch to VR1 10-30 over 20-50 "

Which VR1 is involved here ?

VALVOLINE VR1 RACING MOTOR OIL SAE 10W-30

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...il-sae-10w-30#

VALVOLINE VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC RACING MOTOR OIL SAE 10W-30

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...il-sae-10w-30#


.

[Gach]

Valvoline VR-1 number 1…..selling racing oil of ALL Time !! Of ALL TIME !!

Lake Speed jr certified lubricant specialist.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

"I am gonna switch to VR1 10-30 over 20-50 "

Which VR1 is involved here ?

VALVOLINE VR1 RACING MOTOR OIL SAE 10W-30

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...il-sae-10w-30#

VALVOLINE VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC RACING MOTOR OIL SAE 10W-30

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...il-sae-10w-30#


.

Keep your eyes open, because Amazon sells it allot cheaper, in the 5 qt bottles or containers. A bunch of us bought into the big sale. I bought 3 can’t remember how much I paid, still have 2 left. i’m planning on a trip to Alaska I’ll change oil before I leave. Think I’ll take the 1250 dominator off and put 850 cfm on. Bet it will incase my gas mileage and when I race the 850 cfm will give me quicker and better 60 ft’s. What you all think.

[Gach]

The thing I like about the 5 quart container, you don’t have keep doing one at a time, just take cap off and slowly pour it in. Very environmental friendly.

[Gach]

I’ll keep my eyes open for the Amazon sale and post it when it comes up.

[Gach]

They have one going now 20-50 VR-1 racing oil…Valvoline VR1 Racing SAE 20W-50 Motor Oil 5 QT, Case of 3….thats 15 qts. for 107.00 thats what 7.00 qt. Thats like 2.00 qt saving.

[Dragncar]

Speaking of cam wear, in this video on a 1,055,000 mile CAT diesel big rig engine the camshaft showed no wear and CAT warrantied it for another 4 years. This truck had a lifetime of 60,000 mile oil change intervals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwiCE4bUUIY

Million mile Ford 5.4 gasoline engine tear down done at Rankein. They teach racing engine rebuilding. Engine was out of a van, the main bearings stilll had the factory numbers on the wear surfaces done in ink.
After a million + miles.
The plastic cam follower looked new, the bores had .0016 to ..0025 wear. The tech had never seen anything like it.
This is a 1,000,000 mile engine now, amazing.
Shaeffers even makes a 5-50 full synthetic Micron Molly racing oil.
They make 11 different types of racing oils. None of them are the non detergent stuff and you can use them in your drivers.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/9000-racing-oil.html

[Gach]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I was using 5 quarts of VR1 and a quart of Lucas stabilizer but I am gonna run the 10/30 straight and see what happens

See what you started……ask a simple question and get encyclopedia of answers. LOL

[Gach]

I’m guilty as charge…LOL

[64speed]

I’ve heard of the Schaefer oil but was specifically told not to use synthetic oil or it would void my warranty. I called him and told him my pressures and that I wanted to switch to 10w30 and he said that was ok or the VR1 straight 30 weight

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

It does not have any special "sticky" additive. What it has is the sodium detergents had been eliminated and the calcium detergents have been lowered. So it is a detergent oil.
Heavy detergents make it harder for the oil to stick to the camshaft.
That is the reason break in oils do not have any.
The video says Mobil-1 15-50 has the same basic additive package and its a true synthetic while VR1 is mineral.
So you would think its going to last longer and do better in cold weather.
The Lucas additive is sort of controversial. A lot of oil companies will tell you do not add anything to their oil. I know the techs at Total Seal emphatically tell you NO additives. Gave me an example of a racer who had so many additives the mixture turned to gel and the engine blew up.
Shaeffers does not recommend Lucas Stabilizer. They do sell their own Micron Molly additive but they say do not put it their own oil as it will have too much of it. Its made for use in other oils.
Lucas does recommend Lucas Stabilizer in their oils but its not anything to make your oil more slippery. It makes it a lot more sticky and somewhat thicker.
That is why I use it. These old Pontiacs sit for long periods of time and dry start ups are a issue.
A little confusing ? Maybe.
But I know this, Lucas and Prolong have been in everything I drive for decades and I have never even as much spun a rod bearing in my life.
So I know Lucas and Prolong do not hurt your engine.

Yes I know there is no special additive that makes VR1 stick to engine parts... was just seeing what kind of reply that would get. VR1 has a full race verion of the VR1 they say is not for street use, think its the black bottles, the other blue label VR1 that most people use does have detergents and is OK for street use, it does not stick to parts any more than normal oils do.

Also based on some VOA tests Ive seen VR1 isnt all that high on zddp either, around 1100ppm, many name brand regular oils are at ~1000ppm zddp... but as Ive mentioned many times and a recent posted article on oils supports, todays oils have other modern anti wear additives, use better base stock oil & advanced modern zddp that last longer, so crazy high levels of zddp are not needed in modern oils like they were in older oils.

Shaeffers is excellent oil, they have synthetic & conventional oils, they are not very popular since its not sold at most auto stores or other places like walmart but gets great reviews and has good additives. I had a bunch of their moly EP additive, sold some on here & kept a few for myself, their additive & I think some of their oils have a newer anti wear additive called "antimony" that no others oils Ive seen use, supposed to be part of what makes up their special "Penetro" & micron-moly additive pack. Contrary to the name it actually has very little moly but the combo of additives are supposed to be very good.

[Steve C.]

VALVOLINE VR1 FULL SYNTHETIC RACING MOTOR OIL

See the note here regarding street use......

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...d-48df3793b338



.

[Formulajones]

Yes Steve, that part about cat converters was a lot of talk several years ago. Not sure how recent that article is and if it still applies but the belief was that 10-30 won't have as aggressive of additives as the 20-50 does because the thought was that consumers would buy this for their dailys too (likely with cats) and they would most likely go for the 10-30 over the 20-50 so supposedly Valvoline reduced the additive package in the lighter weight.

Don't know if that's the case anymore or not. I haven't seen an oil analysis on either weight recently to compare, but that would be the tell all. I'd for sure want to know before switching weights, if I were using the stuff.

[Steve C.]

That product information sheet was downloaded from this product link:

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/col...il-sae-10w-30#


Use for both on and off the track.



.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I’ve heard of the Schaefer oil but was specifically told not to use synthetic oil or it would void my warranty. I called him and told him my pressures and that I wanted to switch to 10w30 and he said that was ok or the VR1 straight 30 weight

Shaeffers Never heard of it. Also agree with him on not using synthetic.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by Gach

Valvoline VR-1 number 1…..selling racing oil of ALL Time !! Of ALL TIME !!

Lake Speed jr certified lubricant specialist.

OF ALL TIME!! Disclaimer tho, it doesn’t have additive that sticks to the parts…LOL

[Steve C.]

Possibly the confusion of an additive that sticks to the parts is related to this statement ....

"One main advantage of synthetics is its robust boundary layer, which allows it to cling heartily to engine components when the engine is off. With vintage and high-performance automobiles, this can often be for lengthy periods of time. This protective boundary layer reduces the metal-to-metal contact during the critical seconds after engine startup."


.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Possibly the confusion of an additive that sticks to the parts is related to this statement ....

"One main advantage of synthetics is its robust boundary layer, which allows it to cling heartily to engine components when the engine is off. With vintage and high-performance automobiles, this can often be for lengthy periods of time. This protective boundary layer reduces the metal-to-metal contact during the critical seconds after engine startup."


.

Yes thank you for a better description, of my statement.