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  #141  
Old 05-03-2024, 11:34 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Drivetrain back in car need one more suggestion

Hopefully Mr Barron sees this this ! My engine is back in and the mechanical work is complete
Except replacing the exhaust system I obviously want to keep it factory style .. so just a few questions
1, the current pipe ends are not chrome tipped and are curved down and not straight back is this
Correct?
2, any suggestions on a correct style muffler brand ?
3, should it have a cross or x pipe? Here’s some pics minus the air cleaner the current exhaust system runs straight back separately..PS … notice the tag registration date!!!

Thank you
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  #142  
Old 05-04-2024, 09:34 AM
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Simple answer for all your exhaust questions.

Gardner Exhaust.

Plus they furnish the closest resonator that is used on all 1966 GTO’s.
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A).
2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option.
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  #143  
Old 05-04-2024, 02:04 PM
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Default Gardner

Best in the business.
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  #144  
Old 05-04-2024, 04:05 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Ok do you have a link or company info
Thank you for the reply..

  #145  
Old 05-04-2024, 04:25 PM
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Here ya go... https://www.gardnerexhaust.com/

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  #146  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:33 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Looking good under the hood Tedd !

There was an optional chrome tip exhaust for 66GTO that came out past the back bumper.
Yours didn't come with it but I don't think anyone would object to it on the car.
Will just be a matter of your preference .
Its rarely on PHS documents - but i see them very often on cars that didn't come with them.

The original mufflers were unequal lengths like shown by 428ho4spd's photo of the Gardner system.
Definitely agree Gardner is the top choice for your particular car.
Not all cars are as worthy.

Don't remember if we mentioned before but your radiator also looks to be the original 4core Harrison.

  #147  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:37 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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The wheel weights on the outside is probably & actually period correct for 1966.
I would prefer them only on the inside - or touched up neatly with black paint so they don't grab attention.

Its a personal judgment call overall

  #148  
Old 05-04-2024, 07:45 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Hose clamps look new but the wrong type.
Original Repops on all the coolant hoses would be a small investment that pays off in appearance.

The new clamps are an adverse effect to all your other detail work.

And congrats on the new wheels and redlines . ! .

  #149  
Old 06-15-2024, 02:32 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Finally On the road!! Need help with last items.

Hello,,
Finally car is on the road and running excellent
Still a few items to discuss but this one is IMPORTANT.. I have the original radiator installed and it was cleaned and cored however I notice the car isn’t over heating to where It’s boiling over BUT it runs hot when just running g around the neighborhood without lots of airflow. The engine is new so I want to keep it running cool. I am having the fan clutch changed but I want to install a new more efficient radiator.. of course I will keep my orginal radiator CAN someone please recommend a replacement radiator.. need advise asap it’s summer in south Fla and the temp is always on the 90s 😡💥.. I have a few other issues to discuss later .. thank you ..

  #150  
Old 06-15-2024, 02:44 PM
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GPG38AS is what I have in my 1964 convertible Le Mans with factory air conditioning. I’m using a 1966 style radiator with the drivers side upper inlet hose.

This is the Cold Case Super Duty aluminum radiator with twin 1-1/4” tubes, their other radiators have twin 1” tubes.

Best to call and speak with one of their sales people and be sure you get the proper one, the part number I listed above is for an automatic transmission car. Be sure to ask about the Super Duty radiator with the 1-1/4” tubes.

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/pr...8aAtjaEALw_wcB
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  #151  
Old 06-15-2024, 09:58 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Verify if the builder used 160* or 180* or 195* thermostat.
I always use a 160* in all my old cars , and drill a 1/8" hole in the outer rim of the tstat as a "burp" relief to prevent any trapped air when refilling the cooling system.

And be sure to run 93 octane , preferably with some lead additive.

  #152  
Old 06-15-2024, 11:04 PM
RedDirtRoad RedDirtRoad is offline
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The 1/8th inch hole is key
I do that as well.
Pontiacs run hot so like Baron says always use a 160

  #153  
Old 06-16-2024, 10:15 AM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Understood…

Ok … I will definitely pass this on to the builder
About the radiator and also I find the 160 t stat
With the hole will also help.. the new fan clutch he ordered is one that will stay engaged at all times instead of heat activated.. for a 70,000 mile
Car with no ps or pb it surprisingly drives well!
As soon as I get over this hump as I mentioned there’s a few other issues… factory radio inop,
Wiper motors sluggish, and the biggy is the top.
Will get into detail later.. happy Father’s Day and thank you guys for all the advice .. it’s been a long
Expensive journey but I do see all the excitement with this old goat!! It’s pretty cool driving around. 👍

  #154  
Old Yesterday, 12:04 AM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Some pics and update

Confirmed the car has a 160 t stat change the old fan clutch to new style hd supposedly doesn’t need to be activated by temp. Will test tomorrow . Car was polished and cleaned up looks great for original never painted 58 yr old paint .. need to install headlight trim rings . Few items remain
Windshield motor is very very sluggish can I have it rebuilt or does it matter if u just get a replacement ? It is the original motor.
2, radio doesn’t work can this be repaired? There’s an old 80s aftermarket one on there now.
Floor mounted
3, power top doesn’t even make a noise any suggestions? I want to be careful because it is the original white top. And that’s it for now thanks again posting a couple of pics .. OH !!! Please take a look at how it sitting Mecanic says
Needs new rear springs??????? Thoughts ??
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  #155  
Old Yesterday, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd930 View Post
Confirmed the car has a 160 t stat change the old fan clutch to new style hd supposedly doesn’t need to be activated by temp. Will test tomorrow . Car was polished and cleaned up looks great for original never painted 58 yr old paint .. need to install headlight trim rings . Few items remain
Windshield motor is very very sluggish can I have it rebuilt or does it matter if u just get a replacement ? It is the original motor.
2, radio doesn’t work can this be repaired? There’s an old 80s aftermarket one on there now.
Floor mounted
3, power top doesn’t even make a noise any suggestions? I want to be careful because it is the original white top. And that’s it for now thanks again posting a couple of pics .. OH !!! Please take a look at how it sitting Mecanic says
Needs new rear springs??????? Thoughts ??
Car sits right to me. Any higher.. it'll look like a field car.

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  #156  
Old Yesterday, 07:15 AM
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Car looks fantastic!


Quote:
power top doesn’t even make a noise any suggestions?
I would 1st check for voltage at the switch?
I think, (haven't looked) that the power comes from fuse panel with it plugged into a slot?
With the aftermarket stuff some things may have been moved/disconnected etc?


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  #157  
Old Yesterday, 07:56 AM
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Car looks fantastic. Hope you don't mind that I fixed your pic orientation...





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  #158  
Old Yesterday, 07:30 PM
gtospieg gtospieg is offline
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I'm sure there's someone out there that rebuilds wiper motors....I would keep the original. As far as how it sits...Personally, I would raise it a LITTLE bit, my preference. If you look at factory pics., that's about the way they sat from the dealers lot.

  #159  
Old Yesterday, 09:36 PM
Tedd930 Tedd930 is offline
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Default Wipers

Thanks for the picture fix not sure why that happens to me.. the wipers just needed exercised
There 100% … as far as the top it seams to go down very easily manually. I don’t even know if it’s a power top?? 🤔The last thing major thing is the radiator issue I feel the 58 yr old style radiator in the 90 degree fl heat needs to be updated even though it was reconditioned.
The car isn’t boiling over but it certainly doesn’t like stop and go traffic during the heat of the day.
There’s a couple ounces of coolant when I park
Through the over flow line . Going to call the place recommended in the thread for a new aluminum larger radiator . I do enjoy the car
It drives excellent with all new front shocks and bushings and ballpoints as well as the u joints and such .. however it’s up in the air if I am going to sell it . It really is a land yacht!!)
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  #160  
Old Yesterday, 10:00 PM
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Power top was a standard feature on the GTO and Le Mans, a manual top was standard on the Tempest custom. Manual top used large springs instead of hydraulic cylinders to counter the weight of the top mechanism, they’re easy to see but the chances of a GTO having them is s close to nil.

Probably in need of a pair of top cylinders and lines, at the very least the reservoir in the pump needs to be filled and cycled to bleed out any air. Fluid puddles (usually automatic transmission fluid sometimes brake fluid depending) under the back seat are a sure sign of a leaking top cylinder.

If you’re getting power to the top motor/pump you should be able to hear it running even without the top operating. Top switch may be bad or any number of things.

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