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#1161
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I haven't found any yet, but Dan67 over in Texas has found a place in Houston that rebuilds them all the time. PM him for more info.
Charles |
#1162
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Thanks,I sent a PM , we'll see, I have built many water pumps, just need a place to buy parts, then I could set my own depth on the impeller, I am somewhat scared to move it on the shaft ,I am afraid I will get it to unseat the seal
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#1163
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When you dismantle a pump, if you get the numbers off the seal and bearings, they're readily available. Most manufacturers have numbers which are similar and they're easy to cross-reference.
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Rich The real democratic American idea is, not that every man shall be on a level with every other man, but that every man shall have liberty to be what God made him, without hindrance. Henry Ward Beecher "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money." Margaret Thatcher |
#1164
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If all you want to do is pull the impellor back, try this. I just tried it for grins.
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#1165
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i am going to remove the cast impeller and see if I can get any numbers ... I just gotta try, I when is the next contact with Cardone ??
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#1166
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Quote:
Ron |
#1167
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See above. It's not that tight a fit. |
#1168
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Waiting on word as we speak! They are probably still eating lunch. Charles |
#1169
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FYI
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#1170
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All interested parties need to read this thread!
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=659536 |
#1171
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So it is ok to pull the impeller to get the clearance need between it and the plate? That would be great too if you can support the shaft so you don't ruin the bearing, if you need to tap the impeller back on to adjust the gap.
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#1172
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Sure, why not.
Just have to remember that any pull or push force is restricted to just the shaft and the impeller. |
#1173
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If there are any of you guys on here with Olds and Buicks, can you let us know if you're having water pump/overheating problems too. I'm only guessing, but aren't your pumps are similar to the Pontiac pumps?
We never even thought if any of you were having problems, and I appologise for that. If we had known we could have brought that up too while we were at Cardone. If you are we can still bring it up to them even at a future time. We might also need some parts to show them, if you can spare them.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#1174
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Quote:
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Big Willie and Tomika's Street Racers STUGOTS-SoCal Adding more power since 1971 |
#1175
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Gary & I just spoke with the head of pump marketing at Cardone and she did say that the effort is on an active burner and they will see it to completion and let us know how the progress is going.
So, there you go guys, just hang in there. Good pumps are coming. Charles |
#1176
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Quote:
While I can understand, how long does it take someone to find one for me and one for Gary?? Of course not as long and you and your painter pal!! Also someone was wanting a place for water pump parts and I never got an email. They can email me at dmascheck@sbcglobal.net The place that can rebuild them is in Houston, TX. |
#1177
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New Cardone Pumps
Cudos to the folks who worked with Cardone to get some new pumps.... Do you know if there is there any word on the new Cardone pumps?
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration Last edited by getmygoat; 06-10-2011 at 12:30 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to getmygoat For This Useful Post: | ||
#1178
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Here's something to add to the overheating issue fix. It's not related to the water pump but still affects the over heating problem.
If you get a new correct impellered pump and it still overheats. Make sure you check the vacuum can on the distributor. They can and will go bad. I tried several good thermostats I have on hand, replaced hoses, flushed the complete cooling system, and put in new antifreeze again. Shortly after I got my new pump installed I had the dreaded overheating pop up again. Haven't said anything until I found out what the actual cause was. Well I know now. My vacuum can crapped out on me. I took it off and as Charles said, blow into the hose and see if you can hear any air going thru it. That was it, the diaphram was shot so there was no vacuum advance. I bought a new one.... $9.00... got it back in and all is good again. Car starts better, runs better, and is now cooling as it should. Sometimes it's the simplest thing that buggers up the works. And the vacuum advance can is one we hardly ever think of.... I know I didn't.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#1179
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Adding something to Gary's post.
The overheating he WAS having was when he was sitting at a delayed stop in traffic after it was up to running temp. On the road it was doing OK, right Gary? Charles |
#1180
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One word.... Yes. And when you shut the engine off heat soak was even greater than it is now. Now it's not all that bad.... maybe 10 to 15 degrees above normal is the max.
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
The Following User Says Thank You to GT182 For This Useful Post: | ||
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